C6 Help with slipping
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 286
Likes: 40
this sounds like basic in frame trouble shooting is out of ball park for this particular situation. maybe he does not even need an old vehicle since the shop rate repair will kill it entirely, If basic checks are out of the question then not much hope. From the sounds here he might not even have fluid in the unit, has anyone checked that? It doesn't go into the window wash opening; it does not go into the power steering fluid opening; does not go into the brake fluid opening; is there fluid and if there is then is the dipstick being checked correctly? fluid level is "fine" I love it. Exactly how was the fluid check performed in order to determine this final outcome of FINE?
Dipstick was checked at idle on flat ground as well as after the vehicle was off. When off the reading was above the full line (as it is supposed to be) and when idle it was in the zone.
I retorqued the band adjustment screw and backed it out 1.5 turns, did not fix. I retorqued it and backed it out 1.25 turns, did not fix. I retorqued it and backed it out 1 turn, did not fix. I returned it to 1.5 turns as factory spec.
I adjusted screw on mod valve, no change in slipping.
I may not know much about classic cars. But I know how to watch videos and learn on YouTube and how to take advice from people in this forum. That is why I am here asking questions. Trying to learn. I also know when people are being sarcastic ą$Sh0lës. Thanks for your “help” buddy
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: starship enterprise
So you can also disconnect the modulator vacuum line and give the unit full line pressure just to see if there is any change. If the modulator is not boosting line pressure properly, the clamping in the clutch pack is diminished. Now, if it clamps better and slips less, with full line pressure, then the modulator may need some help. There is a rod inside that can be lengthened/shortened to obtain correct line pressure.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
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Likes: 40
So you can also disconnect the modulator vacuum line and give the unit full line pressure just to see if there is any change. If the modulator is not boosting line pressure properly, the clamping in the clutch pack is diminished. Now, if it clamps better and slips less, with full line pressure, then the modulator may need some help. There is a rod inside that can be lengthened/shortened to obtain correct line pressure.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
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Follow Up:
I took the truck to a recommended shop in town. They tightened the band down to 1/2 turn which they said is the max. The slip is 90% better its more like a slight flare now, but it is still there. I guess the next step is to open her up down the line if/when it gets worse.
I took the truck to a recommended shop in town. They tightened the band down to 1/2 turn which they said is the max. The slip is 90% better its more like a slight flare now, but it is still there. I guess the next step is to open her up down the line if/when it gets worse.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 117
From: starship enterprise
The vacuum modulator has a job to boost line pressure under low vacuum/high power situations. That is fine, but if it is not correctly functioning then the vacuum line can be disconnected and capped and monitor changes. If the line pressure is way down possibly the clamping pressure within the ranges is diminished, couple with a weak pump and it might not engage. disconnecting the modulator "fools" the valve body into thinking that the engine is operating in a zero vacuum condition therefore requesting FULL line pressure. I am not capable of explaining this more clearly than this.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
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The vacuum modulator has a job to boost line pressure under low vacuum/high power situations. That is fine, but if it is not correctly functioning then the vacuum line can be disconnected and capped and monitor changes. If the line pressure is way down possibly the clamping pressure within the ranges is diminished, couple with a weak pump and it might not engage. disconnecting the modulator "fools" the valve body into thinking that the engine is operating in a zero vacuum condition therefore requesting FULL line pressure. I am not capable of explaining this more clearly than this.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
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Ok so the transmission needs to be rebuilt. It was built a few years back by previous owner and like almost everything else with the truck it wasn’t done perfect.
Should I spend $2k to rebuild the C6 or look at changing to a 5 speed auto for a little more?
Should I spend $2k to rebuild the C6 or look at changing to a 5 speed auto for a little more?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 638
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From: Southwest Missouri
Before you get this thing rebuilt, run a white rag around the front bell housing to make double sure you don't have a leak from the front pump cover. I had my C6 rebuilt and was having similar issues. They ended up just needing to re torque the front pump cover.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2018
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so are you saying it would be leaking fluid from there or maybe just not torqued correctly? That would be great if that was the case and it was an easy fix
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 638
Likes: 36
From: Southwest Missouri
It's certainly worth checking into. I don't know if the front pump cover is just holding back fluid or it plays a role in fluid pressure, since I am not a transmission engineer. That cover is integral to the operation of the pump from my understanding, so if it's a little loose then slippage would make sense to me.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 638
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From: Southwest Missouri
I also know that the shop that did my C6 flattens the front pump mating surfaces as a matter of routine to ensure better operation. You might investigate whether that was done on your transmission.