This isn't my first time posting about this truck, but I have been inspired to do a build thread, so I felt like a fresh start was needed. I am slowly building into these kinds of larger and larger projects. I started with my first big car/truck project a couple years ago and learned some good stuff along the way, I rebuilt the E4OD and have slowly been bringing my 1996 F150 back to its former glory. The current project is a 1993 Ford F-250 SRW XL w/ S5-42 ZF5 ECLB and I believe a 4:10 rear axle (2wd). Being a southern truck it's in pretty good shape structurally, and although cosmetics are a little lacking, I'm not really one to care, I prefer to see things run and then I can try to make them look pretty. Early on into the project it was discovered that I had bad compression on a couple cylinders (cyl 6 and 8). Initially attempting to fix it with a new head gasket, extreme measures had to be taken and the engine has been pulled. The good news is I have a new 7.3 IDI in from an '89 E-350 Van. I don't know too much about it other than the seller(s) (who were friendly and likable) said it has been sitting fo about 10 years and supposedly has less than 100k miles on it when pulled. I can't say for certain whether or not that's true, but we did a compression test and all cylinders were around or upwards of 400 psi. Now comes the challenge of swapping parts. First of all, both engines are non-turbo, so that makes things simpler. The 7.3 from the '89 van has some differences that are initially apparent: Multi v-belt setup for all belt driven components as opposed to a single serpentine belt, as well as being bolted up to an automatic transmission as opposed to a manual transmission.

My first order of business is what will I need to swap? If someone can list the differences, that would be greatly appreciated, here's some differences I noticed/saw talk of on other forums:

- Multi v-belt setup vs. serpentine belt
- Automatic vs. manual transmission
- Possible exhaust manifold differences?
- Possible oil cooler differences
- Motor mounts
- Oil pan / oil sump?

Sorry for the long-winded post. I would love a list of the things I will need to interchange (keep in mind I am switching an engine initially paired to an automatic to a manual) if possible, but any/all help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Where are you?

There is a factory IDI+T in a junkyard in Houston still all there. It was dropped a few weeks back.

 

you will need to use the pickup oil cooler, manifolds, engine mounts, and i fi remember correctly the fuel filter housing too.
oil pan you will have to see if it is different. you can use either belt setup, but the serpentine will probably be easier.

 

Oh which yard Hit Man? If it's LKQ I would say forget it - their prices are insane now ($5 admission, wow!). I'm over on the west end of the city a few miles out from the center of downtown. About how much do they ask for those at the JY? I'm content with mine, but I can't help but wonder.

Thanks tjc, I plan to go over to the friend's shop where it's staying sometime this week and assess. I think I'll opt for the serpentine belt for simplicity's sake. I recall you mentioning that I may need some kind of bearing for the transmission when I drop the engine in since it originally was paired to an auto. Is that so? Here's your quote from the previous thead:

QUOTE=tjc transport;21134262]engine mounts may be different, i don't remember. i know the towers are different, but not sure on mounts themselves.
auto trans to manual trans, you will need to add a pilot bearing in the crankshaft snout before mounting the clutch assembly.
while it is apart, you should also consider doing a Luk clutch swap to get rid of the P.O.S. dual mass flywheel setup.[/QUOTE]

Is this pilot bearing not already found on my original engine? Or will I need to order this bearing?


I also remember you mentioning a Single Mass flywheel as opposed to a DMF, what are pros/cons there?

 

pilot bearing goes into the crank to downsize it for the tip of the trans shaft to fit tight in the crank. auto trans crank end is like 2 inches wide where the manual trans input shaft is only around 1 inch.
as for re using the old one, no because it need to be pressed in and out.
they are cheap, under $15 at rock auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...t+bearing,1964
single mass flywheel with luk clutch kit is the way to go. plus it is a lot cheaper than DMF setup
$351 for a complete luk kit: https://www.partsgeek.com/fh77f81-fo...MaAt41EALw_wcB
compared to over $700 for just the flywheel last time i looked at the dmf setup.

 

Upullnpay off 45 south, exit 35 I think. Truck is blue, pretty sure crewcab. SRW. I THINK is a ZF. Real reasonable joint cost wise...they do not add this and that and that when once piece is a unit.

I gutted that '90 that came out there, someone tossed a documented 70,000 mile truck man. Last oil change sticker from '01. Disgusting...but benefit for me.

 

Oh right on, I'm a big fan of that JY. I've only been once but they are pretty reasonable and admission is much cheaper than LKQ. If I hadn't bought this one I'd probably have b-lined to it already. At the very least it could be a good source for parts, although I'm sure someone would appreciate a complete engine. I've heard the factory turbo engines had slightly bigger (internally) injectors than the NA, is that so? It would certainly make sense.


Regarding the LuK SMF swap, I was looking on partsgeek for the link you sent tic which I appreciate, I want to make sure I order the correct kit. The part number for an '89 7.3 LuK kit differs from a '93 7.3 LuK kit. The parts look identical and the prices are the exact same, but they had different p/n. My question is do I want the '89 one since the new engine is from the '89 or do I want the '93 on since the ZF5 is from a '93. Would an '89 (assuming manual) even have been paired to a ZF5 or was it still a T-18/T-19 at that point (and does that matter for my purposes)? Sorry for the slew of questions, second vehicle in my collection, and first manual vehicle I have owned.

