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Old Apr 26, 2024 | 04:20 PM
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Question New Starter Woes

I own a 1977 F-150 Ranger with the 351W engine and automatic transmission, I haven't figured out what the transmission type is yet other than it is automatic. Anyway, I took off the old original starter which still worked at the time but I could tell it was getting old. I went ahead and tried installing a Mr Gasket Co. one with the model MRG-51321BG. That's where it all went wrong I was jumping it off my other truck and when the key was turned the battery sent off sparks and the electrical system in the 77' seemed to blow almost all the fuses and wreaked havoc on the electrical system. I know that the new starter has a built-in solenoid so it only required one wire, and two bolts and it was in. I'm guessing that I put it in such a way that it tried to send power through but the starter wasn't inserted properly and it sent a shock through the electrical system with nowhere to go. I'd like to be sure though and would love any advice, especially any about how to ensure it goes in properly this time. I'm taking the starter over to O'Reillys to test and benchmark it tomorrow because they say they do it.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2024 | 07:01 PM
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Unlike ALT starters are not 1 wire LOL
There is a easy way to wire a starter that has a solenoid in place of one that did not.

Now I dont know if this holds true for your year truck but the 80 - 86 trucks the starters are different between autos and manuals.
I see if this holds true for your truck look on line at any local auto parts store (or 2) and see if they list the 2 different starters.
If only 1 starter then you may be good.

Now for wiring the starter
Disconnect the battery, ground first.
On the factory fender mounted solenoid move the large battery cable going to the starter and move it to the same side the battery cable is on.
The other end of this battery cable should go to the large stud on the new starter. NOTHING else should be on this large stud at the starter.

Now at the factory solenoid using a 10 gauge wire put it on the large stud you removed the battery cable from.
Run this down to the starter solenoid and put it on the small stud or spade that they may of had you put a jumper from it to the large stud the cable is on.

You should have battery cable from battery to factory solenoid then down to the starter large stud.
Set up like this the fender mounted solenoid is still going to work as it did, with less power going thru it, and it will send power to the new starter solenoid telling it to work.

Now there is no telling if you burned any fuse links at the factory solenoid or not?
With battery hooked back up do you have power inside the truck when the key is turned on?
If not then you may have blown a fuse link.

You may have also taken out the ALT.
Once running you will need to check if it is charging. Should put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
Oh if the battery is good it should have 12.6 volts fully charged and no need for jump start.

And yes I had the after market HP starter on my drag car wired that way and worked gereat.
Dave ----
 
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