When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hope you have a good alignment shop that knows how to align those things and is willing to do it right. Most places these days will adjust the toe-in and call it an alignment. I ended up doing it myself for that reason and I learned to get it exactly right, not just acceptable within the Ford specifications.
Going to take it to the same place that did my 2003 HD Silverado. When I asked them about the price he knew all about the truck. Told me they are hard to align and that sometimes it can't be done due to the traction beam bushings. When I told him they would be brand new when he got the truck he said it should be no problem. I live in a small country town with 2 tire shops and there are actually quite a few OBS Fords around here.
Big pain in my backside finding a place to pop the red dually on the rack after I did the front end. Usually have to find a smaller, non corporate shop with a tech that is not 25 years old.
Not that all are ill qualified, just few have done them. It was fairly easy to have my 01 Suburban done and that is fully adjustable with torsion bars.
Not looking good. Nearest salvage yard with a locking hub is a 3 hour round trip and they want $100 for the hub. Starting to look like I'm in the market for new locking hubs. Not at all in the budget.
You can't get just the snap ring? Could always use a caliper to measurize the other sides and try to order off that of there's not a kitbout there.
is this it?
Thats the snap ring for the axle. The snap ring on the piece i pictured is made from the same material as the snap ring that holds the manual hub inside the hub so its super thin.I just measured it its .030 and over 2 inches in diameter. None of it matters any more as after closer. inspection of the brass piece it has cracked in several places. Here is a side by side of the pieces.
Finally got the last seals for the front diff this morning and got the thing bolted back in. Going to stop and wait for the RTV to cure and test fill it before I put the rest of the front end together just in case it leaks. It was quite a job to get that front diff back in. I have dropped the ZF5 4 or 5 times and would way rather do that than the diff. I could not come up with a way to get it to sit on my China trans jack so I had to man handle it. Picked up the new Warn locking hubs from Napa today too. Surprisingly they were the cheapest after their spring coupon code.
Sweet. Warn hubs are nice. Aren't those who made the stock ones, too. 🤔
I think they are pretty much the same as the ones that were in the truck. Decided to get the lifetime warranty set. If the diff don't leak tomorrow I should be pretty close to wrapping stuff up in the next few days. Then wheel seals on the back and new rear brakes. I went with the SKF Scotseal Plus XL guess I'll see how long those last.
There is 270,000 on the truck. I have no idea how many miles on the stuff in there. I have never had anything on the front off. Both axle nuts were not tightened at all they were both just spun off by my fingers. Every dust/dirt seal was disintegrated all the front u joint needle bearing were welded together. Seemed like the ball joints had recently been changed. Drag link and tie rods are pretty much trashed. Front shackle bushings were worn totally through to metal, traction beam bushings were 3/4 of the way to metal. Rear wheel well is covered in gear oil from leaking. I have to add gear oil every few weeks. Front calipers to me, look like the ones that came with the truck so they are totally trashed. The front diff was leaking. Which At first I thought was coming from the pumpkin, it was really coming from the drivers side axle seal and leaking down. I have no idea if the RTV i put on the pumpkin is going to seal because I smeared it all up trying to man handle the diff back on to the cover. Have to pull the diff to get the pass side axle out due to a clip holding the axle in and the seal was weeping. Its quite a large job so I didn't really cheap out on anything all timken, spicer and a few SKF pieces thrown in. Dropped one u joint and lost the needle bearings so I had to get a new one that was wasted money.
Got the truck set back down on all 4 wheels. Front diff seemed to seal up ok. This is what was done.
traction beam bushings
leaf spring and shackle bushings
spindles (bronco graveyard)
front u-joints
wheel bearings and races
calipers and rotors
brake lines
ball joints, tie rods and drag arm
locking hubs
And of course all seals.
Going to start on the rear now. Just doing brakes and axle seals. No one has the Sterling axle O rings locally except for a pair of Dorman which I would prefer not to use, Autozone had a single Yukon Oring but... There are two sides. Ended up ordering them from Bronco Graveyard with delivery actually cheaper than the Dorman.
Also looks to be quite bit of positive camber. I don't know if rolling it back and then driving forward will change anything. I'm going to call the alignment man and see if he wants me to show up with some camber bushings when I come in.
Also looks to be quite bit of positive camber. I don't know if rolling it back and then driving forward will change anything. I'm going to call the alignment man and see if he wants me to show up with some camber bushings when I come in.
I would definitely roll it around a little bit at least before worrying about it too much. It’s been a while, but I’m wanting to say that’s really normal for twin traction beams and twin I beams when you set them down after being on a lift. Maybe someone with more recent experience can chime in.
I remember, too, that those would appear to have negative camber if you stop while backing up. I don’t know if that is related to what condition they’re in or not.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
