4x4
You have a 7,5 or a 5.8?
Either way do a 30k service now. Means all the fluids and all the filters, lube the door hinges and window felts
Use the special mini vent lube on the window felts
Replace the oil filter adapter o ring
Pull both drivelines and lube the slip yole splines with the special teflon driveline grease
Pack the 4x4 hubs, wheel bearings and the spindle bearings behind the spindles
If Automatic hubs, use the special auto hub grease in the hub part
Nice truck, one of the best made IMO
Have fun with it
Use all the NOS Ford parts you can find for it
Find a Motorcraft stator for your distributor now
It’s a fairly simple system. BW 44-07 transfer case, Dana 50 TTB. You can confirm the D50, “50” will be embossed on the bottom of the diff.
U joints, you should have x5 total. 3 in the front axle shafts, and two in the drive shaft. Make sure they are lubed and move freely. They may have been changed out at some point with non greaseable, not much you can do to lube those. If changing them out, the RH inner ujoint needs a tool, or remove the differential. I’ve never used it, but there is what’s called the ‘Tiger Tool’ for replacing that joint.
Change / check the fluid in the transfer case.
Check the front differential oil. It does not have a drain, so two options. Use a suction pump to remove as much oil as you can, or remove the differential carrier. Removing is doable, just more involved, but will allow access to cleaning the diff and replacing the axle seals. Is it leaking now? If you do remove, I made a set of guide pins from bolts with the heads cut off to help reinstall when the time comes. If you getting in that far, I’d suggest looking into the steering, ball joints, etc… slippery slope.
When going that far, if original the pivot bushings are probably sagging at this point. If you’re doing the rest, it’s a good time to change them out.
As far as hubs and wheel bearings, disassemble and go through them. New hub/wheel seals are a good idea, and inspect clean/repack/replace the wheel bearings. Hublocks, same thing - disassemble clean and a light grease in them. Don’t forget the spindle bearings too. If removing the spindles have new spindle nuts on hand, and be careful working around the knuckle with the spindle studs, careful not to damage them.
Im assuming by ‘automatic 4 wheel drive’ you have auto hubs. You will need a hub wrench/socket for those hub nuts specifically (manual hub locks use a different type of socket). You can look on torque king web site for the socket (it’s for sale in multiple places). It’ll have rounded corners to fit inside the hub 2 3/4” - performance tool W83246 - I’ll post a pic. You will also need a set of good snap ring pliers to remove the outer axle snap ring and thrust washers.
The shifter for the transfer case can get stiff to move. There are plastic bushings that get washed out and dry up. As long as the bushings haven’t been worn out, you can remove, disassemble, clean up / grease and re assemble.
Im sure I’m forgetting something, but it’s all straightforward. I’d suggest picking up a Haynes manual, or FSM on CD or a set of paper manuals off eBay. Lots of threads on here and other sites for going through the ttb you can read up on before you get into it.
Good luck with it. Post up any questions.
thread suggested Dex/Merc???
Just curious, as I have to do most of the stuff mentioned above.
XL-12 was the next recommended fluid, it’s discontinued.
Mercon LV is what Ford recommends now.
Mercon V is what some are using with no issues. But is not recommended by Ford.
Other using various brands of tx case fluid.
I normally go with oem recommendations, but in this case, it’s a chain gear box, I don’t think it’s that critical. Ymmv.
Next time I change mine, I’ll use Mercon V for simplicity.
2 in front driveshaft, and 2 in rear driveshaft.
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Assuming it is stock, he has the TTB.
X2 front drive shaft.
x3 front axle shafts. Rh axle shaft x2 - inner and outer. Lh x1 - outer.
This excludes the rear driveshaft. He was only asking about ‘4x4’ so I didn’t expand past the front end…
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XL-12 was the next recommended fluid, it’s discontinued.
Mercon LV is what Ford recommends now.
Mercon V is what some are using with no issues. But is not recommended by Ford.
Other using various brands of tx case fluid.
I normally go with oem recommendations, but in this case, it’s a chain gear box, I don’t think it’s that critical. Ymmv.
Next time I change mine, I’ll use Mercon V for simplicity.
when ordering parts tell them you have a 96 F-250 and there will not be any confusion. the problem comes when the parts store counter monkey types "97 F250" into the computer and it spits out part numbers for the new light duty truck.












