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1975 F250 Highboy with FE360 and C6 transmission. Front end is a DanaHD44 with closed knuckles and truck is 100% stock as Ford built it. I am located in southern NH
Front tires have worn unevenly after about 10K miles to the point that I need replacements.
Yes I should have rotated them and/or dealt with the issue sooner but I didn't and now I get to purchase two new tires.
Are todays alignment machines at VIP , Pep Boys or any of the generic big box tire stores capable of aligning this front end or should I be seeking out an old timer who worked on these trucks
"Back in the day" ?
Do these axles have all the same adjustment capabilities, caster, camber, toe in toe out as modern axles?
Thanks in advance for any advice/guidance.
Tbruz
Passenger side
Driver side
Last edited by tbruz; Jun 19, 2024 at 12:06 PM.
Reason: added tire pics
Yes they can be adjusted. Many alignment shops don't or won't adjust anything except toe in toe out.
Normally our 4x4 axles don't need adjustment unless they have been in an accident or hubs swapped.
Caster can be adjusted by spring wedges or offset ball joint (Dana 44).
Camber can be adjusted by offset ball joint (Dana 44) or thin tapered hub shims.
There are some shops that can align medium to heavy trucks that might have someone that would tackle this.
I think most alignment shops could do an inspection and tell you what is out of spec.
Many times bad tire wear is caused by bad ball joints or tie rod ends. I would check these first.
If you can post a picture of your tire wear someone on here can probably tell you whats wrong.
I would look at the tires, left versus right and see what tire has the worse wear and it is on the inside or outside. That can sort of ID the problem side to look into harder. Then X2 insp the ball joints (upper and lower on both sides) and then tie rod ends. I am not fully experienced with closed knuckles, so bear with me.
But also a combination of a little bit of play from bad/worn ball joints (or even 1 side), a little worn tie rod end/ends, loose or not tight tight wheel bearings, and or some worn steering components (like the steering box). Even a set of bad shocks, can add up to a front end tire eater. Yes you should of at least rotated the tires, but this way you only have to buy 2 instead of 4. Also make sure you do not have a bent rim.
Found an old timey front end shop in Manchester NH that still has its old time mechanic1 to 2 days a week.
In fact they had a MINT 65 chevy pick up and a 53 chevy two door that was being worked on today.
Next week, they will inspect the front end and put it on their alignment rack.
First blush from them just looking at the wear pattern:
DS- lack of rotating tires, overinflation
PS- alignment issue, lack of rotation and overinflation.
New tires have been ordered.
Tbruz
Make sure when they tire machine speed balance them ask them to please they check the rims REAL close for any sign of being bent. Overinflation is as bad as under inflation. Remember that 4wd front tires always wear different than a 2wd front tires. Look at some tire vale stem caps that are low pressure indicators. As far as over inflation...that is on you and a quality tire pressure gauge. What size tires are you running?
AS others, just guessing but,,, prolly over pressure and toe in too much.
Maybe it is the angle the picture was taken but to me it looks more like wareing in center of tire not so much on either outer edge.
Always fun to guess...with pictures.
I bought a neighbors 1992 Wheel Horse, to go with my 1981 Wheel Horse. My front tires look new except for dirt and age, his were slick? He just bought a new zero turn, and so he let it go cheap. His wife used it but to mow she did use their paved driveway. Got to looking, with the right front pointed to Seattle, while the left is pointing at Baja.
On my '77 F-150 4x4 I know I have some positive camber as I can see it ... and a level beside the tire straight ahead confirms the top is about 1/4" out from bottom. I can turn left and right and see she has good positive caster but in over 35 years, I never yet measured it. It has 4 degree C bushings though. I shoot for 1/8" toe in straight ahead with 30' between measurements plotted on concrete using my gauge. It has '78-'79 steering linkage.
Toe in improves straight line stability, but too much will cause a weave in my experience, and will wear the tires on the outside. Toe in is also used to offset the bushings, etc compressing under braking or just allowing for force pushing them down the road (RWD).
Toe out improves turn-in response as the inside most front tire is already pulling you it's way ... but at the cost of inner tire wear.
He just bought a new zero turn, and so he let it go cheap. His wife used it but to mow she did use their paved driveway. Got to looking, with the right front pointed to Seattle, while the left is pointing at Baja.