Are you getting power on the red with green stripe wires to the ignition coil and to the ignition module?
Are the wires between the ignition module, ignition coil, and distributor intact?
I don’t remember discussing wires on the driver side, so maybe it’s only those wires on the passenger side. When you say you don’t have spark, is the engine cranking with the starter and just not firing? Or are you getting no cranking at all?

 

I just check voltage at the coil and only got 5 volts with a fully charged battery with key on…

 

I also just checked the ohms on coils primary circuit and got a 0 ohms reading.

 

I got an ohms reading of 9.6 on secondary coil.

 

Sorry didn't see your posts before. I don't know the ohms of particular coils, but I'm sure some members here do, or they have documents to test by. But that would depend on the exact model coil.
As far as the voltage at the Red w/green positive coil wire, that could be normal. It's lower than desirable perhaps, but that might also depend on how long you had the key in the ON position before you checked.

The Red w/green wire to the coil is a "resistor" wire that we may have talked about already. It's to supply the coil with a reduced voltage from the ignition switch. Usually between 7 and 9 volts, is considered optimal while running I believe, but it can be less depending on the heat generated by the current flowing through the wire. And likely it's age as well.
There are times when the distributor is in just the right position, and with the key ON you can see the full 12v at the coil. This is because there is no load on the wire, therefore no reduction in voltage. At least at first...
If you have a sensitive ohm meter, you should be able to measure the resistance on that circuit. But almost nobody ever does that test, because it's awkward to get the meter probes on one end at the coil, and the other end at the ignition switch!

So your low reading might be normal, but if you had only turned the key on just before testing, and got 5v that does seem a bit low. It's enough to create a spark, but not as much as desired.

Paul

 

Why the variance depending on how long the key is on?

 

When the key is on without the engine running, the heat buildup in the resistor wire doesn’t stabilize easily. This extra heat can add some more resistance.
Now, I’m not an electrical engineer, and I haven’t tested this theory because since I was first working on cars back in the days of points distributors, I was told never leave the key on for longer than necessary.
And I realize that the resistor wire has a set value of a certain ohms. For example, 1.45 ohms, just to throw out a number. I don’t remember the exact rating.
But in my mind, resistance is heat, and heat is resistance. There may be a finite amount of voltage drop, so I may be off base.
But I also believe that as these things get older, you might see a drop in voltage as connections along the line get older, you might see a drop in voltage.
But my thinking is that, the longer you leave the key on, the more the voltage will drop to a certain point.
Maybe someone here correct that if it’s wrong. But I’d love to see that tested sometime as well.
Though I wouldn’t want anybody to burn out an ignition coil or overheat a resistor wire while doing it!

 

Well, I should point out then that I had to splice the resistance wire due to the fire. I’m guessing this could be affecting the quality of my spark thus my starting issues.

 

That could certainly be at least part of the problem.
Resister wires are finicky to splice anyway, but it might depend on where you spliced and how well it took.
But I believe earlier in this conversation, someone suggested to connect directly from battery to plus side of the coil. Or maybe that was another discussion somewhere on the forums.
That’s a way to find out for sure if low voltage is a problem.
Don’t leave it that way for more than the minute or two it takes to try to crank the starter, but it’s definitely a good test.
Take a piece of wire and run it directly from either a convenient power source, or directly to the battery. When you’re ready to start it, attach the wire to the + side of the coil, step into the cab and turn the key.
If it starts, then you know that voltage is your issue.
If it doesn’t, then you have to look elsewhere. but at least you know.