I just replaced all the seals in the doors and windows in my 1972 F250; and I see there is a good amount of surface rust inside the doors around the drains. I had used POR-15 years ago on other projects, which I would not mind using again; but has anyone used anything else, if so what sort of results did you get?

Thanks.

 

I used a product in a spray can , for got name . It worked great , but bought another can & it must have been different brand because it was useless & took it back !!!
I got some amazing paint on stuff from a man that made it in his garage & sells it himself . It is $70.00 a quart I think . I think he is some kind of retired genius or alien guy.......
I put some on my truck 6-9 months ago on some very rusty areas . I do not remember if I sprayed any of the can product on rust before I painted it on , I did clean rust with cleaning vinegar & scotch brite pad first . It is super thick & is holding up amazingly outside in the snow & sun ............
I plan to buy more if you want to get some . I think I still have his contact information.

 

It depends on how I feel and what I use.
On my truck like the roof and the frame I used an acid just for rust in a spray bottle.
Spray in on and let it sit a day or so. It kills the rust turning it black.
I washed it off and let day a few days (frame) then painted.
On the roof I used a sponge to wipe the extra off a few days later did my body work as normal before painting.

Now another project I used Eastwoods rust encapulator.
At the time only had black and U used a brush to paint it on.
I used it on the under side of the hood, frame & skin were apart, painted and then put back together and painted body color.
I also used it on the under sides of the front fenders.
Now I can not say just how well this holds up for 2 reasons.
1 car is not on the road and been stored in a garage.
2 it has been done maybe 20+ years ago but is in great shape (see above).

I can tell you the Eastwood is best to put over rust or ruff surface.
It dose not stick too good to bare clean metal.

Eastweood also has a spray product with a long hose and a 360 end on it for coating the inside of frames or places that you cant get to with a brush.
I have also used this on a buddies hood.It is a 1 year only hood known to rust out.
His was in great shape as the car had been stored in a garage for many years.
To keep it from rusting I used this spray between the frame & skin to coat everything.
I over loaded it and let the extra drip off before putting it back on the car.
I dont know how well it is holding up as I moved shortly after doing this and lost touchwith him.
Dave ----

 

the specific area you are talking about would be tough with this, but i've had amazing luck with evaporust. if you can soak a part in it, that seems to be ideal, but I've soaked rags in it and laid the rags on rusted areas. its reusable and is non-toxic so you don't have to be super careful with it.

acids like Fuzzface mentions work for sure... muriatic acid is super quick acting, vinegar even works, but i can't get over the idea that you need to wash it off with water. it's probably fine, but it seems like you're asking that new bare metal to flash rust. i'm not anything close to a painter or body person nor do i even have the experience to know whether my concern is even reasonable or not.

on the encapsulating methods, project farm did testing on a bunch of them. he was likily harder than your inner door is going to be subjected to, but i wasn't impressed with any of the encapsulating products based on his results.

 

I lined the bottoms of the doors with asphalt-based roofing tar so that NO WATER could touch that bottom door seam.
I carefully made sure all the drain holes were clear and open. Problem solved.

 

Good idea.

 

Phosphoric acid is what you want. I use this stuff all the time before painting.
It isn't a long term solution unless further top coating is used.
Black drywall screws use a similar finish- it is called phosphorus or phosphate.
It will prevent rust in a limited capacity but will wear off quickly if nothing else is done.
I think muratic acid would dissolve the metal entirely and could be very hazardous if not suited up before handling it.

That Eastwoods rust encapsulator is great stuff. I can attest to long term outside results.
I applied it to an area on the back of cab near the rear window on my 1 year old 1993 F150 (in apprx 1995) that had a 50 cent piece size rust circle forming right where the glass weatherstripping meets the metal.
I used the brush on red Rust Encapsulator that was available then to totally cover the rust - even up under the weatherstrip.
Did nothing else to it.
Fast forward to 2020 (25 years later) when I stripped the paint to get truck redone. That rust encapsulator did an excellent job of stopping the rust in its track. It was just as it was in 1995.
It looks like the brush on style Rust Encapsulator is only available in black now though.

They also have a newer product called Rust Encapsulator Plus which I have a can of but have no long term observations about it.

 

The sounds like what I'm looking for.

 

I am going to use this product for my frame and etc...https://nomorerust.com/store/kits-sp...assis-kit.html _ Tony.

 

If you are referring to phosphoric acid, it is readily available.
There are many specialty products that are similar but I get mine from Home Depot and it is called Concrete and Metal (formerly known as Phosphoric Prep and Etch ) About $20 a gallon.

DO NOT let it drip on concrete because it will mess it up
It is not good for your skin but it wont eat it away to the bone either.