All of my evaporators and condenser are new.

I’ll stay tuned!

 

Maybe the sourced compressor you have for the 250 6.0 has a lessor CFM rating than the one specific for an Excursion?

 

that would be temporary fixable when reving the engine up to like 3k rpm or so but that aint helping too

as far as the ferry options go its quite expensive to ship that 3,5T block of american freedom steel

 

From the UAC website, it’s the clutch assembly, on the same main body. So that smaller size pulley must really impact the capacity significantly. I’ll try a different part and see how it changes.

 

This may be a dumb suggestion. If you have the automatic climate control hit the outside temp button and see how close it is to actual outside temperature.

I say this because I had a Taurus SHO that had an A/C problem the shop could not figure out. I picked the car up to drive it over the weekend. At some point I pushed the outside temp button and it was reading sub freezing temp even though it was a super hot summer day. I picked up a new temp sensor at the dealership and installed it over the weekend. The A/C started working perfectly.

The shop owner wrote off a lot of new parts on my bill since the mechanic forgot to check such a simple thing before throwing tons of parts at the A/C system.

 

Hi its been a little while since wrapping the lines in the engine bay in tin foil and it significantly improved the ac Performance still not great but at full blast it is okay to be in the truck

The outside temp sensor shows pretty accurate readings

Im pretty sure some heatshield or air shrouds are missing or something isnt right in the cooling of the liquid freon Departement.

Next i would like to try some experiment with a garden hose and cool water as adittional cooling that would be an 100% indicator if the Problem lies there

 

Hi after some more playing around and some hot weather to test i have narrowed the problem seems the airflow thru the condenser is the problem i fixed an temp sensor on the high pressure line that goes straight in the orifice tube right at the junction to the rear line and watched the temp´s. while the truck is cold the temp hovers around 95° and the aircondittion feels okay but if the engine reached operating temp in drive at an stop the line temp climbs up to 150°- 180° range
and then the ac is just blowing luke warm
since the fan clutch is new the radiators new and spotless clean and every other temperature of the truck are completley fine like the coolant temp is at like 190° constantly even the god old 4R100 is spot on 120° over ambient at idle and like towing 6000 pounds in very steep inclines...

so i mounted an cooling fan from an ford focus mk1 that i had laying around behind the condenser over the transmission cooler ... that keeps the line temp at somewhat around 120° at idle
(so the cooling power is now acceptable ) i have an mk1 focus with a 1.8L TDCI and a 93 explorer and their AC is shockfreezing me so i know how the performance should be... so i am still far away from perfect...

now the question is. where is the solution to ice cold ac?
is there multiple fan styles or shrouds around? maybe someone has fittet the wrong part at some point

the fan and shroud are flush but the outside diameters are quite different to each other like the fan has probably 4cm or like 1-1/2 inch of space .... sure the engine moves with the powertrain and the shroud stays in place but that seems a bit exessive

 

These are pics from my dirty 'ol 03 Ex v10.

 

seems like your shroud is a bit tighter to the fan... but just eyeballing
i try to get a measurement for some sience

 

Bump...
I've just recently acquired a 2003 Excursion 7.3L. Was told be the seller that the system had a slow leak and just needed some freon.
When I got it home I hooked up my gauges and it seemed like the compressor was weak, so I decided to start from scratch and ordered all NEW parts, minus the EVAPS.
I did end up replacing the front EVAP since I destroyed it attempting to separate the dryer which was seemingly welded at the nut fitting.
Now after installing all these new parts, the front AC performance is subpar at best, <10 degree split at idle, but the rear system seems to be working well, with about a 25+ degree split.
After charging I hooked up an electric fan to simulate driving air flows and set the engine rpms to 1500 per some other posts I've read.
The gauge pressures looks good to me, the lines are ICE cold under the hood, the heater core is bypassed, but the air coming out of the front vents is NOT cold.

I'm wondering if the front system is pulling in hot air from the engine bay, or if there is some kind of heat shield or foam missing?
I did notice there is a decent amount of "cooler" air coming out of the evap box under the hood where the freon lines go in and out.

Full A/C system was flushed including the the rear evap and TXV which are the only two parts that I didn't change.
68oz freon 14oz of PAG High temp orifice (for climates above 105 degrees)

 

You're new parts included a compressor? The orange bits are part of the pistons.

 

Yes. Everything except the rear evap and txv.

 

Hey im back with my problem still no perfect ac function
currentley it is winter so no test conditions but im sure summer comes back with some hot day´s and week´s
the gap at the fan shroud is fixed i put a door seal aroud the edge of the shroud the gap is closed and if the fan blade touches under high acceleration it hits only soft rubber
so far that functions flawless the problem is that the ac is still like **** at idle the liquid line after the condenser to the front orifice reaches something like 50°celsius / 122°F
and the compressor runs 24/7 at outside temps around 5°c / 41°F that can not be aceptable
still good airflow thru the condenser everything cleaned multiple times with degreaser and 1million gallons of water

I thougt at the insulation problem with the hot engine bay air but at my case even the return line out the evap gets luke warm with no condensation....

next i try to get some oil out the system maybe it affects the heat transfer in the condenser?

 

Hey i´m back again wheather starts getting nice an warm but still no powerful ac function ......

what happened in the meantime...
i switched the Fan clutch the seccond time this time i got the original ford Motorcraft one from Rockauto (the only one where there is specifficaly called for truck with AC )
that however got my liquid line temps from the condeser to the orifice down significantly one problem solved.

now working cold ac ? no !
f you accelerate the engine it gets bearable but not great if you switch off the rear ac the front works pretty okay.
but that is definetley not good enugh to cool this big behemoth in the baking sun..
as said if you accelerate the engine to arround 1500-1700 cooling gets better but higher rpm do nothing for cooling any better.

at idle i get like 55 f
at speed like 47f
vent temps but even that not on full blast...

(i checked for to much oil and or freon ammount ant everything is fine on that end)

what options can i try next???
3 ac compressors bad in a row? (i got reman compressors) any ideas?
also : them two orifice and txv? valve´s are the oem Motorcraft ones .

can`t be that hard to get it working right ? right??

 

Is your engine fan working? The ac compressor should be fairly efficient at idle or at rpm. Raising rpm normally should barely have effect

but if the airflow across the radiator and condenser isn’t good, the heat transfer is poor. Which means the AC cooling isn’t good.

I’d check coolant temps and spray out the radiator and AC condenser. Maybe dirty fins. Maybe poorly operating fan clutch