I am going to hardwire a dash cam into my 2024 F-350's interior fuse box. I would like to just use one of the "Not Used" slots. Are those powered so I could just connect to the output side? I would rather not use a fuse-tap.

 

That is exactly what I did when I hardwired my Rove dashcam recently into my 2022 F-250 Lariat. On a '22, fuse 27 is listed as a spare 30A and fuse 35 is listed as a spare 5A. I found that fuse 27 was always hot and fuse 35 was switched (hot when ignition is in Run). I used fuses rated for my dashcam since the fuse box doesn't really care what amperage fuse you insert in any given slot. Some of the other "spare" fuses were also powered. I made a list for future reference in case I need to find power for some other toy that I can't live without that doesn't need to go through an upfitter switch.

There are several threads here on FTE that talk about dash cams and wiring them in various ways if you are looking for additional inspiration.

 

Use a wire from the PTO pigtail that is down by the passenger kick plate. I forget the wire color but one provides 12v with key on. The problem with the fuse panel is you can’t fit a add a fuse pigtail and put the cover on its too tight. If you find a low profile one maybe but you would have to notch the cover. Guess you could leave the cover off if you wanted.

 

My new dashcam is on the amazon truck today, going to look into hardwiring it.
I believe if you want the dashcam to be on watch while parked overnight, you need a constant hot source, at least I think that is what the one I bought said in it's info.
We'll see what it is when I get a look at it.

 

Mine was delivered 90 minutes ago, and is already installed. Except for the hardwired power. I am using the cigarette lighter for a while.

 

Yeah, right as I was posting my comment the amazon driver was dropping mine on the front porch.
I am going on a run this weekend, and am going to just plug mine in as well, especially since I don't have the hardwire kit yet.
And, mine has the rear camera, and I have to figure out where is the best bet for mounting the camera.
It also has an option to use the rear camera as a backup camera, wired to trigger off the reverse lights, but may just wire that to one of my upfitter switches.
That would just be an extra rear cam.

 

Well, routing the plugin cable was considerably easier than I thought.
The front of the headliner has a nice gap to stuff the cable into, then tucked it into the rubber seal along the passenger door opening.

 

That is the way mine is. Although while it is parked in my drive I turn the camera off. I don't drive daily and I would go out to the power down message on the truck screen. I leave it on any other time though so it will record bumps, thumps and passerbys.

bob

 

I just ran down to Whataburger and got a freebie Birthday Cake shake, and I can tell the sunvisor and dashcam will be an interference issue at times, didn't even think about that.
Maybe I'll hang the camera off the bottom of the mirror, will look at it tomorrow before I leave.

 

I put my camera in about the same position as yours, just on the passenger side of the mirror. Over there is way out of my field of vision and is much less of a distraction. It's not like I need to be watching the camera to drive anyway. I'm already looking that way!



This spot lets me easily slide the camera backwards out of its mount if I need to do anything with it and it gives a nice centerline view for the video while not blocking any of the truck's cameras or sensors on the mirror.

 

OK, today I hardwired my dash cam. I ran the wire into the headliner, over to the passenger side pillar, down inside the pillar to the floorboard, and out close to the interior fuse box. I used fuse location #13, 7.5 amp (spare) and a fuse tap. I did have to notch out the lid to run the wire out of the fuse box, and also to close the lid over the fuse box. The fuse tap was too high for the lid to go on otherwise. With the fiberboard cover in place, I am not worried about stuff getting into the fuse box through those notches.

(I used the passenger side pillar because the interior fuse box is on the passenger side, right below the glove box.)

 

Hey Folks, I just picked up a new '24 a couple of months ago and I'm working on a dashcam. I went with a 'Navy Crest Q7' model from Amazon that has both front and rear cameras. I was able to get both cameras mounted and wired up in barely an hour, but I'm having trouble with the power supply. First it took a search to find the fuse box since it was moved from the position in my prior '22 model, and I am having trouble finding anything that isn't 'always on'. This camera takes both an Accessory enabled power, and a constant power (it uses a time-lapse mode when the truck is off).

In my install I ran from the driver's side rear corner, up the driver's side to the center, then the power runs across the front and down the passenger side front pillar to the fuse box. This is definitely no room for the 'add-a-fuse' taps with the lid, so I'm just leaving mine off. It's interesting that Ford chose to put the new fuse box under the fiberboard with three push plugs. kind of difficult to get into if you burn a fuse out.



I will say the fuse box is positioned horribly for me as I am not that young anymore, and even after highly contorting my body, it's still hard to see the box and actually work with the fuses. I'm hoping I won't ever have to get back into there!

Anyway, if you have a 23/24 model and can identify the exact fuses you used for both (acc/constant), it would be appreciated!

 

I don't have a 24' but maybe if you go through the fuse listing in the owner manual you might be able to identify likely candidates. Then you and your meter can verify the ones you think will work. Also, keep in mind that some fuses may appear to be "always on" just because the door is open. You'll need to leave the door open long enough for the truck to go to sleep which will turn off all the interior lights (check the door lock and window switches) and remove those other circuits from being powered.

Edit: in my post #2 I listed the fuses I used in a 22 and the OP @RbrtLls in post #11 mentions one of the fuses he used on a 24

 

Thanks @Lariat Driver for your door hint, I think that may have created some confusion for me. When I went back, I got my area set up and waited for a bit before testing the fuses. I found a full list of the panel fuses online and for my '24 F350 Lariat, I chose to use these fuse numbers.

• #13 (7.5A spare) - switched source
• #25 (5A spare) - constant source

The camera I installed uses both to achieve auto-on while I drive and goes into time-lapse mode when I am parked. I ran a quick test yesterday and it's all working correctly now.

 

I’m getting ready o install my dash cam and USB to my 24 F350 XL. First is the layout the same for all models ? Second I need to add a USB to my RubiGrid® 2023+ Ford Super Duty Dash Mount what is a good fuse to tap?