seeing all the trouble y'all are going through,
I am totally convinced again,
that installing a Sump was the proper, and most expedient thing to do.

 

Ahh, I see if now I missed that part of your earlier post. My bad. That would solve the compression seal issues for sure.

 

100’s of brass compression fittings in this application currently and not a single reported failure.

Ive been back in the tank after 10yrs and +100k miles and everything looked the way I left it.

Some of our friends here overthink stuff. K.I.S.S. for the win. Same reason I keep the stock quick connect fittings. They work well and for a looooooong time.

 

AN was invented to K.I.S.S for airplanes ya know. Then JIC was invented to K.I.S.Ser by lowering tolerance requirements.

 

Thanks everyone I appreciate all the help and input.



So I bought a new unused leaf spring for cheap on the local classifieds.. it’s a Dorman though haha. Price was right. Think I’ll buy another on to match it and roll the dice. Bad idea?

I can’t reuse the u bolts but I can reuse the big bolts on the hangers correct? Torque specs?

 

As long as there isn't signs of wear and on the bolts they should be fine. The torque spec looks like 185lb/ft for the hanger, shackles, and u bolts. I'll throw up a link so you can double check me.

https://www.superdutypsd.com/torque_specifications.php

Do you have plenty of clamps handy for breaking down the spring packs? A press is even better/safer but a large vice can be helpful too. Just go slow, there's a lot of energy stored in those leaves.

 

Not correct.

There are aspects and thresholds of bolt stretch, fatigue, and thread stress that cannot be seen with the naked eye.

If an OEM recommends new fasteners, then there are risks that can be avoided by following the OEM recommendations.

Risk are not certainties, which means that if someone doesn't follow the recommendation, it does not necessarily mean that a failure will happen.

But since the manufacturer identified that a failure could happen, why take on the risk of re-using spring eyelet bolts when Ford strongly cautions, at the beginning of the leaf spring service guidance, to use new fasteners...

When I added 1/2" thick sister plates to my front spring hangars to support a front receiver hitch, I needed to pull out the front spring eyelet bolt.

I purchased new spring eyelet bolts from Ford, at a ridiculously high price per bolt. The new bolts came with thread locking compound already baked onto the bolt threads. The new nuts were prevailing torque flange nuts. Both OEM nuts and bolts matched the diameter, property class, as well as the corrosion protection plating of the original bolts, but I ordered bolts for an F-53 / F-59 stripped chassis rather than an F-550, because the stripped chassis is specified with 4" wide leaf springs, which provided the extra bolt length to capture the 1/2" plate that I was adding.

To be honest, I had to buy new bolts three times, because I later changed the design, which was a second cycle of disassembly, and then I bought an extra set to have on hand, in case I decided to change the design again (I haven't yet), and wanted to make sure that the bolts were still available and affordable (bought years earlier at lower price) should I make a change.

The amount of torque required to undo the nuts on the spring eyelet bolts (at least on an F-550) was sufficient to make the bolt too hot to touch. It laughed at my pneumatic impact gun. Simply laughed and went nowhere. I needed a 4 foot long cheater pipe, lots of time, and quite a bit of a work out to get those spring eyelet bolts free.

Once freed, I would never expect that same bolt and nut combination to have the same retentive power and resistance to unloosening as it did when it was virgin installed new. Since the truck will remain exposed to the exact same operating conditions, cyclic vibrations, twisting gyrations, etc before and after the installation, I want the same retention power, resistance to loosening, and fastener integrity (one that hasn't been previously stretched from being brought to the specified torque) as the truck was originally built with. Following Ford's recommendation to install new fasteners facilitates that benefit.

 

Or a big and/or better impact wrench. I've always been impressed with the power and service life of Aircat pneumatic tools. Prices are reasonable as well. They're not Harbor Freight cheap but they're not Harbor Freight "cheap" either

 

I've been reusing leaf spring bolts and u bolts for 20 years now and never had a failure. I would reuse them both if it were me.

 

Does your name have anything to do with the condition of the truck? Rot Box would make me say replace all of the bolts.

 

Rot Box refers to my old 79 Toyota Hilux…. Rust bucket for sure—every square inch of it haha. My PSD is fairly rust free for being a Utah truck.

 

Those first gen 4x4, state side at least, have the best look of any of the Toyota pickups in my opinion. Pretty good old trucks for what they were too. They'll go anywhere but fast. I always wanted to drop a chevy 4.3 v6 and 700r4 in one for a play toy.

 

Great little trucks! That was when Toyota spent more on engineering than anything else. Only rust can kill them.

 

Oh ya! I wish I still had it I put a million miles on it with 35’s and a healthy (weak but healthy lol) 20R all over the western states.

I’ll have to dig up some better pics.

 

Got one of the springs swapped! Still waiting on the other one. I’m gonna grab some new ubolts today. Heavy! and I did it by myself which was kinda dumb lol.

Man this was a lot easier with the bed off!