Issue: Turns over, seems to do initial start (maybe 1 sec), then stalls/ dies.

Troubleshot: Pump holds fuel, new filter, no fuel leaks, carb does shoot fuel into throat when manually moving linkage, spark to each cylinder, new solenoid and all new battery cables/ grounds, battery fully charged.

Backstory: Got the truck, did start/ run. Had an aftermarket horn and radio mounted under dash. I removed both and now it will not start.

I only recall removing a power wire/ ground for the horn and power/ ground/ speaker wire for the radio.

Upon looking up under the dash, I have some questionable wires. And without a solid wiring diagram yet, Im looking for help.

The first and second pic is of a wire coming through the firewall on the driver side. I do not recall the orange wire being hooked up to anything. It is not connected and severely frayed at the firewall plug.

The third and fourth pic is of the wires directly under the dash between the driver door and column. There are three connectors (Red wire/ Green connector, Yellow wire/ black connector, Black wire/ black connector) that did not have any connecting wire and one braided one that was already cut when I found it.

I am assuming the no start has something to do with me removing the stereo, not necessarily the wires. But I have been wrong in life more than Ive been right.

Any ideas?

Single orange wire

Orange wire close up

Under dash

Under dash circled

 

Well young man first think you need to do is buy one of these, looks like you're going to need it. Book - Wiring Diagram Manual - Truck for 1965 Ford Trucks | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations (dennis-carpenter.com)
Also get yourself a shop manual they are available as originals, reprints and on CD or thumb drive.
In your picture the pink wire that is burned and cut off, "it's the one with the fire sleeve over it", is the resistor wire going to the coil. Thats what keeps it running after you let go of the ignition switch. It appears it might have been replaced but not correctly. It plugs into the red wire with the green connector coming out of the ignition switch and you butt splice a new one at the cowl plug. These resistor wires are available at any parts house.
The only reason you would eliminate that wire is if you have an aftermarket ignition that requires 12V.

 

I found a schematic and have a revised question now.
if the resistor wire is the fire sleeved one in picture three and four, and that one has to be connected to the red wire with the green connector, what is the orange wire or at least it looks to be orange, maybe it’s pink, frayed and cut wire coming off the firewall in my first picture? the schematic that I have is in color and it looks like that is the 16 a resistor wire.

now I’m just wondering if it’s all the same wire and it’s got two brakes in it. I’m at work so I can’t crawl under there and check.

 

Welcome to FTE and the old truck hobby.

One way to see if the coil is getting power is with key to run and using a test light put it between ground and the + side of the coil.
No power that would be the problem. I bet if you did that same test but turned the key to start you will have power.

Also as a test and if you have to move the truck you can hot weir it.
Run a wire from the battery + side to the coil + side and when you start it it should stay running when you let go of the key.
To shut it off you will need to remove that "hot wire" and the motor should shut down.

You could also back feed from the coil. I would remove the wires from the coil when doing this so not to burn up the coil.
Hot wire to the wires and go inside with test light and check them wires for power.
Then pull the hot wire and check again if no power that is to the coil.

Now you just need to check what wire is resistance if running point or full 12 volts if needed and power with key on.
Once found hook it to that wire that had power when back feeding.
My .02
Dave ----

 

It is the same wire. Looks like it got hot and some idiot did some creative wiring. Go buy a new wire, cut the burned one and inch out from the cowl and splice a new one in then plug it into the green connector. Some of them come with the fire sleeve some don't depends on where you buy it.
Beware of online freebee wiring diagrams I have found that some are full of errors and omissions.

 

I picked up a shop manual on thumb drive today and I will use the schematics with caution, they were from this website though