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I have a 2022 F350 and pull a 14K KZ 5W.with disc brakes, electric over hydraulic. It has been flawless for about 3 years and in the last ouple weeks I get a trailer disconnected message towing and all the trailer lights are still working. I suspect it's a controller issue but I have no idea where to start looking. The controller has always been set to about 4. The 7 pin looks good on both ends. I have tried the in bed, normal connection , and the bumper connection. What next?
What is the temperature like where you are? I have a different brand truck but getting a similar message. The heat seems to get to the truck computer. A friend with the same truck has the same issue. Temperature drop and life is good again.
I have a 2022 F350 and pull a 14K KZ 5W.with disc brakes, electric over hydraulic. It has been flawless for about 3 years and in the last ouple weeks I get a trailer disconnected message towing and all the trailer lights are still working. I suspect it's a controller issue but I have no idea where to start looking. The controller has always been set to about 4. The 7 pin looks good on both ends. I have tried the in bed, normal connection , and the bumper connection. What next?
Clean your plug and reciprocal, I like to use alcohol
I'll get the contact cleaner when I get home. I had driven a big rig and check to make sure the cords contacts had not spread too far. I need to check the voltage out of the truck also it may give me a clue, just thought someone may have had the issue before.
A friend has a '22 and consistently gets trailer disconnected messages.. He has electric over hydraulic. He used a bungee cord to keep his plug secure in the trucks 7 pin socket. It seems to work for him. He put a new cord on the 5th wheel but nothing changed.
How about under the truck? Some folks complain that there is a plug underneath than can loose or corroded.
I had two 2022 F350s and got the message with both trucks. It took 20k miles before I saw it on the first truck and my current truck started doing it within the first 1k miles of towing. I used dielectric grease on my 7-pin and I've never seen the error again in over 20k miles of towing. I got rid of my 5th wheel so I dont know if the error will ever come up again.
I took a meter to the fuses, #30 inside and #62 under the hood both meter good, I have no power at the 5 o'clock in the 7 pin in the bed or the bumper. I have read there is a trailer tow module and I'm starting to think it's gone TU. There are no codes other than trailer disconnected I'll need to get my code reader on it when I get home.
My 2019 F-250 did this the first time I towed with it. In addition to using dielectric grease on the 7-pin I found some threads talking about the need to open up all of the connectors under the bed of the truck, ensure they are dry inside and fill them with dielectric grease. Haven't had another occurrence of the issue since doing that.
Clean your plug and reciprocal, I like to use alcohol
Denny
This, but I prefer a contact cleaner that will dissolve corrosion, and I bent my contacts in the plug on the end of the cable with a small screwdriver. After losing braking power to the trailer I keep the contact cleaner in the trailer now.
No voltage is likely because no trailer is connected or truck not running or in drive or some other electronic function.
You won't get any voltage at the plug by applying the brake unless there is a trailer connected and the truck is moving. If you connect your trailer and check for voltage where the cord connects to the trailer using the manual slider you should get a voltage. You have electric over hydraulic so the voltage is just a reference voltage and will vary with the amount of controller input. Your hydraulic actuator gets it's power from the trailer batteries not the truck, the truck controller just gives it a reference voltage telling the actuator how hard to apply the brakes.
Below is a photo I took a few days ago when I was doing some preventive maintenance on my bumper. This is the back side of the 7-pin receptacle that is part of the bumper. It was packed with grease from the factory. You can see corrosion on the tips of the leads. I sprayed the heck out of the male side, cleaning the leads and all the grease. I then repacked it with grease. I was NOT getting the Trailer Disconnected message. But I suspect that if I had let it go on much longer it could have happened.
Just to clarify, below is a photo of the backside of the bumper with an arrow showing where the receptible from the above photo is located.
You won't get any voltage at the plug by applying the brake unless there is a trailer connected and the truck is moving. If you connect your trailer and check for voltage where the cord connects to the trailer using the manual slider you should get a voltage. You have electric over hydraulic so the voltage is just a reference voltage and will vary with the amount of controller input. Your hydraulic actuator gets it's power from the trailer batteries not the truck, the truck controller just gives it a reference voltage telling the actuator how hard to apply the brakes.
Denny
I had a trailer in the flat 4 pin, truck running, I did not try in gear, when the controller was squeezed I got no voltage. I did try switching to my car hauler trailer and to electric brakes, still zero volts. Brake Pressure setting was middle I forget the working. My headache rack reads as a trailer,(flat connector test) in the past the controller squeezed showed the brake setting.
Connect the trailer (any trailer). Start the truck, put it in gear and look at the trailer information screen. You should see the gain go up as you press the brake harder. And with very little pressure you will see no gain (no trailer braking). At least on my '18 and '22 it worked that way.
Maybe at the same time someone can measure the braking voltage at the trailer while doing this.
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