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The technique I used when I upgraded my PS pump (to Saginaw type) a few weeks ago was jack up the front of the vehicle, top off the reservoir, vehicle off slowly turn lock to lock 4-5 times. Check the fluid level and add as needed. I think I did that twice. Then start the truck and turn lock to lock 4-5 times. Don't hold it against full lock. And if it begins to whine shut it off and add fluid. Then start it up and continue. Worked great for me, as opposed to in the past when I would try and do it without jacking up the front. Not even a tiny whine.
If the above method doesn't fix the issue then you'll need to try putting a vacuum on the reservoir. It will pull any trapped air out and to the reservoir. The easiest way to accomplish this that I've found is to use a rubber ball or something similar. A hand primer ball worked for me but anything larger enough to seal around the lip and not fall in should work. Then you drill a hole all the way through, if one doesn't already exist, large enough to push a hose through but small enough to seal around the hose. Connect the other end of the hose to whatever vacuum pump you've got and start pumping. Doesn't take a lot to pull out the air. Maybe 5-10 in/hg should do the job.
I read an article upgrading to a PSC pressure valve last week,
and he said the same thing.
jack the front end up high, and turn the steering wheel "slowly" lock to lock, several times, until it stops whining.
I find it easier to just grab the tire and rotate the rack back and forth. Make sure the cap is at least partially on reservoir to stop ATF from flying everywhere when it burps the air out.
Not science, but just my experience. I've changed hoses, burped the system, and used a closed fill system with a pipe to fill, and I still had whine and lack of power at a standstill. My only fix was to replace the pump entirely.
AAE. There are a few choices on there for a new-new one. Not Motorcraft unfortunately…those are all remans and some sage wisdom from others suggested only going with a brand new one.
Also, replace the high pressure line between the pump and hydroboost with a new one. (Motorcraft PSH 384 also on Rock auto). Easy and worth it.
the pulley is reusable but make a little note as to how far it is pressed onto the pump shaft so you don’t press it back on too far and throw off the belt alignment, but about flush with the end of the pump stub is about right.
Speaking of pressing and pulling the pulley off, don’t get the cheap junk puller kit off Amazon or you’ll be as sorry as I was after about a couple hours of effing with it. Go with the Lisle 39000 kit which the reviews say is very good and actually works.
Not science, but just my experience. I've changed hoses, burped the system, and used a closed fill system with a pipe to fill, and I still had whine and lack of power at a standstill. My only fix was to replace the pump entirely.
crappy pump. New-new is the way to go on those just like starters and alternators.
crappy pump. New-new is the way to go on those just like starters and alternators.
A pump intended for something else entirely, that is the way to go. Even a new pump is operating on the ragged edge when facing the shear weight setting over the tires. Not to mention the 0 caster factory specs call for.
A pump intended for something else entirely, that is the way to go. Even a new pump it's operating on the ragged edge when facing the shear weight setting over the tures. Not to mention the 0 caster factory specs call for.
I should make a disclaimer that for my 2wd front end with a lightweight wheel and tire package, the stock steering system is completely adequate and I am careful not to turn the wheel unless the truck is moving or to over-crank the wheel. On 4wd front ends with oversized 4x4 tires it might be a more worthwhile mod, but I’ve little experience with those. I’m thankful guys like him exist though to figure this stuff out. I’ve been fantasizing about a Horton fan clutch on a rocker switch in the cab after that little debacle in Wyoming.🤣
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