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So that tube from the exh. manifold dose not go up to the EGR plate?
There is 2 ways of going with this.
1st (and I think the hardest) is to remove the tubes from the fittings and fittings from the plate & manifold and screw in plugs.Think pipe plug worked but been a while since I did this.To get the fittings out I used a large socket and impac gun, came right out.
2nd (and the easy way) is to cut the tube leaving enough where you can pinch the end closed and bend it over to make sure it is sealed.
Dave ----
What about this big one? Just plug or remove it as well? And these lines coming off this smog box
?) the small one goes back to the tank.
Last edited by mikelduh; Aug 12, 2024 at 08:12 PM.
What would be the difference between using the fat wire from the 3 wire splice as Jim suggested, rather than the blue and white?
The fat wire, leaving the 3 to 1 splice shown in your photo in post 9, is a good power source.
Also, as you stated all your power wires are spliced together in the engine harness, this would also be a good power source, as it is multiple hot wires from different sources.
You said the coil power wire was downstream of this splice. You have taken the time to unrap the black tape and see what you have. Not everyone does this. This stuff is not shown in wiring diagrams, you have to take it apart and look at it.
So if it was my truck, I would just follow Franklin2 advice (post 3) and use the wire on the original coil positive connector.
To be fair, the instructions that come with your new distributor might say it MUST be feed with a larger gauge wire... larger then what is currently feeding the coil. Most people feel the need to follow the instructions.
A lot of people want you to use a 30 amp relay, and then take power directly from the battery. This gives you a clean strong power source and keeps the current flow out of the original wiring. If I had a 1970 truck with a point system, I would use a relay.
The original square coil in your truck had full voltage applied and is similar the to coil in your new distributor. So no real changes.
Opinions vary, you will see lots of stuff on the web sites saying you need a 30 amp supply source. Which some feel they want, and thus add a relay.
Good luck, Jim
What about this big one? Just plug or remove it as well? And these lines coming off this smog box I see 2 things going on here. First the EGR valve needs to be bolts back in place. Some say make a block off plate from a tin can me I just dont hook a vacuum hose to it so it will not open. Second the large metal tube going back to the cat. get a hose to fit the end, a old spark plug and 2 clamps. put the plug on the hose the hose on the tube and clamp it in place = done! That is the fuel tank vapor recovery tank. The small line goes back to the fuel tank(s) and the large to the carb float bowel and to vacuum to pull the vapors into the motor to burn them. It can stay just the way it is. I guess you are pointing to the metal tube going back to the cat. See my first post with hose / old spark plug and clamps.
?) the small one goes back to the tank.
I just saw something in this picture that might cause problems down the road.
Right in the center you have a battery cable going to the starter in a holder that is good
But you have another cable under that hold down bolt, where dose that go to? It should go to the top starter bolt.
But the problem, where dose the battery ground cable go to from the battery? It should also go to this hold down bolt also.
If the battery ground goes to the motor some where then you need to run a cable from there to the frame ans the frame is not grounded ATM.
Factory ground was from battery to frame hold down bolt to the top starter bolt as 1 long cable but you can use 2 to make it happen.
Dave ----
The fat wire, leaving the 3 to 1 splice shown in your photo in post 9, is a good power source.
Also, as you stated all your power wires are spliced together in the engine harness, this would also be a good power source, as it is multiple hot wires from different sources.
You said the coil power wire was downstream of this splice. You have taken the time to unrap the black tape and see what you have. Not everyone does this. This stuff is not shown in wiring diagrams, you have to take it apart and look at it.
So if it was my truck, I would just follow Franklin2 advice (post 3) and use the wire on the original coil positive connector.
To be fair, the instructions that come with your new distributor might say it MUST be feed with a larger gauge wire... larger then what is currently feeding the coil. Most people feel the need to follow the instructions.
A lot of people want you to use a 30 amp relay, and then take power directly from the battery. This gives you a clean strong power source and keeps the current flow out of the original wiring. If I had a 1970 truck with a point system, I would use a relay.
The original square coil in your truck had full voltage applied and is similar the to coil in your new distributor. So no real changes.
Opinions vary, you will see lots of stuff on the web sites saying you need a 30 amp supply source. Which some feel they want, and thus add a relay.
