When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've worked on adjusting the hood about 3 different times now. I am working alone, in a field, in the weather (not in a garagge and and I have no helpers).
So far... I have been able to move the hood Forward away from the firewall and now it is nor rubbing on the firewall area when opening and closing.
At the back of the hood near the firewall the hood sat lower on the driver side and was not flush with the firewall, horizontally, so I added 2 bolt washers to each of the 2 bolts (between the the hinge mount and the hood ) that connect to the hood and now the hood is sitting evenly horizontally with the firewall.
*My next goal, that i have Not been able to figure out yet, is how to move just the font of the hood over towards the passenger side maybe a 1/8" - 1/4" so that the hood will sit on the fenders even running forward to the truck. Has anyone had this issue with their hood and figured out how Exactly to make the adjustments at the hood Hinges?
Judging by the way the fenders match up to the cab I wonder if you're cab mounts or core support have issues. They fit low at the rear by the door and high towards the front of the cowl.... The hood and front clip may not fit any better than you have now if there are pre existing issues elsewhere....
I had similar fitment issues due to failing/ rusted cab mounts and core support rust. If all those are in excellent condition... It may be time to shim front cab mounts, to obtain better alignment between fenders and cab.
The recommendations I've been told and had success with:
Align doors for exact fit to rear and upper jams, then fenders to cowl and doors. Finally hood to everything else. Don't forget the latch has control of how the hood sits as well as the hinges.
Panel gaps on these trucks were definitely less than optimal when new. As a side note I had to spread my passenger door opening to obtain proper gaps at the front and rear.... Made fitment of my door and hood much better as far as even gaps. I have noticed a reoccurring pattern. The KC plant produced UNI cabs with extremely tight gaps, on the passenger door openings, front to rear on 61 and some 62 trucks.
I took the Stroke measurements today on my SCJ 428. Now it looks like a 1966 390PI at best. At least I know now.
Here is a picture of the #1 spark plug, splains why there is a little smoke from the exhaust pipes.
Judging by the way the fenders match up to the cab I wonder if you're cab mounts or core support have issues. They fit low at the rear by the door and high towards the front of the cowl.... The hood and front clip may not fit any better than you have now if there are pre existing issues elsewhere....
I had similar fitment issues due to failing/ rusted cab mounts and core support rust. If all those are in excellent condition... It may be time to shim front cab mounts, to obtain better alignment between fenders and cab.
The recommendations I've been told and had success with:
Align doors for exact fit to rear and upper jams, then fenders to cowl and doors. Finally hood to everything else. Don't forget the latch has control of how the hood sits as well as the hinges.
Panel gaps on these trucks were definitely less than optimal when new. As a side note I had to spread my passenger door opening to obtain proper gaps at the front and rear.... Made fitment of my door and hood much better as far as even gaps. I have noticed a reoccurring pattern. The KC plant produced UNI cabs with extremely tight gaps, on the passenger door openings, front to rear on 61 and some 62 trucks.
Yes, There is heavy rust in the bottom underneath the driver corner area of the cab. I believe there was the same on the passenger side in that same area of the cab.
My bet is until the rust is properly repaired. Your fitment is as good as you can expect. You can usually expect other issues to crop up as the rot and saging continue. Clutch linkage binding, steering column binding and wearing, horn and turn signal switch issues...
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
