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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

continuing maintenance on the 82 ford

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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 11:30 AM
  #16  
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ok ill check the fuse box, the last time i checked it i had nothing blown. yes i installed a new fuel switch. i can view the fuel tanks via the fuel sending units so pretty sure im getting power to it.


the main problem is the pedal sticking.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...lerator-cables

i am not sure if it just needs lube, or buying another one because its old and worn. i looked at the cable and it has a spring that pushes and closes the throttle valve, its fine and works great so ill rule that out. maybe i can shoot some silicone lubricant into the cable instead of having to replace it.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 03:42 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Phantom Phreak
ok ill check the fuse box, the last time i checked it i had nothing blown. yes i installed a new fuel switch. i can view the fuel tanks via the fuel sending units so pretty sure im getting power to it.


the main problem is the pedal sticking.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...lerator-cables

i am not sure if it just needs lube, or buying another one because its old and worn. i looked at the cable and it has a spring that pushes and closes the throttle valve, its fine and works great so ill rule that out. maybe i can shoot some silicone lubricant into the cable instead of having to replace it.
Dont just look at the fuse but test with test light or pull it and ohm it out.
I have seen where they have blown out at the ends where you cant see it.
Oh wait we dont have glass fuses Still test with a light and pull it.


On the throttle I would pull it and check it out of the truck.
Sometimes at the carb end the outer part breaks and kind of hidden so hard to see.
When off the truck you might be able to see that.
You can also see the pedal end to check it out better.

Then again if off might be best to just replace it LOL
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Phantom Phreak
ok ill check the fuse box, the last time i checked it i had nothing blown. yes i installed a new fuel switch. i can view the fuel tanks via the fuel sending units so pretty sure im getting power to it.


the main problem is the pedal sticking.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...lerator-cables

i am not sure if it just needs lube, or buying another one because its old and worn. i looked at the cable and it has a spring that pushes and closes the throttle valve, its fine and works great so ill rule that out. maybe i can shoot some silicone lubricant into the cable instead of having to replace it.
There is a weird problem that happens sometimes, I wonder if you have it. When engine swaps are done or for whatever reason, the main ground from the back of the engine to the firewall is not hooked up. So there is no ground to the cab and all it's components. Sometimes it finds a ground through the throttle cable. When this happens the throttle cable is carrying power, and it gets warm and sticks. When you turn the truck off it cools off and does not stick. This is a rare occurrence but it has happened.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 01:50 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
There is a weird problem that happens sometimes, I wonder if you have it. When engine swaps are done or for whatever reason, the main ground from the back of the engine to the firewall is not hooked up. So there is no ground to the cab and all it's components. Sometimes it finds a ground through the throttle cable. When this happens the throttle cable is carrying power, and it gets warm and sticks. When you turn the truck off it cools off and does not stick. This is a rare occurrence but it has happened.
wow

yes my engine has been removed and rebuilt in 2015 sadly the guy who carried it out was a bit shady. when i was under the truck i did see a cut wire but its been like that for years ill need to snake and find the source.

so basically what your saying is if the throttle cable is carrying power that means since its metal and a ferrous type it has an em field so its sticking because of magnetism no different then an electro magnet. if the current is off it wont stick but you wont ever find the source of the stick from looking at it because the field is off. what if i connect a volt meter to the cable and test if we got any power.

I did not find any fuses that seemed blown but i did not check the outer side of the fuse just the inner. I place it on a flash light so i can see if any metal is cracked thats my method.

i found some lube on amazon but might just buy it in town because its faster ill try that, if it fails maybe a new cable is necessary because after all 43 years old now i mean come on thats old as hell. i do have heavy hesitation putting parts manufactured today into the truck because the quality is terrible ill just be losing durability.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 08:47 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Phantom Phreak
when i was under the truck i did see a cut wire but its been like that for years ill need to snake and find the source.
That's a good idea. It may solve an issue you're unaware of.
Originally Posted by Phantom Phreak
so basically what your saying is if the throttle cable is carrying power that means since its metal and a ferrous type it has an em field so its sticking because of magnetism no different then an electro magnet. if the current is off it wont stick but you wont ever find the source of the stick from looking at it because the field is off. what if i connect a volt meter to the cable and test if we got any power.
No, Dave is saying that the throttle cable is getting warm/hot and sticks, not becoming magnetic. Emphasis mine.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
There is no ground to the cab and all it's components. Sometimes it finds a ground through the throttle cable. When this happens the throttle cable is carrying power, and it gets warm and sticks. When you turn the truck off it cools off and does not stick. This is a rare occurrence but it has happened.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 11:18 AM
  #21  
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Warm, hot and melted

