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C6 Help with slipping

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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 12:50 PM
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C6 Help with slipping

Looking for help on where to start.

460 with C6 which was rebuilt by previous owner in 2018 and had 500 miles on the rebuild when I purchased the truck. Truck now has 2,000 miles and the transmission slips just about every time from 2nd gear to 3rd gear right at 28mph - 30mph. You have to barely have any gas for it to shift or it slips and over revs until you let off the gas. Slow driving to normal driving it works ok but any acceleration and it slips bad.

So where do I start for diagnostics? Fluid level is fine. Not sure if changing fluid would help with the slipping? My previous thread I started on That topic did not give me any clarification. So I am looking for help on what I should do stone fix the slippage. Thanks in advance
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 02:16 PM
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Have you checked the vacuum source to modulator?
Myriad of other possible issues especially depending what was done/changed when it was rebuilt. If you google "C6 slipping 2nd to 3rd" or some similar combination of key words, you'll get a number of hits to follow up on.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark8man
Have you checked the vacuum source to modulator?
Myriad of other possible issues especially depending what was done/changed when it was rebuilt. If you google "C6 slipping 2nd to 3rd" or some similar combination of key words, you'll get a number of hits to follow up on.
I checked it as in no fluid leaking from it so the modulator is ok. Not sure about the vacuum or how to check if there is vacuum on the line. Ive googled it before as well as a search on this page but can't get any definitive help or a list of things to check. I was kind of hoping someone had the same issue and fixed it and would advise. No luck yet.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 03:43 PM
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I saw a post about adjusting the band on the transmission. I adjusted the band to 1 full turn out after 10lbs of torque. Didn't do anything, trans still slips between 2nd and 3rd
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 10:13 PM
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From: starship enterprise
So a c6 has a band (2nd gear) a direct drum (inputshaft from engine and torque converter engages) A reverse/low clutch pack a forward clutch pack. I would suggest starting by pressure checking the control pressures and if that is not an available option then remove the pan, oil and valve body and air check the circuits.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:30 AM
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Still looking for help with this. I can drive the truck as long as I baby it around the 2-3 shift speed. If I get on it, it slips and over revs like crazy.

Anything else I can look at or try to self diagnose or repair before I take it to a transmission shop?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:44 AM
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As I recall being told once, a too tight 2nd band will force a slipping 3rd clutch as they overlap at shift. If this was a change from how it was just 1500 miles ago, I'd befriend an auto trans guy of some experience.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:46 PM
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You could have a band adj issue but from the sound of it this unit needs to come out. Likely the direct clutch pack is smoked. It could have stator support seal rings bad,bushings bad ,piston seals bad. No matter what there is nothing in the vehicle than can be done.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:48 PM
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Unfortunately that is the help I was looking for. Either I can mess with it or take it to a professional. Sounds like the truck will be down for a bit.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark8man
Have you checked the vacuum source to modulator?
Myriad of other possible issues especially depending what was done/changed when it was rebuilt. If you google "C6 slipping 2nd to 3rd" or some similar combination of key words, you'll get a number of hits to follow up on.
modulator issues will have zero effect on the trans slipping. All it does is affect shift points based on vacuum. If it’s not connected the trans just won’t shift until the rpm is high enough for the governor to cause it to
 
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 06:12 PM
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I spoke to the shop that did the transmission rebuild. They are about 2,950 miles away from me so no way to have them fix it. They rebuilt it 6 years ago and the PO put about 400 miles on it over 6 years and within the last 4 months we put 1,000+ miles on it. The mechanic thinks its something with the bands being loose or loosening over time from the vehicle sitting. They did an extensive amount of work including a B&M shift kit, torque convertor, HD band, Bearings, etc. I have copies of the invoices showing everything done.

Also they used type F fluid. Being it’s 6 years old should I flush and replace it or would it still be ok?

I guess this is all good to know when I bring it the the mechanic.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2024 | 01:54 PM
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Send it to Jay at Broader Performance.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by somethingclever
Send it to Jay at Broader Performance.
If only I was in Texas
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Deadbuck
I checked it as in no fluid leaking from it so the modulator is ok. Not sure about the vacuum or how to check if there is vacuum on the line. Ive googled it before as well as a search on this page but can't get any definitive help or a list of things to check. I was kind of hoping someone had the same issue and fixed it and would advise. No luck yet.
Follow the vacuum hose to the intake manifold vacuum tree, make sure it's not cut or torn or rotted apart, make sure it's connected, pull it loose and feel for vacuum as the engine is running, you don't even need to drive it. You could just pull the hose loose at the modulator, clamp it shut, then start the truck, and crawl under and release the clamp as you feel for vacuum.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 10:35 PM
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this sounds like basic in frame trouble shooting is out of ball park for this particular situation. maybe he does not even need an old vehicle since the shop rate repair will kill it entirely, If basic checks are out of the question then not much hope. From the sounds here he might not even have fluid in the unit, has anyone checked that? It doesn't go into the window wash opening; it does not go into the power steering fluid opening; does not go into the brake fluid opening; is there fluid and if there is then is the dipstick being checked correctly? fluid level is "fine" I love it. Exactly how was the fluid check performed in order to determine this final outcome of FINE?
 
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