Trouble Installing Bilstein Front Shock
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 851
Is your truck lowered?
When compressing a shock, a new shock, can take a lot. My last shocks, took all my body weight to compress it.
I think they were Monroe shocks, and they came compressed with a zap strap type connector that held them compressed.
When compressing a shock, a new shock, can take a lot. My last shocks, took all my body weight to compress it.
I think they were Monroe shocks, and they came compressed with a zap strap type connector that held them compressed.
Tuned
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 301
Likes: 149
You probably don't want to but pull it out and set it on the ground and give it one good press using gravity. It will certainly go down. That should prime it and give you the ability to try it. Much easier than pushing up on the bottom with little if anything to lift.
Alternatively, a pry bar or cats paw may help you get it into place
Alternatively, a pry bar or cats paw may help you get it into place
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
It's not lowered. I will try compressing it again this weekend. It's raining like heck right now. I did try to compress it but it didnt move. I will try again or some other measure to compress. There is not zap strap on the front shocsk, However, the rears do have the strap but I need to get the fronts on first.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
I was able to figure a way to compress it and hold it there for a period of time. I have no clue how my full body weight pressing down on the ground barely moved it but this method allowed for almost a full compression. Used at emp dog leash that you get from the vet and was able to hold it compressed. I will try to film putting installing it but not sure I can capture that .
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
One down.. one more front shock to go. I’ll start on the rear once I get the rotors and calipers back on , etc.. I’ll try to film how used the leash to compress the shock while up under the wheel well
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 145
Likes: 37
Your shock/spring mounts look like they're in good shape. Did you replace those?
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
One down.. one more front shock to go. I’ll start on the rear once I get the rotors and calipers back on , etc.. I’ll try to film how used the leash to compress the shock while up under the wheel well
Last edited by OBDgurl; Aug 3, 2024 at 02:37 PM. Reason: need to remmove a dup post ? no clue how
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
. I didn’t change the shock mount. While it was rusty with a little bit of flake I hit them with a wire brush& some naval jelly. I’m planning on changing the springs at some point but I’m trying to do a little bit at a time. My initial project was to change the rotors & calipers.. lol .I did see a set of decent lower shock mounts on Bronco Graveyard for I think $28 if your mounts are too far gone. The shock /spring tower looks to have been replaced before or just never deterioted . I noticed the lower shock mounts being flakey when I initially thought I might need to remove mine to fit the shock . ( not an endorsement ;-) though I have orded a few hard to find items there.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 145
Likes: 37
. I didn’t change the shock mount. While it was rusty with a little bit of flake I hit them with a wire brush& some naval jelly. I’m planning on changing the springs at some point but I’m trying to do a little bit at a time. My initial project was to change the rotors & calipers.. lol .I did see a set of decent shock mounts on Bronco Graveyard for I think $28 if your mounts are too far gone. I noticed them when I initially thought I might need to remove mine to fit the shock . ( not an endorsement ;-) though I have orded a few hard to find items there.
Yea. I ask because I have my shocks and coil springs sitting in my garage. I'm thinking about springing for the mounts but frankly, I'm too discouraged by not only grinding out the 6 rivets, but also disconnecting the break lines and having to bleed them too.
Perhaps I will do the same, just clean them off and hit them with rust reformer for now. There's no pitting so I should be ok in the short term.
I will let you know how it goes getting the nut off inside the spring, I bought a 1 1/8 socket specifically for it.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
I will mention that one of the ways ( thru trail & error) to keep the new brake hoses from leaking was to to put some plastic wrap over the fill hole & install the cap over it to create a vacuum in addition to hold the brake pedal at half pressure ( with the fuse removed ) so as to not drain the battery or blow my tail lights. I did a lot of Googling and brake fluid clean up to land on this successful method.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
Yea. I ask because I have my shocks and coil springs sitting in my garage. I'm thinking about springing for the mounts but frankly, I'm too discouraged by not only grinding out the 6 rivets, but also disconnecting the break lines and having to bleed them too.
Perhaps I will do the same, just clean them off and hit them with rust reformer for now. There's no pitting so I should be ok in the short term.
I will let you know how it goes getting the nut off inside the spring, I bought a 1 1/8 socket specifically for it.
Perhaps I will do the same, just clean them off and hit them with rust reformer for now. There's no pitting so I should be ok in the short term.
I will let you know how it goes getting the nut off inside the spring, I bought a 1 1/8 socket specifically for it.
Press pedal to about half way.
Create a vac/suction with plastic like this.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 454
Likes: 51
I probably wouldn't have thought of something like a leash/strap, it has more contact surface area. I thought there were some shock manufacturers in the past five (5) to ten (10) years (and decades ago) that shipped their new shocks already compressed with wire, I wonder if that's no longer the case?
I did use the technique of using the body weight to compress the shock itself down, only that I used 18 gauge wire (picture hanging section of Home Depot) to secure the shock at the reduced length. After I made a loop of the wire, I had to twist the ends of wire about three-four times to secure the wire. After I put in one bolt with each shock to put it in position, (without having torqued it) I just had to cut the wire when I was ready to guide the shock into position for the second bolt.
I did use the technique of using the body weight to compress the shock itself down, only that I used 18 gauge wire (picture hanging section of Home Depot) to secure the shock at the reduced length. After I made a loop of the wire, I had to twist the ends of wire about three-four times to secure the wire. After I put in one bolt with each shock to put it in position, (without having torqued it) I just had to cut the wire when I was ready to guide the shock into position for the second bolt.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
From: GA
My front shocks didnt come with a compressed wire. The vet clinic leash worked & I was lucky enough to have one strong enough & with a strong enough metal loop at the end ( though I'm sure the method would work with a tied loop as well if the metal loop looks subpar). Here is a video of how I compressed it the 1st time at the kitchen counter to see how it would work.
I was able to compress it again while under the wheel well while the shock was set in the lower shock mount & then feeding the top of the shock (with the leash still attached for continued compressing) thru the top shock hole. Once released, the leash came out easily as there was plenty of room for removal. I will try to get a video of doing what I just described when I do the other side tomorrow. It wasn't that difficult but I did have to hold the pressure . I'm thinking on the passenager side it might be more difficult to pull down with my left ( non-dominant arm) ...not sure yet. We will see. I'm also going to use a 2nd leash in case the 1st one has been weakened.
I was able to compress it again while under the wheel well while the shock was set in the lower shock mount & then feeding the top of the shock (with the leash still attached for continued compressing) thru the top shock hole. Once released, the leash came out easily as there was plenty of room for removal. I will try to get a video of doing what I just described when I do the other side tomorrow. It wasn't that difficult but I did have to hold the pressure . I'm thinking on the passenager side it might be more difficult to pull down with my left ( non-dominant arm) ...not sure yet. We will see. I'm also going to use a 2nd leash in case the 1st one has been weakened.