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My concern is the truck is running rich and fuel is getting into the crankcase. (Dipstick smells like gas.) I've checked fuel pressure (not running, just turning key on and then off) and it stayed solid at 38 lbs for probably an hour before I disconnected it. (I didn't check it running.) I don't think the injectors are leaking. They were replaced about 10 years ago with 24 lb injectors.
My question is would 24 lb fuel injectors (stock is 19) be enough to cause it to run so rich?
Yes. You have to realize you have one of the first fuel injected engines Ford put in a truck. They had fuel injection in various things for just a few years. These older fuel injection systems are what is called "speed density" systems. They set the engine up from the factory a certain way, with certain components, certain camshafts, etc. They are then programmed for those components, and the computer can only change things just a little bit to compensate for normal wear and normal things that happen when the system ages.
A big change like the injectors means it will run very rich when it is cold, since it is too cold to look at the O2 sensor(open loop). So it looks up in the memory tables how to fuel the engine. The memory tables are not programmed for the larger injectors, so it runs rich. Then when it warms up, the O2 sensor wakes up (if it's not fouled with fuel) and then the computer goes into closed loop and see's that it is way too rich. It tries to shorten the injector pulse as much as it can to reduce the fuel, but it can only adjust it so much. It will then give an error code "running too rich" and then go back to open loop, and we know what happens in open loop.
That is why these older engines are very difficult to hop up. Later on they came out with Mass air added to the computer system, and that made the computer a little more flexible when changing things. But still only within limits.
Then $400 from NAPA looks pretty good, plus you know they will work. Buy from your local auto parts store. I find my local NAPA has the same employees working there some 13 years later. Support a local business and people. They stand behind the parts and can get replacements in most cases in 2 hours if needed.
Agreed. The NAPA near me is the regional distribution center, so they stock a lot of stuff that the smaller stores might not have.
These injectors come with a 3 year 36K mile warranty. (I don't put anywhere near that kind of mileage on this truck.) I haven't seen anything else with that good a warranty.
Another option would be to snag eight OEM injectors from the U-pull. Get a wiring connector while there so you can power them open on the bench and spray cleaner through them. For $15 you can get a rebuild kit for the set (see tip below). New seals and screens.
OEM injectors are the best and can be found in dozens of Ford models up to about 2003. To find these models go to Rock Auto. Select INFO for any injector listed for your truck > click highlighted part number in box at upper right > a list of all models using the injectors will appear.
Tip: The stiffer black o-rings injector seals are a better choice than the softer blue ones.
Much pricier now than when I had mine refurbished, Scott at the Injector Shop does a great job.
So, it's taken me a few weeks to clean out the original injectors, replace the o rings and filter basket, and replace the aftermarket injectors with the OEM. I'll put it this way: My truck stopped stinking when running!
Minor problem: The truck has stalled a couple of times when coasting at low speed. My guess is that I need to have it "relearn" the idle, because it was getting an excess of fuel. I'll try that tomorrow and see if it helps.
While it's idling and fully warmed up, pull the plug off the idle air control valve. It should slow way down and idle very slowly, almost stalling. If it stalls right away, then turn the idle stop screw on the butterfly in a little bit to get it to just barely idle with the idle air control still unplugged. Once you get it set, plug the idle air control back in. It's going to act funny for the first 2 or three restarts and trips, like you said it has to relearn the new settings.
I'll say my 86 EFI will stumble and stall now and then, remember, I don't drive mine much. It seems to only do it as I come to a stop and put it in park.
I have begun to notice it seems to idle a little low, at times. I do recall the trusted mechanic, many years ago, spoke something about cleaning the AIC, but I have never done that. By many years, I mean about 18 years ago...
I'll have to try what Dave recommends.
I have not spent much time investigating this. Dave, is that the idle adjust screw in the upper left corner of that photo ? I just noticed it now, in that photo, after taking that picture years ago.
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