Really nice site here, glad i found it.

OK, let me give you guys some background and then ask my questions.

Early this past spring i purchased an 85 F250 4WD XLT Lariot. 460 had been replaced from one out of an E350, C6 and i'm not sure what transfer case i have. (Alum and finned) I'v never heard this run...but it does turn over. Purchased truck for $150.

The body has your normal salt belt rust....doors,bed and some cab corner rot.

So, i'v been looking for a new body, found and bought this on ebay. Hadnt been able to find anything reasonable locally.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:US:6

Seller advises me that this cab and front clip are on an older non 4x4 frame. Doesnt matter as long as the factory body mounts havent been tampered with. Also claims the rear is a Dana70, would this rear axle be a bolt in for my 85?

So, if i were to replace my factory Dana61 rear axle with the dual wheel 70 would i also need a front axle from a dually? By watching/reading HP Dana 60 threads it seems there are different hubs for Dual and single wheel and i'm assuming my turning radius would be terrible without the proper front axle?


Also, in line with a dual wheel conversion...are the beds identical with exception of the flares? Could i just attach the flares to a single wheel bed?

I'v also been told that the engine compartment wiring harness should be the same for 460's vs 351 or 302 as long as they are carb'd? I dont know what motor the new cab etc had originally.

Plan is to swap the body to my frame since the donor has the older frame.

Is it difficult to adapt power window's in a non power door? How about the rest of the dash and interior? I'd love to throw in a set of Captains chairs and console from a van...doable?

I'll be using this truck to tow my offroad Jeep,house projects etc. I have a hightop cap to put on and plan to use the bed for some overnight camping.

Any input to get me better informed before i start tearing things down would be greatly appreciated. Links to others write up's etc?

I apologise for the long post...i'll hold off on more questions till later!

Thanks in advance.. John

 

I try to help since I have an '85 F-250HD sans XLT.

Any truck body part from 80-86 with fit. actually, a lot of parts from 87-96 will fit as well, whether 4wd or not.

If your truck is all original, it should have a Borg-Warner 1345, the rear axle should be a Sterling 10.25" (Ford started using Sterlings in 1985). The front is either a Dana44 or Dana50.

About the Dana70, it might. I think some of them will. I think it depends on if they originally a bed or if they came from the factory incomplete (ie dump/flat bed).

The harness from the cab should be that same unless it has an EEC-IV, a 460 won't have EEC-IV. The only different on the EEC-IV is that is has additional wires for sensors etc. you can just disconnect it and put on the old ignition module.

You won't need a new front axle; however, you will have carry two spares. Dualls have offset hubs in the front so they can run the offset rear dually wheels.

The only things different on power doors are the regulators.

pretty much anything else is possible, if you are good in fabication

 

1) Power windows; the harness for the power windows unplugs or plugs into the fusebox, the power windows and locks can be moved to new doors, ford even has the rivet mount holes pre-drilled.
if you swap cabs, the old harness can be unplugged and moved into the new cab fairly easily

as to your axles, the only thing that matters is having the same gear ratio front and rear...

 

Appreciate the input guys!

I really believe i have a Dana rear, sure looks Dana. IIRC i believe i'v read the Sterling use started in late 85? Guess getting the BOM would positively ID it.

The IFS Dana center would be marked 44 or 50?

Would a solid axle (since i have leaves) be a direct bolt in? I'v read the IFS can contribute to abnormal tire wear...or would worn components in the IFS account for that?

Is this Borg-Warner TC worth keeping, or would a swap to something heavier be beneficial? This vehicle wont see offroad unless i need it to rescue my Jeep.

Anyone know of an online FSM for this vintage?

Thanks again...

 

I guess the easiest way to tell is if your full floating hubs (if you have full floating hubs) stick out real far (like 5-6"), you have a Sterling. If they only stick out like 2-3", its a Dana.

My F-250 was built after like 3/85, so I can't say for sure.

The easiest way to tell if you have a 44 or a 50, is to look at the u-joints on the stub shaft. It the ujoints are externally retained (the have one of those funny clips like the ones on your driveshaft, its a Dana 50. If it doesn't have any clips on the outside (it looks kinda flat, and is not indented), that means the c-clip is on the inside, and it is a Dana44HD.

Any Dana 60 solid axle (called "monobeam" by ford) from a 85.5-97 F-350 4x4 will fit. (one from a DRW, will fit as well, except they will have the dually hubs for the offset wheels, probably the one you want if you are doing a dually swap).

They are a direct swap, just get your parts from a donor f350 (Track bar, track bar mount, maybe springs if you want a little more lift, spring pads, steering parts, and you need either a f-150 or F-350 pitarm arm. I'd get the f350 if possible. The f-250 is different due to leaf spring IFS).

The Borg-Warner TC is pretty beefy and light. The only problem with them is the ATF pump will sping in the housing and will wreck the whole T-case. I believe ford has a fix kit for it, you could probably just fix it by putting in a self-tapping sheet metal screw. The T-Case also have a nice 2.72:1 low range, which is good for pulling.

 

You will need to make sure you have a dually rear and not a cab & chassis rear. If I remember correctly, the cab and chassis frame is narrower than the single rear wheel and dually. I think there is a difference in widths from flange to flange on the rear ends and on spring perches. I am not sure of this but I seem to remember something about it for some reason. Anyway, it may be something you want to look into before you go through alot of extra work.

 

horton: you are right... I believe the chassis frame gets narrow after the cab.. I mention that above.. Best way is to measure spring perches..