'89 7.3 LuK kit: 5329-05430134
'93 7.3 LuK kit: 5335-05430135

 

I swear I read the heads have different valves, diff pistons or rings, etc. Pretty different than N/A.

Anyway, sorry to derail!

 

there is only one injector for an IDI that i am aware of whether turbo or not.
i wonder if the part number difference on the luk clutch kit is for 11 inch and 12 inch clutch?
first year for the ZF was 88.
and my 88 has had a banks non wastegate turbo one it since it had around 400 miles on it.
it is a little over 492,000 miles and never opened up. and i would not hesitate to drive it cross country and back.

 

Wow it's all LKQ junkyards now? We had some really awesome pick n pulls here in MD, and I admit, I was a junkyard junky for a few years.....but then LKQ bought them, and now they suck. I did the opposite once upon a time, maybe 15 or 20 years ago (yikes, feel old to be able to say that), where I pulled a 6.9 out of an old bullnose van and put a 7.3 in from a pickup.....and I don't remember needing anything special, with both engines being present to use which parts worked.

 

Don’t be sorry! Always cool to have more info and learn more along the way!

 

Alas it does seem LKQ is becoming the monopoly. Some LKQs are better than others for sure but upullandpay is far superior in my book. Good to know ‘’89F2urd, I’m sort of figuring this out as I go so it’s good to have someone who did similar.

tjc, good to know regarding ZF intro date. I am new to manuals, I am guessing either an 11” or 12” clutch would work? I may give partsgeek/LuK a call and try to get more info (i.e. give them an idea of my scenario).

edit: 492k mi is pretty amazing. Hoping to get some real mileage outta this thing once I’ve got some time/money into it.

 

Update on the build:

Today in my spare time I rebuilt the oil cooler from the truck engine. Things could have gone better, admittedly I should have taken more care but I was excited to get going and in my haste I neglected to find a proper damper for the aluminum housing on the filter side. The other side came off pretty easily, but I tussled with the filter side for about an hour, finally relenting to using a brass hammer and then a small steel deadblow hammer to give it some encouragement. I tried a torch as well but it didn’t do much due to the aluminum heatsink. Regardless, I got it all apart and used some 3/32 ER70S-2 TIG Filler to clean all of the crud from middle tubes. I have my replacement seal kit from doorman (which for whatever reason comes with 6 o-rings instead of the 4 that I removed), I ordered it a while back and probably would have ordered ford ones if I hadn’t been in a hurry to do so.

 

Little update on the IDI project. My buddy and I have spent the last couple of visits to the shop working on swapping over the serpentine belt components onto the new engine (removing the multi v-belt setup). We subsequently swapped:

- Motor Mounts
- Exhaust Manifolds
- Oil Cooler (which was cleaned out and rebuilt with new o-rings and gaskets)

I have ordered the single mass flywheel kit from LuK, I opted for the '89 year model fit as on partsgeek a '93 was listed as a factory turbo (beefed up internals) and an '89 was listed as an aftermarket turbo. I didn't want to ruin the harmonics and opted for the '89 "aftermarket turbo" version since the engine is NA. Here is the PN for the LuK kit I bought on partsgeek.com: 07-225

I have a few questions:

- LuK kit comes with pilot bearing (not installed), what is the best way to press said bearing in if I cannot access a hydraulic press?
- Noticed a bearing that is currently on the input shaft (throwout bearing? release bearing? same thing different name?), it appears as though a new one is included in the LuK kit. The bearing sits just in front (closer to the bumper) of the fork coming off the slave cylinder. What is this bearing? How do I go about replacing it?
- Finally, I have lost the ignition keys. I have previously drilled out the cylinder, but I'm not looking to do that again, is there a tool I can get to pick the lock? I looked at Lishi, but couldn't find any for this model/year for the ignition. I have no problem breaking the ignition cylinder if need be, but I'd rather not drill it all out again. Please advise

 

Alright update of the week. New LuK kit came in. New fresh and shiny parts is nice on the eyes after seeing the dusty behemoth all day. Anyways, throw out bearing got destroyed in shipping, so I packed the old one with grease to reuse. It has no play in it and spins nicely. Flywheel/friction plate/pressure plate all went on without a hitch.

Pulled the oil cooler off again and found the cooling passages were worse than anticipated (it appears to be a routine thermostat failure). Got them mostly flushed out and reassembled, will run it and use some radiator flush when we have it all back together. Water pump was nasty, luckily the sandblaster made light work of it and it will be reused.

Currently in the process of lowering it back into the truck. It seems almost impossible to line up the crank pilot bearing and the friction splines with the input shaft. I think it may be easiest to pull the trans and get the engine settled before bringing the trans over to it and bolting up. If anyone has any tips for mating the engine to the trans that might help, please advise.