Hello folks! First time on the “newer”side of FTE. Been over on the super duty and dent sides for a few years now.

I recent bought my son his first rig. 2012 F150 3.5 EcoBoost. Darn good shape for a $4k pickup. Timing was jumped when I hauled it home. Did the timing set and it ran great for about 10 days before it sent a valve through the piston. New long block on order, but I’ve already started tearing the old one out. Going out the front and not taking the body off.

So if anyone has any tips or tricks, I’m all ears.

Having said that, can anyone help me with the 2 wires in the valley between the heads? I think they are bonding wire but doesn’t make much sense to me as they plug into the harness. I am not even sure how to reinstall these with out pulling the heads of the new long block, because I sure don’t want to do that.

Thanks for the help, I will post more progress as it comes along!



Bonding wires?

 

Knock sensors.

 

When installing Knock sensors on your replacement motor follow the torque spec.
To tight or loose will cause issues.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Been wrenching a long time, never dealt with knock sensors.

 

Todays engines, those sensors are probably the most important ones on the engine, variable cam timing requires them. Custom tuners use them as well.

 

Progress made. Engines out. Managed to not remove the radiator or entire front support. Evidence shows that a couple of trouble making valves decided not to play nice. Scattered the piston and rod. Had some good help tho. Man there’s a lot of crap on these new rigs.

Christmas list:
2 post lift
15 mm socket collection
over the hood belly creeper
Ibuprofen

Waiting delivery of long block and turbos.

 

That was a project. It is obvious that engineers nowadays have never worked as mechanics and mechanics are worth their shop rate. The complexity of the design and incorporation of computer controls have taken all the joy out of turning wrenches. That and not leaving enough room to fart let alone get your hand on a bell housing bolt.

All whining aside, it’s done and running great other than the old permanent P054a/c codes are still present. Replaced every sensor and solenoid from the air filter to the down stream O2 sensors. Cam position sensors, crank position sensors, pressure, temp… all of them. We have driven it about 300 miles now still can’t dump those codes. Fuel trims are still stuck at default and mileage has averaged around 11 mpg on about 50/50 city hwy.

I will try the PCM dump truck on the battery tonight, but the battery was out of the truck for about 2 months. I figured the PCm would have cleared in that time, but those two codes were present before I cranked on first start. So if any folks have additional tips other than the Mackuloco (who are awesome BTW) I’m all ears.

 

If you still have that code before and after I would be looking real close at the pin connector and wire running to that sensor.
P.S. Nice work on engine replacement

 

Bwep, thanks for the kudos. I spent most of yesterday chasing wires, doing the PCM reset, mapping and drive cycles. The P054 codes still persist, even immediately after I do the clearing procedure, before engine start. We are chasing p0420/30 codes as well. With those we have been clearing them has them pop up, hoping the cats blow out in the mean time. (Vehicle was purchased from an elderly gentlemen, I doubt he was doing a teenage tune up very often, mostly puttering around in town all day) When we do that it resets the drive cycle which I think the exhaust cam sensors cycle doesn’t get completed.

So we are going to keep running it for a few days and see how that goes. My live data does show slightly less than ideal voltage on the down stream sensors and the baro is constant, so according the Mackuloco fellas they shouldn’t be too bad. Next week we will scope then and then pull and flush if need be