When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
do yall think this is cast iron or hardened steel? Is it anyones guess? It's like the only gear available
That gear, since it fits a long list of non-roller engines, is cast iron. If you rebuild your distributor the best gear to use is the one on it. Any aftermarket gear requires a tricky redrill of the shaft. You need to understand how to set proper endplay.
If you get the code 18 on demand, test the wire from the SPOUT plug to the ECM connector post 36. Check for continuity. Check for short.
A code 18 can be set if there is a problem with the DK GR and Y wire that runs from the coil(-) to pin 4 on the ECM. Check it the same as for SPOUT wire. Note that this wire has a 22k ohm resistor near the coil end. Instead of very low ohm resistance it will have the 22k ohm resistance.
This wire signals the ECM that the coil has indeed fired as commanded. The resistor is to buffer the voltage spike that occurs each time the power through the coil is broken. Can be several hundred volts.
just not wanting to deal with BS. I didn’t know they had lifetime warranty’s at o’reillys. That’s a good gig
Read the fine print carefully on the warranties. Not saying O Reilly's does this but others do. Some have "lifetime replacement" not "lifetime replacements". Big difference there.
That gear, since it fits a long list of non-roller engines, is cast iron. If you rebuild your distributor the best gear to use is the one on it. Any aftermarket gear requires a tricky redrill of the shaft. You need to understand how to set proper endplay.
If you get the code 18 on demand, test the wire from the SPOUT plug to the ECM connector post 36. Check for continuity of 22k ohms. Check for short.
got to testing it. Can you explain this 22k ohms? I ran a jumper wire to test pin 36 to SPOUT and had 1.4 ohms reading. Truck was off. Half key it was at 1 ohm
got to testing it. Can you explain this 22k ohms? I ran a jumper wire to test pin 36 to SPOUT and had 1.4 ohms reading. Truck was off. Half key it was at 1 ohm
That is good. There is simply a wire going from pin 36 to the spout connector. You just put your meter on both ends of the wire and got continuity or very low ohms, which is good. You can put your meter on pin 36 and then put the other meter lead on a good ground. You should get very high ohms. If you get very low, that wire to the spout is touching metal somewhere and is grounded out.
That is good. There is simply a wire going from pin 36 to the spout connector. You just put your meter on both ends of the wire and got continuity or very low ohms, which is good. You can put your meter on pin 36 and then put the other meter lead on a good ground. You should get very high ohms. If you get very low, that wire to the spout is touching metal somewhere and is grounded out.
ah okay thank you. It’s so hot out today here in GA, gunna get back to it on a cooler day. I think I am leaning towards it being the ICM/Distributor. I’ve got me a standard replacement distributor from oreillys. Will probably pull dizzy
That is good. There is simply a wire going from pin 36 to the spout connector. You just put your meter on both ends of the wire and got continuity or very low ohms, which is good. You can put your meter on pin 36 and then put the other meter lead on a good ground. You should get very high ohms. If you get very low, that wire to the spout is touching metal somewhere and is grounded out.
Installed a new Distributor yesterday, instantly could tell it ran better. I now need to get my timing light and properly set timing to 10 degrees BTDC, I think I will need to take a white marker of some kind and mark the 10 on the harmonic balancer.. but the truck is running again.
Question - how close do you have to be when it comes to the rotor mark lining up? We couldnt get it exactly the same but could get it a little after or a little before our original distributor mark. We manually lined up the rotor to #1 spark plug before pulling old one, marked the plenum to line up new one.
If you got it to run, decently, you are close. With a timing light and timed at spec, it should run good, But, don't forget, if the chain is old, stretched, on spec, may not be the best.
Installed a new Distributor yesterday, instantly could tell it ran better. I now need to get my timing light and properly set timing to 10 degrees BTDC, I think I will need to take a white marker of some kind and mark the 10 on the harmonic balancer.. but the truck is running again.
Question - how close do you have to be when it comes to the rotor mark lining up? We couldnt get it exactly the same but could get it a little after or a little before our original distributor mark. We manually lined up the rotor to #1 spark plug before pulling old one, marked the plenum to line up new one.
It will line up once you set the timing. As you are setting the timing mark and moving the distributor body, you are also moving the dist in the relation to the rotor. The only problem you can run into is if the module sticking out on the distributor swings around and hits something on the engine and won't let you turn it enough to get it timed correctly.
On the marking thing on the balancer, I always do that, especially since I am getting older. It's best to turn the engine around by hand till the marks are on the very bottom, and then lay on your back and clean up the marks. Then I use white out that you use to correct typing errors. Easy to get and comes with a little brush. I guess they still sell it, I know a lot of people have started using that white correction tape.
It will line up once you set the timing. As you are setting the timing mark and moving the distributor body, you are also moving the dist in the relation to the rotor. The only problem you can run into is if the module sticking out on the distributor swings around and hits something on the engine and won't let you turn it enough to get it timed correctly.
On the marking thing on the balancer, I always do that, especially since I am getting older. It's best to turn the engine around by hand till the marks are on the very bottom, and then lay on your back and clean up the marks. Then I use white out that you use to correct typing errors. Easy to get and comes with a little brush. I guess they still sell it, I know a lot of people have started using that white correction tape.
ah yes good ole white out. I was thinking a white marker but white out would be much better. Thanks!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.