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I recently bought a 1993 Eddie Bauer 4.0L Aerostar and I find that the transmission doesn't want to go into gear immediately when I switch from park. I let it idle for awhile and gently accelerate and it goes into reverse. When I back it out of my driveway and put it into drive it delays again until I gently tap the accelerator. I checked the fluid level and had to add about a cup's worth and it seemed to be within the level on the dip stick, but I'm reluctant to drive it any distance. It has 216,018 miles on it. I'm hoping that a transmission flush will get it back "in gear". Any ideas?
With 200K+ miles, it's very possible you are due for a complete rebuild. It's very likely that the fluid has never been changed.
That being said, forget about the flush. Drop the pan, drop the filter and get all the oil out of there. And also drain the torque converter. You'll have to put a socket on the front of the crankshaft and turn it until a small drain plug shows up behind the rubber plug on the bellhousing. Take the plug out and get out another three quarts of dirty fluid out of the torque converter. Put the plug back in, install a new filter, add about 7 quarts of fluid, start it, put the selector in each gear for a few seconds and get the fluid level into the "operating range". With any luck, you'll have a working transmission. If it didn't work, it's time for a rebuild.
I had transmission slippage with my 3.0L Aerostar when the fluid level was low. The filter was plugged enough that it prevented fluid from circulating. The dipstick would show full but the pump couldn't get at it. After I dropped the pan and replaced the filter, I put the same amount of fluid back in that I drained out. When I checked the fluid level after starting it back up, I had to add a couple of quarts to bring it up to the full mark! No wonder it was slipping!
With 200K+ miles, it's very possible you are due for a complete rebuild. It's very likely that the fluid has never been changed.
That being said, forget about the flush. Drop the pan, drop the filter and get all the oil out of there. And also drain the torque converter. You'll have to put a socket on the front of the crankshaft and turn it until a small drain plug shows up behind the rubber plug on the bellhousing. Take the plug out and get out another three quarts of dirty fluid out of the torque converter. Put the plug back in, install a new filter, add about 7 quarts of fluid, start it, put the selector in each gear for a few seconds and get the fluid level into the "operating range". With any luck, you'll have a working transmission. If it didn't work, it's time for a rebuild.
My 4.0l FWD has the same problem, first thing in the morning I select reverse, 'clunk', we go backwards, stop, select drive and no 'clunk' the engine revs but no forward motion. Then if I rev the engine hard 'clunk' and we are off with wheel spin.
I hit the end of our slightly uphill drive and stop, and, roll back, no drive, I rev the engine and 'clunk', drive engages with wheel spin again and all is then good for the rest of the day!
Oil level is showing normal on the dip stick, (I've added some 'sea foam' with no change) so following your suggestion I will proceed, but have a question: you say remove a rubber plug and get another 3 quarts out of the torque converter, but you don't mention 'refilling' the torque converter.
Is it automatically refilled from the 7 quarts added to the general transmission?
Unfortunately my nearest transmission specialist is 2 hrs drive away, which means driving there, and staying in a hotel while they have the vehicle for a day or two, not a great option.
Thank you.
My 4.0l FWD has the same problem, first thing in the morning I select reverse, 'clunk', we go backwards, stop, select drive and no 'clunk' the engine revs but no forward motion. Then if I rev the engine hard 'clunk' and we are off with wheel spin.
I hit the end of our slightly uphill drive and stop, and, roll back, no drive, I rev the engine and 'clunk', drive engages with wheel spin again and all is then good for the rest of the day!
This sort of "shifting wrong but once it works it works fine" absolutely reeks of valve body or solenoid problems.
When clutches or bands are worn they simply slip and you get the typical symptoms.
Hi, based on my previous description in an earlier thread, can anyone tell me the part nos for the possible 'sticking' electric drive select valve(s) I need? the vehicle has a VIN of 1FMDA31X3SZA74616, if that helps so that I can try to source them. Also what the transmission fitted (it is a 2wd auto box) is.
My local Ford garage here in Canada tells me "For a 1994 ford aerostar, we aren’t even able to get these parts."
I see various options for it on eBay for example, if I had the part nos I could start looking.
Thank you.
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