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Hello everyone. A number of years ago I had replaced a cracked passenger side manifold with a Napa manifold. Since it came with a gasket naturally I installed the gasket. Fast forward to today the gasket has blown out so I opted to install a ford manifold from Riff Raff diesel, which out of memory does not use a gasket. So far I have obviously identified where the gasket blew out, removed the passenger wheel as well as the inner fender to gain access. Let the fun begin.
Probably not the last time for the vehicle....maybe for you if you sell it and don't buy another vehicle - ever.
Nearly every auto-assembler (won't say automaker since none of them make their own parts anymore) has issues with exhaust manifolds and either their gaskets, studs/bolts breaking, or warpage.
I've used the NAPA (fel-pro) gaskets on these for 17 years on all of my own vehicles (9), company vehicles when I was a fleet mechanic (11), and every customer vehicle before and since starting my own shop (couple dozen at least). The key to success is proper torque, torque sequence, and retorquing when hot.
The first bolt broke, which made it easy to get out from where the manifold connects to the up pipe. The second was hardly more then finger tight. Maybe 2 hours to get this far. All done for today. Had to heat the nut on the pipe Cherry red to get to off.
You in NY? looks like it.
I just did this last week, ended up going with a new oem manifold. Had to helicoil the very front drive side bolt hole, threads came out with the bolt(bolts had been replaced by po and obviously run into dirty holes with impact...)
Yes in New York. Glad you got yours done, although the helicoil was likely unexpected extra step. I was expecting the bolts to be seized by rust in the manifold but to my surprise they came right out.
I try to make it as easy as I can on "the next guy" (usually me) and by the time I'm done putting on manifolds, up-pipes, etc., I'm covered from head to toe in man glitter (anti-seize) that my wife doesn't let me in the house.
I try to make it as easy as I can on "the next guy" (usually me) and by the time I'm done putting on manifolds, up-pipes, etc., I'm covered from head to toe in man glitter (anti-seize) that my wife doesn't let me in the house.
I definitely put the silver stuff on the bolts the last time I did the job, apparently it works as the bolts came right out.
I try to make it as easy as I can on "the next guy" (usually me) and by the time I'm done putting on manifolds, up-pipes, etc., I'm covered from head to toe in man glitter (anti-seize) that my wife doesn't let me in the house.
do you guys know off the top of your head what size thread tap is needed to chase the threads. Looks like i still have my original manifolds and despite 14+ years in California, the last 7 in NY and now with me in NJ have taken their toll on passenger side manifold. No leaks, but rust is flaking off. Want to make sure I clean good before running the new bolts in.
Also, Is copper anti seize recommended on both bolt shoulders and threads?
M10x1.5 tap. Torque spec is 45 ft. lbs. starting from the small hole in the center and working out from side to side but I start at 20 and then hit 40. I'll start it for about 10 minutes and let it get some temperature then hit the final 45 in sequence. Been lucky thus far.
Silver stuff is what I use. Maybe the right thing....maybe not. It seems to help though! I do the threads a little...but mainly the shoulders....that's where the rusting/seizing problems happen.
M10x1.5 tap. Torque spec is 45 ft. lbs. starting from the small hole in the center and working out from side to side but I start at 20 and then hit 40. I'll start it for about 10 minutes and let it get some temperature then hit the final 45 in sequence. Been lucky thus far.
Silver stuff is what I use. Maybe the right thing....maybe not. It seems to help though! I do the threads a little...but mainly the shoulders....that's where the rusting/seizing problems happen.
thanks Cleatus! You do this with engine in the truck? Any tips? I am toying between yanking it and doing everything I want to do (likely $3k worth of updates Id rather put off). Or just doing the manifolds with it in. Issue is I want to do bellowed up pipes and I know thats difficult w/o pulling motor.
In the vehicle. No need to pull the engine. BUT......
This is a lifesaver to break them loose AND torque them.
1/2" swivel 13mm (Strap-On in this case).
After that, use whatever you can weasel in there. I usually have between 12 and 15 inches of extensions and then use a 3/8" impact and swivel to run them out the rest of the way and back in. You'll have to use whatever holes you can find between the frame, upper shock mounts, and power steering lines/shaft to get to the bolts.....but totally do-able. Some folks remove the inner fender liners but I'm a glutton for punishment and would rather fight them than remove those stiff bastages.
In the vehicle. No need to pull the engine. BUT......
This is a lifesaver to break them loose AND torque them.
1/2" swivel 13mm (Strap-On in this case).
After that, use whatever you can weasel in there. I usually have between 12 and 15 inches of extensions and then use a 3/8" impact and swivel to run them out the rest of the way and back in. You'll have to use whatever holes you can find between the frame, upper shock mounts, and power steering lines/shaft to get to the bolts.....but totally do-able. Some folks remove the inner fender liners but I'm a glutton for punishment and would rather fight them than remove those stiff bastages.
haha! I hear ya. I definitely plan to pick up some swivel sockets. Not even going to bother with passenger side though. I am cutting behind the manifold and using torch/extractor.
haha! I hear ya. I definitely plan to pick up some swivel sockets. Not even going to bother with passenger side though. I am cutting behind the manifold and using torch/extractor.
i also have some shake and break extensions for my air hammer. Maybe start with that on a lower psi
haha! I hear ya. I definitely plan to pick up some swivel sockets. Not even going to bother with passenger side though. I am cutting behind the manifold and using torch/extractor.
Have a fire extinguisher right there while torching. Yeah don’t ask me why I suggested this…..
