I'm a rookie at this (been a long time since I worked on my own cars as a kid) and I'm rebuilding a 1967 Ford F100 with a 240 CI V6 and am starting with the brakes. I've got rust in them and though I have watched a lot of singular subject Youtube videos, I don't know the ORDER I should perform the work. I'm thinking the below but would like comments, suggestions, warnings, etc.

1. Flushing (or do I flat out empty them?) the current, dirty/rusty brake fluid through the brake lines.
2. Replacing the master cylinder.
3. Replacing the brake lines. I don't thnk I need to do this and would like to avoid it if possible.
4. Replacing the wheel cylinders, hoses, etc.
5. Replacing the drums, springs, etc.

QUESTIONS

• Am I missing anything?
• Is the above in the correct order?
• Do I flush the system and then do the rear brakes and flush again and do the front brakes or do I empty the lines of everything all at once (there are two hoses coming out of the master cylinder)?
• If I have to replace the brake lines, does it just make sense to do all the replacements and then bleed them when all done?
• If I don't have to replace the brake lines, does it make sense to flush the existing brake fluid through the old parts/cylinders before I replace the parts (so I'm not pushing rusty brake fluid through a new part)?

Any help and advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Welcome to FTE. My question is how long has your truck been sitting or was it still driving when you bought it.? If there's rust in the master I would think that it's also in the lines. They aren't that big of a deal to change. IMO you are ahead of the game cause you are asking about one of the most important parts on these trucks. It doesn't matter how much horsepower you have. Because sooner or later you have to stop safely. If it was me I'd replace all of the brake parts in the drums first then as time/$$$ allows replace everything else. But when you do the brakes only do one side at a time. That way if you forget where something goes you can go look at the other side. Don't ask me how I know about that. And we really like pictures here on FTE.

 

It was running and driveable when I bought it though it had been sitting for a number of months in a field before I got to it. Engine worked OK (at least it started and it sounds solid though the carb is throwing gas) but I could tell the brakes were shot. They seemed to either not work or when they did, they would lock up entirely causing locked brakes and skidding. Totaly agree with you on the safety portion and since I'm learning, I figure, why not? Also, I'm trying to get it road worthy to get some advice from the locals and to understand where to put money into it and where not to. I'm not looking for a money pit. I'm looking to learn and get my hands dirty. To your point it's a solid investment to have working brakes. I crawled underneath and checked it out and the lines seemed pretty rusty so I'll take care of them, too.

I'm getting the parts and starting with the rear (including bearings) and hopefully am buying the right parts and am going to replace the lines. I had it looked and and received an inventory of the parts to replace and the shop didn't include the lines but they also didn't include things like the self-adjusting kit which looks totally shot, too (for $14 it seems like it's worth replacing).

Thanks for the words, @lilorbie . As I progress I'm certain I'll be back and include pictures. I'm wondering why the shop included "brake hydraulic hoses" multiple times and I'm not seeing where they come in to play at all. I just read about the difference between brake lines and brake hoses but I'm not seeing the parts they describe anywhere on the vehicle. I'll keep looking, though

Luckily this is a project car and I've got a vehicle in the meantime.

Again, thanks.

 

i have a few thoughts... first i would not flush anything if you plan on replacing the lines and the master and the wheel cylinders. everything that had break oil in it would be new besides the distribution blocks (one behind the steering gear and one on the rear axle)

some things you've already decided to do, i'll just confirm i agree with... i never change brake drums or drum pads without replacing the springs and self adjusters... they are dirt cheap and you don't have to worry about cleaning up the old stuff. personally i don't worry about replacing hard lines unless they look like they need replacing. they typically look the worst near the flare fittings and if there was a service loop, you have enough to cut and re-flare; however, they are cheap and easy to replace. i do replace all the rubber lines. you should only have 3 rubber lines (that's likely what the shop was referring to when they said "brake hydraulic hoses") one to the rear axle and one on each of the front drums.

last thought. the stock drums work okay-ish but most people are not used to manual brakes with drums all around. now would be the time to consider adding a brake booster if you want power brakes (assuming you don't have power brakes since you didn't mention replacing the booster... if you do have power brakes, i'd figure you're going to have to replace it anyways.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that the front drums and hubs are pressed together or at least they are supposed to be. Ford only sold the drum and hub together. If you need new front drums you need to buy new studs, then have the old studs pressed out then press the new ones into the new drum.