Good luck, Jim
Thanks for explaining. I’ll clean it up and just use the original b/w coil wire.
Are the plug wires sorted during the timing process? Or should I reference where the vacuum advance is as where the plug on the old one was? Probably a silly question.
Are the plug wires sorted during the timing process? Or should I reference where the vacuum advance is as where the plug on the old one was? Probably a silly question.
Looking at my engine photo in post 6, don't do that!
My oil filter serves 2 purposes, the second one being a hard stop for ignition timing adjustments.
You are getting ahead of yourself, it really doesn't matter which position is #1, as long as they are in correct firing order.
Also, the end of the pipe coming from the CAT has a "one way check valve" at the end closest to the engine. It's the round large thing near the open end. If it's working as it should, it won't leak. You can put this off until you get it running.
Jim
Swapping dist is easy.
Pull #1 plug, hold finger OVER plug hole and have someone tap the key till you fell your finger getting pushed off.
Look and the timing mark and turn the motor so the mark is at TDC.
Pop the dist. cap and note where the rotor is pointing. Also note where the TFI wires are on the dist.body like in your picture below.
Disconnect the wires to the TFI and pull the non-feed back dist. out.
On the new dist. turn the rotor so it points to where the old dist was pointing.
Also have the vacuum advance unit in the same area as the TFI / wires were so you will had room to turn the dist. to ad just the timing.
When you drop the dist. in the rotor will turn a little adjust where the rotor points so when all the way in it points to where the old dist. rotor was pointing for #1
Just rest the cap in place and see if the rotor is pointing to 1 of the plug towers.
If not can you turn the dist. body so it dose? If not pull the dist. and turn the rotor 1 way or the other so when you drop it in the rotor will point to a plug tower and have room to turn the dist. to adjust the timing.
When you install the hold down bolt do not tighten it all the way so you cant turn the dist. just snug it so it takes a little power to turn it as you will need to turn it to start and time it.
Install the plug in motor and put plug wires in cap following the firing order.
Wire power to dist. and you should be able to start the motor.
If it dose not start right away try turning the dist. a little in each direction and see if it will start.
If you get a back fire out the carb you did not get motor on TDC before you pulled the old dist. out so you are 180* off.
You can either go back through setting motor to TDC and pulling the dist. so itis now on TDC also or just rewire the plug wires on the cap and try again.
Dave ----
I just saw something in this picture that might cause problems down the road.
Right in the center you have a battery cable going to the starter in a holder that is good
But you have another cable under that hold down bolt, where dose that go to? It should go to the top starter bolt.
But the problem, where dose the battery ground cable go to from the battery? It should also go to this hold down bolt also.
If the battery ground goes to the motor some where then you need to run a cable from there to the frame ans the frame is not grounded ATM.
Factory ground was from battery to frame hold down bolt to the top starter bolt as 1 long cable but you can use 2 to make it happen.
Dave ----
This is the one that goes through the conduit. The other is the ground side of the battery to the starter and the one on the lug goes from starter to chassis.
This is the one that goes through the conduit. The other is the ground side of the battery to the starter and the one on the lug goes from starter to chassis.
Oh ok so ground from battery to starter then up to that bolt on the frame
That works as I did not know how the battery side was run.
Factory did it from battery to frame then to starter LOL
Dave ----
Are the plug wires sorted during the timing process? Or should I reference where the vacuum advance is as where the plug on the old one was? Probably a silly question.
Have you pulled the old distributor out yet? If you haven't, yes you can use it to organize the new distributor. It did run before correct? And you have not messed with the original distributor? Those are the rules on this method, it ran before and you have not pulled the old one out yet. If you have pulled it already and are lost, then do the thumb over #1 sparkplug hole like the other Dave suggested. That is starting over and finding #1 on the engine TDC.
1. If you still have the original distributor in there and the engine was running, then mark the sparkplug wires and the distributor tower to what cylinder goes where. I think you said you did this already.
2. Then pull the original cap off. Look to see where the rotor is pointing. What tower is it pointing to? Is it inbetween two towers? Make a note of which cylinder towers the rotor is pointing to.
3. Pull the old distributor. Watch the rotor as the distributor comes out. See it turn? You will need to make note of this, the new distributor is going to turn back when you set it in position.
