Hey folks - long time no visit/post.

The kids are gone but the truck is still here and I was thinking about adding three gauges.

Not sure what the recommended gauges are but I was thinking EGT (which I already have), fuel pressure (since I don’t think I can get this from my tablet), and boost (‘cause it seems cool).

What I’m worried about is that the installation instructions recommend the boost sensor in a modified AIH plug that has a threaded hole. I deleted the AIH many years ago and it currently has a non-descript solid black plug. So far the smog folks haven’t bugged me about the AIH delete.

Am I kicking the California smog police in the shins by adding a boost sensor to that spot?

If yes, is there another recommended spot (that doesn’t involve drilling and tapping what I think is called the spider).

As always thank you.

 

I think if you put it in that plug you will get it questioned?

 

Nice to see you around! My kid is gone off into the world and I still have my truck too.

I have a Riff Raff plug in the AIH port for my boost gauge tubing for like 10 years. I sprayed it with WD40 and blew some dust on it, just so the new parts were not obvious. No problem passing CA smog since then.

That said it really is a smog fail and I'm just skating by on my good looks and debonair attitude. But like an over boost controller, you just gotta hide the violations.

I recently got a black cheap *** fitting w/o the Riff Raff engraving, planning to swap it in for a less obvious smog violation.

For the other gauges fuel pressure is most important. No way to read that from the PCM and knowing fuel pressure cuts diagnosis in half. Boost vs trans temp is a tossup imo. Boost can help diagnose issues too, but a real trans temp gauge is far more useful than the dash lie-o-meter when towing.

 

You can tee it in line with the hose going to map sensor on the hvac box if you don't want to put it in the spider.

 

I had the same RiffRaff plug in my AIH port for boost with no issues.

All my non-OEM installations were covered in as much plastic wire loom as I could fit to make it look as stock as possible.

Having the boost sensor in there with wires coming out looks like it could be an AIH. Just a plug might have gotten me some questions.

I had 5 gages and never had a problem passing with them (twin EGTs, boost, fuel, and trans).

A lot will depend on your shop too. The shop I went to spent a considerable amount of time (probably 20 minutes) under the hood with a high power LED flashlight for the visual inspection.

Even though they get training on these engines they have been out of production for a long time and are pre-emissions/DEF so you won't get flagged unless it looks really out of place. I passed with everything in my signature...although barely.

If you are smart about things you can have some PMS fun. I was razzed about spending $30 on a code-eliminator pigtail when I delete the EPBV but I never failed smog so that was a worthwhile investment to me. It was more for the visual inspection (OEM plug and I pushed the pigtail end into the wiring harness so it looked like it was connected) than the soft code.

The only thing I've ever been called to the carpet on and failed for is removing the red and green lines for the wastegate controller, and the wastegate itself (I installed a Turbomaster Wastegate Controller). I consulted my smog shop before the purchase and they said it was okay...then 2 years later it wasn't . YMMV

 

I've got EGT, transmission temp, and boost, in that order, top to bottom.

Boost is teed into MAP line, works fine.

For fuel I have a liquid filled gauge that I can hook up to the fuel bowl to check pressure, hopefully it's something you will rarely need to check. Doesn't make sense to me on the pillar unless you go for four gauges and give up your sun visor working.

 

I went for a triple overhead (twin EGTs and boost) and the F-650 lower dash with two gages (trans and fuel).

The pillar was a non-starter as I was not going to lose my grab handle!

Fuel pressure was #2 on my list since I had single-shots and custom tuning with (mostly) stock oil and fuel systems.

 

I can’t speak to the California smog rules but to get gauges on the pillar is nice for easy viewing, but poses a blind spot hazard and I find myself moving my head to look around them.

My truck came with 3 Westach gauges that are each dual. Boost-EGT, Trans temp- Diff temp, Oil pressure- ECT.




Lots going on in a little space.

https://www.westach.com/dual-combo-gauges

I’ve had the truck for 20 years now and have had to change 1 temp sending unit, and the thermocouple for EGT.

Just recently added FP as a separate unit.




I know it’s not exactly what you were asking but gives you some ideas.

 

I ordered a 3 gauge pod, and when I placed it up on the A-pillar,
threw it in a drawer, and ordered up the Edge CTS-3

now, the Edge CTS-3 will read "boost" but it is a calculation by the PCM, how accurate is that actually?

for casual driving, it stays around 2 psi and up to 5 psi climbing hills, truck empty.

that is with the Hydra on 65hp daily driver

 

I had a cts3 and a mechanical boost gauge in mine at one time since mine was making more boost then the map sensor would read. But it was pretty much dead on up until around 23-25psi when map sensor maxes out. So I would say it's pretty dependable and accurate doing it that way.

 

@kintla - what tee fitting is used for the MAP line? I’d guess the barbs are 1/4” but not sure about the fitting for the sensor.

 

i think I just found it - 3/16” barbs and 1/8 NPT 27

see https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3-16.../?gad_source=1

 

**DELETED**

 

Dig those dual gauges! A lot to look at tho. Do they illuminate? I seem to recall the Westachs had no lighting.

 

Yeah… a lot to look at. She ain’t no quick glance for the complete gauge check. The most important for me is up at eye level, EGT. Boost is fun to watch too.


They do light up. It is a separate kit to be purchased which is an incandescent bulb. Mine have the green gel on the bulbs.