 

Thanks, @uzikaduzi & @Crop Duster (particularly about the front drums, those will be next). I'm going to replace the hard lines throughout using a kit and just take care of business since I'm in there, anyway. I don't have the power booster and probably won't add. I'm trying to keep costs on this down and learn while donating blood to the car gods (I can't seem to do anything without getting some kind of scrape or cut...callouses will come, I guess .These forums are great, too, and I appreciate your advice.

Eventually I'll sell this truck and use that money to buy a car I'd rather restore and keep (an old convertible, maybe, or a Pontiac or Mercury or something like that). I kind of fell into this project and got the truck for dirt cheap for taking care of my neighbor's animals while he was on vacation.

Another thing to add to the project list was the bearings which, like I said, I figured I'd replace since I'm in there anyway. I still need to research that and figure that out but this weekend is when I start since the parts are starting to come in (I didn't even have a jack or stands last weekend).

Probably more questions to come (and pictures as I continue)

Again, thanks
=JH

 

So I'm down to removing the axles (and I'm deciding to keep the brake lines because they look to be in good shape) and I'm having a tough time removing the rear-passenger axle. I've seen the videos where it appears that it's just supposed to slide out from the differential but even hammering it the axle isn't coming out. I didn't pay for the sliding hammer but have attached the drum barely and just started yanking on that but to no avail.

Am I missing something? I took the four bolts out and lines are disconnected. Do I need to do something with the differential?

And speaking of the differential, I notice that it's leaking a little and I thought I may put some effort into that. If I do so should I do it now when I have the axles (eventually) out and the brakes taken care of or is that something I can do as a stand-alone after the rear brakes are done?

Thanks for any advice.
=JH

 

I assume we are talking about a 9-inch axle. You can borrow a slide hammer at O'Reilly's or Auto Zone. Or hook a chain to it and jerk like hell.

 

put the drum on backwards and put the lug nuts on like 3 threads... you can use the drum as a slide hammer to get it out.

 

Thanks everyone, for the above instructions, I got the shafts out after a lot of tries . They were incrementally more agressive

1.) Did the drum on backwards trick with no luck.
2.) Did the 5 lb slide hammer from Autozone with no luck.
3.) Added 15 lb of chain to the slide hammer with no luck.
4.) Added a 12 lb sledge to the hammer and chain so I can could a good grip and get my back into it. SUCCESS! Came out easy-peasy

Now I've got a different question.
How do I get the axle bearings off the shaft? Is there a specialty tool or what? If so, what's the name? I've been trying to pry them off after spraying with WD-40 but they're not budging.

Thanks again for your advice.
=JH

 

You're replacing the axle bearings? That requires a press.

Used to be any "good" auto parts store would do this for you (free or a few bucks) when you purchased the bearings from them, but these days....

Time to start making phone calls!

 

Thanks, @Jim_K . I think I can hook up with a local brake/tire shop where I think I can get it done. I was wondering whether a hammer could take them off but if I need the press, I'll go that route.

Thanks again.
=JH

 

One thing you could do/try, is grind or cut the existing bearing down to about 1/4" of the actual shaft. then, using a cold chisel, break the inner bearing (around the shaft) so it can be removed, most of the time w/o a press. We used to do this with the lock rings on bearings that didn't need to be pressed-on (10 bolt GM's and FWD hub bearings, IIRC).

However, you'll still need a press to get the new bearings on, so may as well have someone do the whole job.

 

Can you elaborate? I am taking apart my front drums now, also '67 (2wd). Oddly I have two different drums, passenger side came off no issues but hub/studs is not part of the drum. Driver's side appears stuck on (freely rotates from the pads) but doesn't have the same bolt pattern. I was assuming the drum comes off the hub similarly to the passenger side.



Passenger side - Came off without the hub, note three holes in-between 5x5. 5 stud holes

Driver's side, current frozen - Doesn't have the other hole pattern

 

I think flushing the lines with the current master cylinder is a good idea. You accomplish two things with this step. First you clean out the lines, second you can check for leaks.

Once the lines are flushed I would replace all the rubber lines and the wheel cylinders. If the master needs to be replaced do it then.