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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

7.3L no crank

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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 09:35 PM
  #1  
Goldylocks333's Avatar
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7.3L no crank

Hey guys, hoping to get some help to get a 7.3 running that I picked up.

It currently will not even attempt to crank when I turn the key. It has two new batteries in it.

Here's what I know:
No wait to start light
Battery gauge on dash is isn't moving at all despite two new batteries.
It has a new starter.
Other electronics like head lights and cab lights are working.
I jumped the clutch position sensor.
The truck has sat for sometime.

I purchased this truck as a donor for a ZF5 swap. The transmission and swap related parts have all been removed. When I bought the truck it was not running, but I got it for a cheap price and only wanted it for the transmission and related components so I didn't mind. Now I'm ready to sell it, but know I can get a little extra for it if I can get the motor running.

If you kind souls could point me in the right direction of troubleshooting that would be great. I'm assuming the problem is electrical and I have no idea where to start.


Battery gauge pegged at zero.

Top of engine.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 12:30 AM
  #2  
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Did you try to move it over with a breaker bar? I cant imagine its seized up but it may help just to move things a bit in there. On my truck the WTS light will turn off but the battery gauge stays pegged to the left until the GPs are actually done firing.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 10:49 AM
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remove bowl heater plug and then look for blown fuse 22 IIRC
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 12:09 PM
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How does it have a starter mounted if the trans and adapter have been removed?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 01:02 PM
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I've still got the adapter on the engine for the starter!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 01:15 PM
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So you bolted that up yourself with different fasteners?

Just go jump the solenoid
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 07:00 PM
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So I jumped the starter with the key in the run position. She cranks, but still no start.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 07:11 PM
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Okay. So it cranks, that is what you wanted. This is a parts truck. Who knows what else is missing to cause a no start. There is a diag sticky atop, knock yourself out. If you were clever, you would just perform a compression test to check how the eight holes perform. If low, ****can it after pulling whatever is worth anything.

I mean, it has a piece of exhaust tubing for a partial air intake and no downpipe...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 07:20 PM
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Haha no down pipe is from me removing the transmission. Had to get it out of the way. I still have it. I also laughed at the exhaust pipe for an intake.

When I bought it was a complete truck, no parts missing. It had just sat for a long time. I'd like to get it actually firing and get it running to sell. I'll check out the diag sticky!

Realizing it's been sitting for God knows how long, just realized she might not have fuel in the lines. Going to fill the fuel bowl and see what happens...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 07:20 PM
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From: NT, See you in the
Originally Posted by Goldylocks333
Hey guys, hoping to get some help to get a 7.3 running that I picked up.

It currently will not even attempt to crank when I turn the key. It has two new batteries in it.

Here's what I know:
No wait to start light
Battery gauge on dash is isn't moving at all despite two new batteries.
It has a new starter.
Other electronics like head lights and cab lights are working.
I jumped the clutch position sensor.
The truck has sat for sometime.

I purchased this truck as a donor for a ZF5 swap. The transmission and swap related parts have all been removed. When I bought the truck it was not running, but I got it for a cheap price and only wanted it for the transmission and related components so I didn't mind. Now I'm ready to sell it, but know I can get a little extra for it if I can get the motor running.

If you kind souls could point me in the right direction of troubleshooting that would be great. I'm assuming the problem is electrical and I have no idea where to start.


Battery gauge pegged at zero.

Top of engine.
You stated you only wanted the ZF5 and related accessories for a swap, who knows what else is wrong with the long block since you bought it in a non-running configuration. Since it's a parts truck, I would part the block as is and not waste more time and energy into trying to get it to start. What are you realistically trying to accomplish by getting it to fire? just because it can/will fire doesn't mean compression isn't jacked on the cylinders, doesn't mean the heads aren't toast, doesn't mean the main bearings are in good shape.

Honestly as long as the block/heads aren't cracked it should be fine as a swap engine destined for the machine shop for someone on here looking for a short block to rebuild. I would investigate and market it as such instead of trying to get it to fire to prove something that doesn't mean much when you take into account the total health of the engine.

Not trying to be mean, but not sure what your expectations are here with this block since you bought it as a parts truck and snagged what you wanted from it already.....
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 07:34 PM
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Hell, if core support is not rotted it is worth than that clapped engine complete. Seriously. Do not chop it up pulling it.

Too bad you are in TX, fellow member here looking for solid and loose core for his build on the Megacab Centurion.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2024 | 08:22 PM
  #12  
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Haha fellas I know I must sound crazy for wanting to get a parts truck running. I get it.

I'd still like to give it the "old college try" as they say before getting rid of it.

Sure, who knows, it could be toast on the inside.

But I figure it's worth a few hours of my time and troubleshooting to see what I can do.

Been checking out the diagnosis sticky. Fuse 22 is good. But I have no power to it or to the red wire on the PCM. I tried swapping the relays but still no power 🤔
 
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