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From my experience I love the stroker motor. It has alot more grunt down low as it should so you can run a bigger (higher rpm) cam and not loose as much ~1500-3000 rpm and resulting a higher average hp and more area under the hp and torque curve.
I've got a 331 stroker - Isky 480 lift /108 lobe sep angle. Stock iron heads, enlarges valves to 1.9/1.6 - Edlebrock air gap high rise/ dual plane intack, 600 CFM - 1 5/8 headers in a 4700 lbs 73 F100. C4 tranny with 3.25 rear. Not exceptionally fast but great pull up to about 5Gs which is really all I wanted out of it. $2000 is about all I payed for parts and machining from stock 302. The mustand Depot has great stroker kits or individual components for the price.
nice set up 951... but i would have tossed the stock heads .maybe gone with gt40 iron they're better and cheaper... somewhere around $500 a complete set (jegs/summit)...also go with a rebuilt AOD and 3.50/3.73 LS rear.
Termyt00 - true, I may do that on my next F100. This was a learning project truck for my 16 year old since the schools don't teach any real skills. It's so bad here that the wood shop and auto bays are now full of art easels and ... We got the truck from a old farmer for 50 bucks, spilled out a little over 4 grand and did everything we could ourselves off the frame. It's not perfect by any means but it was fun, he loves it, and I don't have to by some craker box for him. He's got 4700 lbs of good detroit iron around him. I did upgrade the brakes and rotors to disc and put in some upgraded seat belts.
Originally posted by Ravin Hey i am working on a 55 efie and have a 302 hooked to a aod. I would like to get the full potential out of the little engine. My question is does the $2000 plus price tag of stroking a 302 to a 347 worth the extra horse power? Hot Rod magazine had a pretty good article on stroking a 302 and hp results were about 390. How much can you expect out a strongly built 302?
Here's the perspective of the owner of a Z28 w/ 396 Stroker running low-mid-11's in my daily driver:
When I was looking for a mean GM F-Body street machine, I had the choice of buying built 350's or a stroked 350. My son has a built LT-1 350 with ~350rwhp peak and runs low 12's in the 1/4 mile. I bought the same year Z28 as him, but with a 396 stroker. The torque difference is unbelievable and although mine dynos on a Mustang dyno at 347rwhp, it puts out that hp over a wide rpm band. Long strokes give better torque but you need to lower the upper rpm limit. Since you're not a drag racer, you'll feel the difference stoplight to stoplight, but it may not be worth it for you to go that route. You may be better off plunking a 351C in it. There's no substitute for cubic inches.
50 bucks??? man where are those deals when i need them... my learning project was a 74 torino (police pkg) wish i had kept that one. still got the 140 mph calibration cert speedo. i'm still wandering what to do with my 67 f100.
67 -F100 - if nothing else put on EBAY - man, check the prices some of that stuff goes for. The older the more it goes for. Probably late this next summer I'll be looking for another "farm" truck to restore. Check around, soem of these farmers got some real gems in the barn. Mine was average at best but resto parts are fairly easy to come by - typical rust areas but the hood was perfect and the front fenders were perfect, doors minor scratchs, bed was tore up so had to be replaced.
mines got all the typical rust in all the typical places, but it is so cool to see the faces of GT'ers and ricers when the ragged ole' truck blows their doors off! by BTW it's stocked with a "BOSS"400, SVO cam, C6 and 3.25...
Originally posted by Ravin So you would recommend just building a strong 302? I would like a really bad *** street truck. Considering i live 3 hours from the closest track and have no plans to move, building a over the top truck is out of the question. Also I am building it EFI.
Hi, Ravin. I'm in Idaho, too. (And I've got a 54 F100).
I don't think the stroker kit is a good investment. I have an 86 Mustang GT with the roller 5.0 SEFI engine. It has nice torque. I think you could build your 302 with HO parts and have a very nice rig.
If you think you want more grunt than a 302 gives, get a Windsor 351 and stroke it. The stroker cranks are cheap, $280, and the kit uses stock rods and off-the-shelf 302 pistons. The Windsor motor has the best cubic inches/weight ratio of Ford motors.
Originally posted by pcmenten Hi, Ravin. I'm in Idaho, too. (And I've got a 54 F100).
I don't think the stroker kit is a good investment. I have an 86 Mustang GT with the roller 5.0 SEFI engine. It has nice torque. I think you could build your 302 with HO parts and have a very nice rig.
If you think you want more grunt than a 302 gives, get a Windsor 351 and stroke it. The stroker cranks are cheap, $280, and the kit uses stock rods and off-the-shelf 302 pistons. The Windsor motor has the best cubic inches/weight ratio of Ford motors.
And the 351W can be fitted with EFI, too.
Let's see '86 Mustang 5.0...forged bottom end stock.....I'd go nitrous. :-)
i'd just like too know what a "good" set of heads would be to put on my 427W ? any body got a clue? World, Roush (same), Edelbrock, Superflow, Jegs...? MONEY does matter!!!
I think you could get any number of opinions as to what's the best. most times performance parts are polarizing due to people stick with what has worked best for them. I'd take a more scientific approach if money really is no object. True that money will buy a better head but at some point it's diminishing returns. Look for flow numbers, head volume, intake/exhaust runner flow rates, valve size and then match against what the goal is. You can do all the "best practices" like porting and polishing but if you are still wanting pump gas ability, they carbon up so fast that's it's money down the drain. Valve bowl polish has advantages and other items will affect everything but it will utimately come down to what is the sum of the whole parts. Is the cam right for the head, is the valve/piston clearance enough, are then inline or different. My opinion is Rousch - but then I'm a Rousch bigot to some extent.
Don't just look at flow #'s @.5 & .6 lift range even if that is where you run. Try to get the most area under the curve. a head that progesses more steeply from .2-.4 lift will produce more power than a head that has higher numbers @ .5-.6 lift. It should produce a higher average hp and torque through the usaeable hp and torque range. AFR is a good example of this. But personnaly i like Canfield and second edelbrock for putting up big numbers.