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Eaton true trac

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Old Jun 12, 2024 | 08:32 PM
  #1  
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Eaton true trac

Hey guys,

I'm going to put an Eaton true trac in the rear of my 94 f350. Before I order it I wanted to get all the facts straight. 10.25 rear.

does anyone know if these diffs come with a slot for the tone ring to be pressed on? Like Is the notch cutout for the tone ring to be pressed on?

i think other than that I will be doing carrier bearings and shims… anything else major that I would need to know before tackling this? I’ve never done a rear end but I’ve got a neighbor that’s pretty good with them so on the basic gear setup I should be fine. Just more or less looking for issues or scenarios applying to the 10.5/10.25 rear. Also heard that there is a tire limit size… are 35’s gonna be a problem?


Any help Is appreciated
Thanks,
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 08:43 AM
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The ones I see online look like they do not have the machined surface you need
If they list it for your 1994 it should have the machined surface for the tone ring and the tone ring might even be on there already
Did they show a picture?
Can you call them?
Pretty sure it will have the machined surface if they list it for your particular truck
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 11:17 AM
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Those things are tanks, I had one installed in my old 6.4 PSD. I would be concerned about axle ratio breaks, not your 35" tires.

Eaton's website has good data for part number breakdowns, do not rely upon automatic part number providers online.

Run some good 75/140 oil. Consider one of those finned covers for axle too.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 03:09 PM
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Sweet thank you.

i ordered one along with new carrier bearings and wheel bearings while I’m in it.

im gonna try and Get a cover too.

thanks guys for the input!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 12:45 PM
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Ok so my true trac is here. I also got all new timken carrier bearings. The true trac DOES have a slot cutout for the tone ring thankfully.

i got timken wheel bearings and hub seals too.


I’ve never really changed things in a rear end before. I’ve had the carrier out on a d60 but I haven’t made adjustments. I have a few questions.


I will be reusing my ring gear and pinion. I don’t even plan to remove my pinion.

if I take it out, and put new bearings and put the ring gear and tone ring on the true trac, and then put the new carrier in… will this take things out of whack?

i was reading online and it said to measure backlash at 3 spots before removing the old carrier, and then making sure that it matches when you install the new one. Any tips would be appreciated.

i also keep hearing the term “preload” but it’s not explained anywhere. Will I have to worry about bearing preload on my new carrier bearings?

is it possible to do this without having to touch my pinion?

sorry for all the questions! I’m 19 and just trying to build up my truck but there’s a lot of things I’ve never done. Thanks for any tips!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2024 | 01:56 PM
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You should be okay leaving the pinion alone. You might (probably will) have to adjust backlash to get the pattern correct once you switch to the new differential. Changing your carrier can change the location of the ring gear side to side, that's what adjusting the shims can correct, to get you back to the correct gear contact.

When I installed a truetrac I replaced my ring and pinion (lower ratio), but was able to reuse the factory pinion shim and still achieve a good pattern by adjusting the carrier shims. This was a set of Ford performance gears, really made the job not so bad.

My truck only has the little 8.8" rear so I won't comment on carrier bearing preload in a 10.25". The 8.8" had very little preload: dead blow hammer got everything seated fine with no case spreader.
 
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