Stryker level kit
thinking about adding that to my 2022 f350, anyone got any pics of a stone grey two tone matched ranch hand bumper on a red f2/350?
https://strykerordesign.com/products/2-5-f250-f350-leveling-kit?variant=40533038661655
stryker bracket, made of welded plate steel, does not rub on pitman arm, has a square washer to set the lift height….so if you later change your height…you will just need a new washer.
ready lift bracket, made of cast, some times rubbed on my pitman arm, if you change your height you will need a new drop bracket.
also note…if you are at a lift height that requires a track bar drop bracket…you will need to do something to restore castor…other wise you will be ice skating all over the road. A lot of folks use bushings that go into the top ball joint of the hubs…couldn’t get my bushings out so I used a pinion arm ( aka radius arm) relocation kit. With a 3.5 front lift and a 4 arm relocation drop bracket I am at 3 degrees caster which is within range …so if I ever do this again I will go up to the next arm drop size so I can get closer to 5 degrees.
coil lift is my next move and pull the spacer.
also check if your shocks will survive a lift that is is at a height that needs a track bar relocation bracket….look at the shocks you have at rest…if there is more than 1/2 of the shock arm exposed…you will need longer shocks or a shock extender. If you have 1/3 to 1/2 shock arm exposed…you could probally get away with up to 3.5 front lift.
then there is the anti sway bar…sway bar drop bracket or longer anti sway arms…if your lift needs a track bar drop bracket you will need to do something about you sway bar.
for best ride, I would do a coil lift, new anti sway arms, radius / pinion arm drop brackets, shocks maybe.
that small aluminum bottom space will probally drive you nuts with the creaking sound they sometimes make. Use a top spacer if your going to do a spacer lift and use the rubber isolator top spacer have a avail so you won’t get creeking sounds.











