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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

ABS Issue Driver side front locking

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Old Aug 13, 2024 | 01:10 PM
  #46  
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Interesting problem. I would assume that the logic in the ABS module is designed to detect that the wheel being modulated is actually speeding up, matching the others, when the pump kicks on. The whole pump of the system is to get all of the wheel speeds to match, by monitoring the wheel speed sensors. If the ABS module tried to control a wheel and nothing happened there should be a code or a light. That's the weird part. Basically, your ABS system does not seem to be working at all, but there are no indicators that it isn't.

In short, the ABS system is not causing the wheel lockup, it's just not preventing it.

In your post above you said that Forscan detected when you had the ABS fuse pulled. But did the ABS light illuminate?

I wonder if the PCM is involved in causing the light to illuminate. Any chance the PCM has been messed with in the past? What's the history of the vehicle? Probably won't help, I'm just curious about your odd situation.



p.s. Just thought of the fact that the "wheel speed sensor" on yours, as noted above, is the ring gear tone wheel. So the ABS module only sees ring gear speed. Which would not change if one wheel locks up. I might have been missing what pawpaw has been saying above. Equal braking on each side is probably the solution. You can probably ignore everything I just wrote and work on getting the two back wheel brakes balanced. That's what the system expects.

Don't overlook unequal tire sizes or quality as a factor also.
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Old Aug 13, 2024 | 03:55 PM
  #47  
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I've not had to do brake work in 11 years now, so not up to date on who offers the best bang for our brake parts bucks. I would imagine Motorcraft quality is good, maybe inquire at your local Motorcraft Distributor, price at mine = or often beats Walmart!!!

I do use Motorcraft PM-1 Dot-3 brake fluid to flush our fleet brake systems every 3 years since 1977 & no problems. Here is why I do it every three years, where are you on the boiling point curve, just flushed mine, so I know where I am. Why Change Brake Fluid? (aa1car.com)
 
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Old Aug 14, 2024 | 03:49 PM
  #48  
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Info update:
Forscan got back to me after I sent them the logs gathered and a few screen shots. They said the version of ForScan for my vehicle did NOT include the ABS brake bleed function. The also said they would be adding those ABS functions to a 'Test' build that they would send along.

It's great that Forscan would do that - they didn't say how long it would take however.

Rear brakes - I got a set from NAPA - they look fine - installing them today... Stay tuned...

Again thanks for the support guys.

Jan
 
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Old Aug 14, 2024 | 10:18 PM
  #49  
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Be sure to Degrease the brake drums before they contact the new shoes friction surface.so the new shoes aren't contaminated.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 12:26 AM
  #50  
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To All:
I've installed a new set of NAPA rear brake shoes, as suggested I de-greased everything with Brake-Kleen degreaser. My brakes now work flawlessly - no more locking up !
Frankly I'm blown away by the fact that brake fluid on the shoes causes locking up - but - the proof is in the results.
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread - I was sure it was something to to with ABS - I WAS WRONG - all along it was the contaminated rear brake shoes on the drivers side.

All that said I still would like to get ForScan working properly on my 06 Ranger - I'm currently waiting for a 'Test' build from Forscan for my truck.
I do still have an outstanding issue: Luke warm heat - I'll start another thread when time allows.

Again - Thanks to everyone there !
Jan
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 06:33 AM
  #51  
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Good find, fix, feedback & way to hang in there, not give up & keeping an open trouble shooting mind to see your considerable efforts come to a satisfying positive ending.

Now you're ready for slick roads year-round with a completely refurbished braking system.

I know it gets cold & slick in RI, was stationed down at NAS Quonset Point 56-59. My first "New England" winter it was -22 F for 3 days with winds off the bay & I had a daily mile & a half walk in it to work but I've finally thawed out. lol Anyway see you in your wimpy heat thread so you don't freeze up this winter!!!.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 07:34 AM
  #52  
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Forgot to say don't forget to replace the ABS fuse after your test drive.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 09:04 AM
  #53  
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Good job on getting the brakes fixed.

Is the lack of heat coming from low air flow through the vents, or warm instead of hot air coming out?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 09:49 AM
  #54  
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@yardbird
Regarding the heat, it only gets luke warm in winter, started on the 1st cold day last Dec [23]. In 20 degree weather the cab after about 30 min may reach 50 or so. I just wore a coat last winter when driving in cold weather.
In things I've seen on U-tube they say often it's the Blend-Door actuator - I need to look into that more... I did check the heater valve under the hood and it seemed that hot water was going to the heater - I need to also check the return - didn't do that 'yet'.
Thanks for asking
Jan
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 03:31 PM
  #55  
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Check both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses at the firewall for equal temperature with the engine warm.

If both are hot, then you most likely have a blend door motor problem. If yours is like the attached video, it's easy to fix.

 
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