Replaceing O2 sensors
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2002
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From: NE
Replaceing O2 sensors
I am in the process of removing and replacing my O2 sensors on my 01, 150 5.4 and have ran into problems with removing the old sensors because of rust. I have used Kroil to try to break down the rust but to no avail. I have a O2 socket but the way everything is situated it's hard to get leverage to break the rust loose. I've thought about using heat but I really don't care to. Does anyone have any ideas that I might not of thought of to get the rust to release? Thanks in advance.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
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From: WA
I used a MAPP gas torch and a big Crescent wrench on mine. Heat helps. Doesn't have to be a flame it can be hot air.
The rust is deep in the threads, protected. Penetrants are probably not reaching it. Good luck.
The rust is deep in the threads, protected. Penetrants are probably not reaching it. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7,128
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
23 years that sensor has been heated/cooled how many thousands of times and you want to know how to remove it? Ok well, I've been a professional auto tech for 40+ years and the usual way is to replace the entire exhaust manifold as there was usually some idiot before that cranked it in sideways or didn't use anti-seize on the threads.
Penetrating oil OVERNIGHT!! Let it soak in then shock it with an air hammer on one of it's flat sides. It'll pop loose with ease and you can go on with your day.
Penetrating oil OVERNIGHT!! Let it soak in then shock it with an air hammer on one of it's flat sides. It'll pop loose with ease and you can go on with your day.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,519
Likes: 2,654
From: Near Salt Lake City
That stuff "Freeze Off " works wonders too
But heat is your friend
And Mapp gas is a friend indeed
Even an Oxy Acetylene rig is your friend
Hell, I use a rosebud on an Oxy rig, if I get pissed off enough
It's better / quicker than stripping out the threads and having to weld a new bung into the pipe
But heat is your friend
And Mapp gas is a friend indeed
Even an Oxy Acetylene rig is your friend
Hell, I use a rosebud on an Oxy rig, if I get pissed off enough
It's better / quicker than stripping out the threads and having to weld a new bung into the pipe
Trailering
Joined: Jul 2016
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Just changed out one of mine.
Used Kroil over two days to soak in- then used a small air hammer with a forked end which was placed over the box wrench handle.
That vibration broke it loose right off the bat. Did it a few more times- moving it a bit more each time, then more Kroil and I easily spun it out by hand after a few revolutions with wrench despite it being on for 20 years.
No heat needed.
Used Kroil over two days to soak in- then used a small air hammer with a forked end which was placed over the box wrench handle.
That vibration broke it loose right off the bat. Did it a few more times- moving it a bit more each time, then more Kroil and I easily spun it out by hand after a few revolutions with wrench despite it being on for 20 years.
No heat needed.
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2002
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From: NE
Well a update on my project on R&R my O2 sensors. The back two were no problem but the front two are another story, the passenger side which I thought would be the hard one took about a day and a half as I had to cut it in two and after a few choice words I finally got it to break free and out and replaced but the drivers side was another story.
I used every type of oil there was, heat several times, air hammer, cut in two to try and get a better grip on it but to no avail, so I cut the two manifold bolts holding the tail pipe and converter and was able to work it out from underneath. Once I got the pipe out I was able to heat the O2 sensor and flange up and with a impact wrench I GOT IT OU. When I went to replace the sensor it did not want to start as I think the threads might of gotten flattened out some. Does anyone know what the size and thread space tap I would need to clean out the hole for the O2 sensor? Any help appreciated.
I used every type of oil there was, heat several times, air hammer, cut in two to try and get a better grip on it but to no avail, so I cut the two manifold bolts holding the tail pipe and converter and was able to work it out from underneath. Once I got the pipe out I was able to heat the O2 sensor and flange up and with a impact wrench I GOT IT OU. When I went to replace the sensor it did not want to start as I think the threads might of gotten flattened out some. Does anyone know what the size and thread space tap I would need to clean out the hole for the O2 sensor? Any help appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
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From: WA
Well, that's a bummer. You can grind a notch in the threaded portion of one of the old ones, clean up the threads, and run it in to the hole as a thread chaser. Might work.
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Cross-Country
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From: NE
Well I'm done, I got a thread cleaner for the O2 female size 18mm x 1.5 and cleaned out the hole and it went right in. Took two small C clamps one on each side to connect the Y pipe to the manifold and we're in business. Back on the road. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2002
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From: NE
Given that the studs from the manifold were frozen in the holes and also rusted almost into where I couldn't get any nut on them or off I just decided to cut the manifold studs off and try a "C" clamp to hold them on. I had also thought about using a small Vice Grip "C" clamp. We'll see how it works.
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