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Wondering if anyone has cobbled together their own frame mounted master cylinder & power booster vs buying a kit. My reason for this is I need a larger diameter bore than the kits come with.
Starting with a bracket I found I am not sure what would be a donor for the mini booster? I would just order the parts through rock auto and source the 1 1/8 master cylinder from something like a 70 F250- staying drum/drum for my F350.
My thoughts are, all of these parts were made by somebody. If you feel you're a competent welder and fabricator (or know someone who is) and can create a part that's as good or better than the stuff someone else made, there's no reason not to. Build it to your own needs and specifications, and save most of a hundred dollars in the process. A 2 sided bracket with a gusset is definitely not rocket science.
Over 20 years ago I bought a No Limit Eng. M/C mount that worked with my factory pedals. It uses a Mustang II booster and M/C so maybe you could use the same. That being said I then had access to a machine shop where I worked and now have everything I would need to fab my own and I usually will design and build my own tools and parts, currently building a new bead roller. As I get older sometimes it is more effectice to buy a tool/part than make it. Only you know your skill set, so you decide but consider brakes are probably the single most important part of a vehicle build and a lot of lives depend on them.
Good luck however you choose.
I built the bracket for the booster on my '53 myself, must have done something right, it's been over 100K miles since. I used a booster from a Bronco II and the master cylinder from the Town Car to match my IFS and 8.8 rear end.
Appreciate the feedback. Struck out on the Mustang II booster at RockAuto- the Bronco II they had but with the core charge its the same cost as buying new. I think I stumbled across a solution of parts. Using the above bracket- mount the booster below from Summit Racing and the master cylinder from Rock auto for a 68' F350 Power Drum/Drum master cylinder and I think I am in the ball park for updated/safer braking system for about $220 ish... Concerns is that bolt pattern might be off but I thinking that this should bolt up
Anyone willing to give me odds :-)
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LOL Yes I did, let me find pictures
There's a bit of story to go along with it, and a website by a European dude that I can't find anymore.
That same website you posted in the first post used to sell a different kit about 10+ years ago. The kit they sell you now does some semi-shady stuff that I didn't like: The rod from the pedal to MC is too long for comfort, 2) It places the eye of the rod "outside" the fork of the pedal, not inside the fork....hard to explain.
I didn't like that.
The factory MC is mounted to a special piece of frame that is actually bolted to the frame--not riveted.
... and found some website where a European dude had an interesting idea: modify the factory bracket to move the MC a little closer to the frame rail. But that's only part one.
Part to was what I did on my own: I made my own MC mounting bracket because I thought the one on POL made the push rod too long. They actually used to sell a different kit that did the same thing, and it made it to where you could use a normal length rod. But that bracket no longer existed, so I made my own.
I got the master and booster from a 1980s mustang, I used the upper part of the stock mustang brake pedal lever, I ended up with brakes that took very little pedal pressure, a normal brake application will tighten your shoulder belts, takes a little getting used to but I like it. I think it had something to do with the high leverage pedal setup and a small bore master
[QUOTE=Just Dandee;21209508]Wondering if anyone has cobbled together their own frame mounted master cylinder & power booster vs buying a kit. My reason for this is I need a larger diameter bore than the kits come with.
Starting with a bracket I found I am not sure what would be a donor for the mini booster? I would just order the parts through rock auto and source the 1 1/8 master cylinder from something like a 70 F250- staying drum/drum for my F350.
thoughts?
I have an aftermarket (Mid Fifty) bracket I took off my truck when I moved my MC to the firewall. I haven't offered it for sale since the PO cut a small portion away for some sort of clearance(?), otherwise it is like new and fully functional
I'd be willing to give it away for just the shipping.
I also did one of these a year ago, here is what I pieced together, I have put over 4,000 miles on this setup and it all works good. I also used a brake pressure switch a 3/8 heim joint, a 3/8 couplet and some 3/8 rod threaded on ends, the bracket came from ebay. Master cylinder is 1.125" bore
I had originally ordered a complete kit from mid 50 but weeks after it should of been delivered I canceled and pieced this together because no kits appeared to be available and I think it is actually cheaper to piece togheter , the
Thanks for sharing- am definetly coming in cheaper than the kit but I need a bigger master cylinder than the 1” bore kits offers and it also need to be drum front and rear friendly. In my case with the F350 I am coming in a little small with the 1.125 but thinking it will be close enough….we will see.
Thanks for sharing- am definetly coming in cheaper than the kit but I need a bigger master cylinder than the 1” bore kits offers and it also need to be drum front and rear friendly. In my case with the F350 I am coming in a little small with the 1.125 but thinking it will be close enough….we will see.
For a Drum drum setup you do not need a proportioning valve, you just need a couple 10 PSI residual pressure check valves.everything else would be the same
Well it’s been a moment working on it as time allows. Think the plan is working out alright. See anything about the mounting that might give concern? Helm joint at the pedal and put a slight angle to the bracket - maybe the F350 are a slightly different here than the F100’s. Still in the mock up stage waiting on some short hard lines to deliver.
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