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Which FE Engine do I have?

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Old May 22, 2024 | 08:19 AM
  #16  
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Don't believe all you read.
the7 litre 428 intake was cast iron, not aluminum.
And the lifters were hydraulic..
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 10:33 AM
  #17  
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I watched the vedio and although somewhat correct I found it could be very misleading to a novice
(1) All FE engine mount bolt patterns changed from 2 bolt to 4 bolt in 65, not just the 428 alone, basically he is saying a 2 bolt block could not be a 428 and from the factory he's correct. However a home built 428 can be made by installing a 3.98" stroke crank in the 2 bolt 61-63 406 block
(2) I have a 66 dated C6ME 390 block, virtually any FE block dated mid 65-74 could be a 428 block but most likely isn't considering there were probably hundreds of 360, 390 engines being built for every one 428 at the same time with the same casting numbers and similar date codes
(3) A and C scratch are good indicators of a possible 428 but you won't be able to see those with the engine in a running vehicle
(4) I don't know how to identify a 428 service block but the ribs on the side mean nothing other than the foundry that cast those blocks. I have a 391 FT engine with those ribs
(5) Since you have a pre 68 engine this part is no help to you
(6) You have to pull a head off to see those water jacket casting marks, or the center core plug on some engines, again no help on a running engine
(7) Since some other FE's could have that water port why even mention it
(8) Crankshaft casting numbers are good identifiers, once you've dropped the oil pan
(9) Measuring the stroke as mentioned in post above is quickest and simplest way to narrow down the engine size
(10) Maybe one in a thousand 428's built for mid 68-70 production had CJ heads, no help for your pre 68 engine

66 428 police interceptors had solid lift cam and aluminum intakes, standard production 428's had hydraulic lifters and cast intakes
Your oil pan and timing cover have been swapped, oil pan is possibly pre 1965 pickup or later 4x4 pickup, timing cover is pre 65 352 pickup or 330 FT medium duty from a F-600
Since parts have been swapped to fit the engine into it present vehicle the Mercury valve coves may or may not be original to the engine

Again measure the stroke and it doesn't have to be precise, If it's close to 3.5" then 352 or 360, around 3.75" it's probably a 390, near 4" stroke is 410 or 428
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 12:51 PM
  #18  
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Ok - I guess the two easiest ways to check with the engine still in the truck is to remove the oil pan and look at the crank and also measure the stroke thru the spark plug holes correct?
I need to change the oil now as I was able to figure out that the previous owner used a 2015 Purolator oil filter and apparently back then the Purolator oil filter would come apart on the inside. The engine oil looks pretty fresh so either he changed the engine oil recently and had this oil filter laying around and used it OR he changed the oil in 2015 and rarely drove the truck.

Some of my information about these engines I am getting from my:
High Performance Ford Engine Parts Interchange" book by: "George Reid" (see attached) - I had understood that he was an expert on the Ford FE engines - Is this correct also?

I got "some" of my Engine Numbers info from this site:

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ers-1952-1996/

this is where I figured I have either a: 390 or a 428 engine "Block".

To check the Stroke..... am I going to be able to turn the engine slowly by hand using then belts and or fan mount housing?

Thank You Gentleman!!


 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 03:08 PM
  #19  
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You can turn the engine with either a wrench or socket on the crankshaft center bolt, in the middle of the lower pulley. It takes a 15 /16ths wrench and is most accessible from the bottom. Take all eight plugs out and it will turn fairly easy. This is by far the easiest way to check the stroke and identify what you have.
I don't understand why you keep looking at alternative sources for identifying your engine when the answer was given in the first reply to your post. So just measure it already and tell us, inquiring minds want to know....
TK65
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 04:17 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Thunderkiss1965
You can turn the engine with either a wrench or socket on the crankshaft center bolt, in the middle of the lower pulley. It takes a 15 /16ths wrench and is most accessible from the bottom. Take all eight plugs out and it will turn fairly easy. This is by far the easiest way to check the stroke and identify what you have.
I don't understand why you keep looking at alternative sources for identifying your engine when the answer was given in the first reply to your post. So just measure it already and tell us, inquiring minds want to know....
TK65
No kidding.

Pull a spark plug and measure the stroke. All the castings and numbers are not going to tell you anything. Some peoples' kids...... A 10 minute test or 30 minutes each writing out multiple long-winded SPECULATIVE posts that mean nothing.
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 04:47 PM
  #21  
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I been trying get as much info online because:
the truck is at a rural storage facility - the storage facility is 35 miles from where I live so it is 35 miles each way - with city traffic it takes me 1-1.5 hours one way plus I am bringing my tools with me each trip. The storage facility allows me to work on the truck on their grassy field lot during the day time. I live in an apt complex who does not allow auto work in their property.

