Charger problems
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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From: Chicago IL
Charger problems
Okay fellas let’s talk calmly about my truck(94 350 cclb 460) before I lose my mind and burn it to the ground. So in the last month I’ve replaced the starter, starter solenoid, alternator, alternator pig tail, the battery and the ignition tumbler…after all this the truck won’t charge the battery. Now I’m at a loss idk if I have something wired backwards or if I blew a fuse link. I turn the truck on and 2 things happen if the regulator pig tail is plugged in the truck makes a god awful squeal like if the starter hasn’t disengaged. But if I unplug the pigtail the truck starts up and there’s no battery light plug it all back in and the light is on….i for the life of me can’t find my chiltons manual to look up any of the wiring and thus I am on the verge of burning all of it to the ground in spite. And help would be appreciated
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,955
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From: Greater Austin, Texas
You would rather burn your truck down than spend the money for another manual after spending all those $$$ already on parts?
What was the problem you were trying to fix in the first place?
What was the problem you were trying to fix in the first place?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
as for the problem is after installing a new alternator the truck won’t charge the battery and I can’t figure out why.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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From: Chicago IL
I have not how would one go about testing that? The new alternator doesn’t have a removable main plug just the regulator off the back
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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What voltage are you getting at the battery with the truck running?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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From: Chicago IL
12.4 at start up but within a few minutes it’s at 11.8
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Hotshot
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
there should be a lug on the back of the alternator by itself, a single plug, and a double wire plug that goes into the voltage regulator.
the single lug should have at least 14 volts with engine running.
the single lug should have at least 14 volts with engine running.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,315
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From: Near Salt Lake City
You have battery voltage at the back of the alternator at the big wire?
Are you sure the fuse link between the alternator and battery is good
I agree, even new out of the box sometimes alternators are no good or I have seen oil on the brushes from assembly make them not work
Smack the alternator with the back of a screwdriver and see if it wants to play just in case
1994 style, those brushes should last forever, but some oil on the commutator can make them not work at all for a minute
Are you sure the fuse link between the alternator and battery is good
I agree, even new out of the box sometimes alternators are no good or I have seen oil on the brushes from assembly make them not work
Smack the alternator with the back of a screwdriver and see if it wants to play just in case
1994 style, those brushes should last forever, but some oil on the commutator can make them not work at all for a minute
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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From: Chicago IL
Okay so I think I’ve fixed it. After stair at your photo I ran everything I had like this The red is a dual plug off the positive battery terminal. green is the regulator whip off the alternator. Yellow is I’m assuming the starter but am unsure. Blue is the small red starter lead off the back of the starter. Truck fired up and only gave me a slight grind of the starter but after a few cycles it seems to be gone. If anyone can look at this and tell me I got it right or if my truck is gonna burn?
Thanks in advance
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 785
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I believe that is how my 1994 5.0 is wired. I still have not figured out the point of that solenoid on the fender. You are correct, both sides of the solenoid are tied together and feed 1 wire back to the battery, if memory serves. The power wire to the starter is in no way involved with the circuit. I often wonder if it was put there just because "Ford pickups have always had a solenoid on the inner fender"?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,922
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From: Mojave, Ca
Okay so I think I’ve fixed it. After stair at your photo I ran everything I had like this The red is a dual plug off the positive battery terminal. green is the regulator whip off the alternator. Yellow is I’m assuming the starter but am unsure. Blue is the small red starter lead off the back of the starter. Truck fired up and only gave me a slight grind of the starter but after a few cycles it seems to be gone. If anyone can look at this and tell me I got it right or if my truck is gonna burn?
Thanks in advance
The large photo-right terminal has a plastic molded y-wire that goes to the battery positive terminal. Known as "B+".
The double yellow wires go to the power distribution box in the engine compartment. This wire feeds power to the ignition switch and accessories.
The green wire goes to your alternator and alternator-sense.
The small top terminal is the start-command wire from your ignition switch.
The large photo-left terminal has a the other leg of the plastic molded y-wire wire that goes down to your starter.
Besides that, the wiring looks correct.
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