4. Get the new distributor. Position the vacuum advance out in the open area away from the engine so you have plenty of room to twist the distributor back and forth. Set the new distributor in place. Watch the rotor turn a little bit as it goes in. It may stop short of going all the way in. In that case, pull the distributor up, turn the rotor so it's on another tooth down inside the engine, and try again. Try to keep the rotor in the same general area as it was before. Like generally pointing to the fender, or the firewall or the radiator, where ever it was on the old distributor. This is not super important, just so it's in the neighborhood. If the distributor still won't go in try a tooth the other way. It should finally go in.
5. Once you get the distributor all the way in, again twist the distributor around a little bit to make sure the vacuum advance has plenty of room. Then pull the distributor cap on the new distributor. Check to see where the rotor is pointing. Point it to the tower or towers just like the old distributor. You will now take a marker and name the tower or towers just like the old distributor. You will also number the towers all around the new distributor just like the old.
6. Plug the proper cylinder wires into the new distributor according to how they are marked. The rotor should be pointing to the same cylinder or cylinders that was before on the old distributor. Snug the lockdown bolt down so the distributor just moves with some pressure from your hand. Then hook the hot wire up and see if it will start. Have a timing light ready and shine the light and grab the distributor and tweak it till it's around 10 BTDC.
Have you pulled the old distributor out yet? If you haven't, yes you can use it to organize the new distributor. It did run before correct? And you have not messed with the original distributor? Those are the rules on this method, it ran before and you have not pulled the old one out yet. If you have pulled it already and are lost, then do the thumb over #1 sparkplug hole like the other Dave suggested. That is starting over and finding #1 on the engine TDC.
1. If you still have the original distributor in there and the engine was running, then mark the sparkplug wires and the distributor tower to what cylinder goes where. I think you said you did this already.
2. Then pull the original cap off. Look to see where the rotor is pointing. What tower is it pointing to? Is it inbetween two towers? Make a note of which cylinder towers the rotor is pointing to.
3. Pull the old distributor. Watch the rotor as the distributor comes out. See it turn? You will need to make note of this, the new distributor is going to turn back when you set it in position.
4. Get the new distributor. Position the vacuum advance out in the open area away from the engine so you have plenty of room to twist the distributor back and forth. Set the new distributor in place. Watch the rotor turn a little bit as it goes in. It may stop short of going all the way in. In that case, pull the distributor up, turn the rotor so it's on another tooth down inside the engine, and try again. Try to keep the rotor in the same general area as it was before. Like generally pointing to the fender, or the firewall or the radiator, where ever it was on the old distributor. This is not super important, just so it's in the neighborhood. If the distributor still won't go in try a tooth the other way. It should finally go in.
5. Once you get the distributor all the way in, again twist the distributor around a little bit to make sure the vacuum advance has plenty of room. Then pull the distributor cap on the new distributor. Check to see where the rotor is pointing. Point it to the tower or towers just like the old distributor. You will now take a marker and name the tower or towers just like the old distributor. You will also number the towers all around the new distributor just like the old.
6. Plug the proper cylinder wires into the new distributor according to how they are marked. The rotor should be pointing to the same cylinder or cylinders that was before on the old distributor. Snug the lockdown bolt down so the distributor just moves with some pressure from your hand. Then hook the hot wire up and see if it will start. Have a timing light ready and shine the light and grab the distributor and tweak it till it's around 10 BTDC.
” The other Dave “ lol . Thanks for the explanation, I did have it marked but pulled it without looking. So I did the thumb method. I’m gonna post an update here shortly.
I have the blue and white from the old ign coil wires as my new power. Single green for the tac. Plug wires numbered. Everything plated and capped. Old plug for dist is just hangin. Next step is setting timing? I haven’t found a mark but there is a notch with white paint on it.
Do you see a pointer on the top side that you can shine the light on? Leave the distributor just a tiny bit loose so you can move it, and try to start it. If it tries but kicks back, tweak the dist one way a little bit. If it gets worse try it the other way.
P.S. I just thought about it. If you did the thumb method and then turned it to TDC #1, that white mark if it was any good would be near the pointer. This needs more investigation.
