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Hey, I'm looking for some advice for my 300-6. Did some work today and the valve guides on 2 of the valves are busted. Will still work but its gonna burn a little bit of oil. I've been looking into doing some performance upgrades and would like to increase the compression ratio and wanted some opinions on aftermarket cylinder heads to increase the comp. My reason for the compression change is that I, in the near future would like to put a more aggressive cam in it and probably get a 4bbl carb and intake. Open to alternate ideas, suggestions etc.
Steve, 440 sixpack has good input. There is no substitute for Cubic Inches.
I built up my 300 "mini-cummins-gasser" back in 1997. I paid the local machine shop for machining .040 over-bore, and valve job while having some mild port-work done. I took the rotating assembly up to Auto Associates Speed Shop for Balancing.
I'm running Hypertech pistons, not cast or forged. I installed a 262 Comp Cam, steel timing gears (I like the whine), and a 600 cfm Holley universal carb on a Clifford intake, and matching Clifford exh headers.
I believe I zero'd the odometer, and now today, it is showing 22k + miles.
The 300 being an inline six engine, it has never overheated without a fan shroud. Must have a good radiator. LoL
Steve,
To the contrary, I also have a running 385 series D7TE 429 engine in my Trekker E250 van.
This engine was built by the Redding speed shop, Auto Associates, and this engine was also balanced and stroked and is running Crane mid-range cam, and roller rockers and a 750 cfm Holley. It will run circles around the 300 six.
The 300 six is just such a nice reliable engine, which just keeps on keeping on.
6 bangers were for budget minded people just wanting to get by as cheap as possible, and for that market they worked well. beyond that nobody wanted them and they still don't. so give some thought to what you really want and what the guy that might buy it from you someday wants. putting the money into a v8 makes a lot of sense.
Do what you want. The same guys who say “no one will buy it if you do x, y or z” are the same ones that say “none of these trucks are worth more than $5k there’s a field of 100 rust free daily drivers that only I know about and can buy for $2500 each!”
As far as performance? Who cares! You can drop 10k into a dentside and still get outrun, outpulled and out off roaded by a new truck. If it does what you need it to that’s performance enough.
IMO these trucks are about coolness and nostalgia. Both are subjective. You want a V8? Do it, they sound better. You want a 300? Mod it how you want. They’ve got a reputation for reliability for a reason and are cool as heck!
Below is a recent photo of my I-6 "mini-cummins-gasser" 300:
On a side note:
I had to cut and raise my PS pump bracket to allow for the power steering box from a '93 F150 (they're cheap $$).
So I made up my PS Box mounting bracket and used the hard lines and hoses that came with the PS box all for $40.
Note: when doing cross-over steering, the length of the Pitman arm is crucial.
If too long, then the sweep of the arm may exceed that of the steering stops on the axle assembly. right !
Gotta use the brain and think about Geometry.
The local Loggers just Love Love the Ford 300 inline Six Banger.
Do what you want. The same guys who say “no one will buy it if you do x, y or z” are the same ones that say “none of these trucks are worth more than $5k there’s a field of 100 rust free daily drivers that only I know about and can buy for $2500 each!”
As far as performance? Who cares! You can drop 10k into a dentside and still get outrun, outpulled and out off roaded by a new truck. If it does what you need it to that’s performance enough.
IMO these trucks are about coolness and nostalgia. Both are subjective. You want a V8? Do it, they sound better. You want a 300? Mod it how you want. They’ve got a reputation for reliability for a reason and are cool as heck!
Who says that? the truth doesn't have to be to your liking so don't distort it.
I agree do what you want. but put some thought into it before you dump a bunch of money into something you regret.
Summit Racing sells the 500-hp Turbo Kit for the 300, I believe that with 26-lbs boost the output is greater than 500.
And too, the short block had not tossed a rod either at 26-lb boost. Not too shabby.
Forced induction will put a smile on our face.
Therefore with the weight of a pickup, I'd go turbo with stock head rather than an aftermarket head normally aspirated.
and boy oh boy, it might then give those 12valve Cummins boys a run for the money. IMO, the 12v is over-rated.
I think with 500-hp on tap, that can twist up to 6k rpm's the turbo'd 300 would run off and leave the Cummins.
Yes, no apologies either, I am not a Dodge Cummins fan, and they are a dime-a-dozen everywhere. Nothing special.
Interesting is the 300 bore is 4-inches just like a 350 Chevy small block. Then rod and piston interchange choices.
Niext is the choice of head for desired chamber size, early forged steel crank's, and so on. Choices.
If you don't want to get into the engine (it sounds like you wouldn't mind, but here is my .02 anyway) adding an intake, 4BBL and efi manifolds give some decent improvement.
I think what limits my sons truck and others is the NP435 transmission.
