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I'm pretty sure there's quite a bit of fan performance hanging on blade design. Some are made for pushing and others for pulling. I imagine the double duty models are like most all in one whatever's, yeah they can push or pull but not really do either well. I know the math supports a pull design also but find it hard to believe that a fair bit of compensation can't be designed into a pusher.
My ECU and PHP tuner should be back from PHP (Power Hungry Performance) on Monday so I wont get to test the AC until then. (PHP was not talking to the ECU).
Anyhoo....this discussion is most curious. I replaced cooling fan clutch some years ago as preventive maintenance. Call me crazy. But only now am I realizing we dont have separate AC fans and yet Ive never felt a lack of cooling in the truck. I suppose that when its hot enough to need AC the engine cooling fan will be turning and pulling enough air. Lord knows its big enough.
Never had poor cooling. Just the current on/off situation.
You must hail from a mild climate that or just dang lucky. I've replaced every piece of the AC system plus add fans and fender vents just to get it decent at idle in this` Oklahoma humidity.
First thing I'd do is make sure the clutch is working - staying engaged and not slipping. If it's not holding fast it could play w/ your pressures.
Once that's for sure up to par, then amend the freon.
That being said, I had a car a few years back that would use a can every 6-9 mo it had a slow leak. And the way I would know it was time to top off, is it would start short cycling - the safety switches would override kicking the clutch in/out because I was marginal on my pressures. So I would get cold, and then warm, cold, warm. ect
Checked the gap. It's greater than 0.045 which is the thickest feeler gauge I own, which is larger than the max gap of 0.030 inches according to all data.
I removed the clutch and it only had one spacer installed which when removed didn't get me close to 0.030 gap. And the clutch service looks pretty chewed up.
Did you take the belt of and spin the pulley by hand? Did it run quiet and smooth? If so I'd leave the shim out and slap it back together. If you've already made up your mind to replace everything then yes the pulley can be removed with the compressor installed. You'll need a set of angled snap ring pliers and maybe a block of wood or rubber mallet.
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