I'll stop writing until i have followed your instructions and have results.

Thanks
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 06:15 PM
  #22  
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the problem with books is they are full of discrepancies. i have a ford factory service manual that says to set the points on a 200 six cylinder at 35 thousands, and spark plugs at 17 thousands.
anyone that ever did a tune up on a ford falcon or mustang knows those numbers are wrong. points are 17 and plugs are 35. but plain as day in black and white in the ford factory service manual it says we are all wrong.
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 06:40 PM
  #23  
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As many of us in the FE world have come to know over the years is that when it comes to the blocks, just about anything goes. Block casting numbers are basically a general reference point. The only thing 100% accurate is the date code. It still takes hands on inspection to determine what you really have. The foundry would use any core mold necessary to keep production moving. For instance, I have a 352 block from a '64 T-bird that has the rough, un-machined casting bosses for a 427 crossbolt setup. It would take sonic testing to see if they used the full 427 mold, but listening to people with experience has told me that I have a better chance of winning the lottery.
There are also 390 blocks with 428 cores as well. Especially the industrial motors or service blocks. Pulling the oil pan on these motors makes many think they have a 428CJ motor because they also have the reinforced main webbing. However it's just a 390 no matter how you look at it.
So keep posting. We're not trying to discourage you from doing so. It just gets a little frustrating that we've been giving you the tried and true way to identify these motors but it doesn't seem to get you to accept it.
The Ford FE is the proverbial box of chocolates....you don't know what you're going to get!! If the motor is an untouched original, then things like the intake casting number, date codes or other markings make it easier to get an idea what you might have.
Good luck and let us know what you find out!
 
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Old May 23, 2024 | 10:51 PM
  #24  
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This was what I did today - I was able to get the numbers between the center spark plugs on each head ( see attached)

I see from this cylinder heads casting chart that I still dont know which engine it is... lol








C4AE – 1964, 427, FE medium-block. 2.19/1.73 valves, 73cc chambers

C4AE – 1964-1965, 289, Windsor small-block, 1.67/1.45 valves, 49.2cc chambers

C4AE – 1964-1974, 352/390/428, FE medium-block

C4AE-590 – 1964-1965, 352/390, FE medium-block

C4AE-A – 1964-1965, 352/390, FE medium-block, 202/1.55 valves

C4AE-C – 1964-1965, 289, Windsor small-block, 1.67/1.45 valves, 49.2cc chambers

C4AE-C – 1964-1965, 352/390, FE medium-block

C4AE-D – 1964-1965, 352/390, FE medium-block

C4AE-F – 1964-1965, 427, FE medium-block, 2.19/1.73 valves, 73cc chambers
 
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Old May 24, 2024 | 12:39 AM
  #25  
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C4AE 6090 G.

Good heads, garden variety FE. 352, 390.

https://www.fordfe.com/c4ae-6090-g-h...ry-t24574.html

Did you measure the stroke yet?

Almost any FE head will fit on any FE block and work.

 
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Old Jun 13, 2024 | 01:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 85e150
C4AE 6090 G.

Good heads, garden variety FE. 352, 390.

https://www.fordfe.com/c4ae-6090-g-h...ry-t24574.html

Did you measure the stroke yet?

Almost any FE head will fit on any FE block and work.

Yes I measured the stroke: pics added, looks to be 3 3/4" to 3 7/8" stroke

this engine has the: Dual Belt Drive Alternator - of the 5 engines put in 1965 police cars, only one engine had the dual alternator belts, that was the 390 PI. (from what I have read online)




 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 12:17 AM
  #27  
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My stock 352 in my '65 F250 had dual alternator belts pulleys. You have a run-of-the-mill 390
 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 11:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PROSTOCK
My stock 352 in my '65 F250 had dual alternator belts pulleys. You have a run-of-the-mill 390

Try reading up on what engines were in the 65 police cars. "ignorance is blissif you do not know about something, you do not worry about it."
 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by riderboy1961
It sure is. With no less than 3 different casting years from the block to the intake and everything between, for sure the alternator proves everything.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 11:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AZSCAWPION
It sure is. With no less than 3 different casting years from the block to the intake and everything between, for sure the alternator proves everything.
Uh Oh..... another one that is smarter than anyone he knows
 
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