This is also a problem with auto transmissions that use a cable to change gears.
It acts like a ground cable and melts making it hard or not be able to change gears.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 02:43 PM
  #22  
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alright i might have found the problem: the transmission kick down linkage and spring.


I took the truck out to try and get the pedal to stick just getting out of my yard not even 15 feet the pedal locked up. since i live in the middle of no where i just pulled it over and played with the linkages. the throttle cable connected to the pedal is fine, the throttle kick down level connected to the curb idle adjustment screws were not in contact. i pressed on the kick down linkage that connects into the firewall and it was not moving back and forth getting pushed via the spring. It felt like the carb kickdown linkage was stick but there is nothing wrong or any obstructions or dirt to cause a spring to fail. 100% cable kickdown is my guess...
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 02:48 PM
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Persistence wins every time.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 04:18 PM
  #24  
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alright i found the issue and i can reproduce it. so the kick down cable is connected to the carb right, it has a spring in it and the spring pushes the carb closed while i pull the carb open with the gas pedal linkage. the kick down level cant push the carb throttle plate closed because the spring is getting caught on this plastic inner tube where and the spring moves on the outside but it catches if the cable has any angle on it then i cant depress the gas pedal if its in this condition.. i took the cable off the mount and inspected for damage or some dirt / obstruction and its fine so i twisted the spring and remounted it. i then took the truck around the block to see if the pedal will lock up on me and nothing happened. the engine was not smooth and pressing on the pedal was also not smooth it felt like small steps i had to push though for more rpm and this was very slight.

if i did need to replace the kick down cable i was suggested this item: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-200039 but it does not have the spring so maybe this item: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08070

if the kick down cable is moving back and forward in a straight line with no angle it works, if any angle the chance of catching this inner plastic tube on the spring just goes up.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 07:44 PM
  #25  
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Drive it with the kickdown disconnected and see what that does. You do not need it for the truck to run properly as long as the transmission portion of the kickdown springs to the home position by itself. Just to verify you are on the right track.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 07:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Drive it with the kickdown disconnected and see what that does. You do not need it for the truck to run properly as long as the transmission portion of the kickdown springs to the home position by itself. Just to verify you are on the right track.
Alert! Is this truely just a kickdown or is this a AOD with overdrive. If you have the automatic overdrive DO NOT drive it with the "kickdown" disconnected. Any other transmission, this is a true kickdown and you do not need it for proper operation.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 08:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Alert! Is this truely just a kickdown or is this a AOD with overdrive. If you have the automatic overdrive DO NOT drive it with the "kickdown" disconnected. Any other transmission, this is a true kickdown and you do not need it for proper operation.
i think i found it just take a look:

https://i.imgur.com/6AHevbz.jpeg


I was compressing the spring then i turned the truck on and was able to bind up the spring while driving in my yard. I walked around and played with it, the right angle of the tube catches on the spring. those are my findings
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 11:52 AM
  #28  
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Not sure if this will help, but I found this, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-an-aod.html
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 04:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bronco638
No, Dave is saying that the throttle cable is getting warm/hot and sticks, not becoming magnetic. Emphasis mine.
I had this exact situation with a car being sold for a song. It had a cable-operated clutch and kept burning up the control cable. The linkage would stick, usually right after starting. The PO had changed the cable 3 times and it kept failing. I suspected a missing ground strap for the engine and even pointed this out, but the seller just wanted it gone. I installed the missing ground strap, replaced the clutch cable one last time, and it never gave me any trouble. The poor clutch cable was overheating because it was carrying all of the starter current.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 04:50 PM
  #30  
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Am I correct in reading that as it's using the clutch cable as the ground wire?
 
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