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Suspension Brainstorming for DIY Earthroamer / Daily Driver
The idea:
I have a 4x4 RV (2020 Thor Magnitude with 35k miles of fun) and have taken it on lots of gravel roads in BLM land. It's too big, but it's really nice now that I've gotten everything perfect on it. I need something smaller with more ground clearance with all the amenities I have now. My kids are now big enough to go in a tent, so mom and dad are getting an upgrade and some privacy while adding capability by putting the kids in a tent. Earthroamers are too big and I'm not quite that affluent, so I'm just going to make my own but smaller.
Where we're at today:
A 450 or 550 with Super Singles seems optimal, but I don't have 150k cash to spend on this project. I decided a 350 or 250 is best.
I bought a 2018 F250 gasser with the intent to flatbed it and build a camper on top. It's a retired oil rig truck that's been beat to hell and back, but was cheap ($20k). For a bit more background, I've built a DIY camper trailer with all the amenities almost 15 years ago now, built a small camper on my Tacoma with OBW/OBA and lots of other stuff, and have the skills/space/money/workshop to weld and build this thing up from the ground.
The plan:
I need a truck 80% of the time and 50% of the miles, and a camper 50% of the time and 50% of the miles. It gets better though:
When it's a truck, it'll have a flatbed with tools in it so I can actually do work with it, but don't want it to handle like crap around town unloaded. I'll just weld it up, most of the conversions are too heavy duty or don't have enough storage, or are aluminum. I crack aluminum stuff.
Half my camping is just me and the kids. I want a "backpack" compact test build that is cab-width / height to refine the camper build ideas I have that will have the bare minimum my Tacoma has. That's phase 1.
Half my camping is bougie glamping with my wife with full hookups. I want a full camper with a huge cabover bunk and 8.5' width so my wife can have all the luxuries of a full Super C in a package I can fit in a state park without arguing with an overly-ambitious park ranger about whether or not I can navigate a site. That's phase 2.
Build Status:
The truck is an XLT cabandahalf with the camper and FX4 pack, so I picked well. I think. I wanted a 350 for the added payload, but the deal on this 250 was worth it.
It's got stock suspension on the front from what I can tell, and the previous owner added airbags and Bilsteins on the back.
I've got it up to date on maintenance and everything's functional now.
Build so far (I bought the truck a month ago):
I added a winch bumper and 12k Harbor Freight winch. My SuperWinch on my Taco was trash, I had a Warn fail and RMA on my JL, and the only winch I've had ever not fail was... A Harbor Freight Badlands, so here we are.
I ditched the center seat and am halfway through making a custom center console out of ABS with VHF/UHF/CB comms in it.
Please help:
The issue is, I don't have Ford-specific knowledge. Any inputs are good inputs.
I'm adding on-board air anyways. There's tons of room under the hood since it's a gasser, so is integrating that with the airbags enough to support 2 tons of camper and still handle fine unloaded or with the minimum camper - or am I going to want more? I figured I'd plumb the airbags in and just add more air when the camper is on. It looks like Firestone makes a front air helper too, so that could be good up front. Liquid suspension is cool, but I can't get stranded, so it's out of the option.
I think my approach angle sucks with the current bumper. What's a good kit for 4-6" of lift and 35s with the previous in mind? I have the bigger wheels from the camper kit and probably need to update the Goodyears, they have a total of 16k capacity when all four corners are added.
fellow DIY trailer builder....it's hard to beat the trailer idea IMHO. do another one. with ford spec wheels.
I'm a HUGE fan of how my 37's on 17s ride. to the point where i'm now considering using it for camping trips instead of the 4runner. Food for thought. pick whatever brand suspension you prefer, i wouldnt think you need a 4-6" lift though. seems top heavy. 2.5" up front. full deavers in the rear with air bags and day star cradles so you can get full flex.
Following thread. Post your progress as you start to work on your camper. I've made a number of DIY truck campers and always like to read about other's projects.
I agree for 17-19 F250 front suspension only two to three inches lift, but do progressive coil lift and not spacers. New track bar, drag link, radius arms. Larger resi shocks all around. I believe in dual steering stabilizer for your use, others do not. Agree full deaver rear is best. Consider aftermarket skid to cover oil pan, cats, and tranny. Since you are doing custom bed, rear winch too ?
2 tons of camper alone will put you over the payload for a 250. when looking at lifts, wheel, and tires make sure they can support the weight you want to carry
I've been over payload literally every build I've ever had. I agree, tires/wheels are the most critical to not exceed because of blowout risk. The tires and wheels will be rated to past the weight and the suspension will be upgraded accordingly per the topic subject.
Originally Posted by honda250xtitan
I'm a HUGE fan of how my 37's on 17s ride. to the point where i'm now considering using it for camping trips instead of the 4runner. Food for thought. pick whatever brand suspension you prefer, i wouldnt think you need a 4-6" lift though. seems top heavy. 2.5" up front. full deavers in the rear with air bags and day star cradles so you can get full flex.
I think I have 18" wheels, but need to go check. 37s with 2.5" lift would still give me similar height with closer to factory suspension geometry. EDIT: Looks like I have the 20" wheels.
I run tall / skinny AT LTs on my Taco and prefer that, so I'd like to find something similar. It's easier for me to pick a line offroad when my tires are narrow and it's all rocks out here in AZ / CO / NM where I'm offroad so I don't need need wide MTs for mud.
What size do you run?
Originally Posted by nitebreeze
I agree for 17-19 F250 front suspension only two to three inches lift, but do progressive coil lift and not spacers. New track bar, drag link, radius arms. Larger resi shocks all around. I believe in dual steering stabilizer for your use, others do not. Agree full deaver rear is best. Consider aftermarket skid to cover oil pan, cats, and tranny. Since you are doing custom bed, rear winch too ?
A 2nd for Deavers / airbags is good confirmation - thanks. I was under the impression for 2" lift I wouldn't need radius arms, but track bar / drag link will improve ride. Is that accurate? With your post and hondax250titan's post, I'm thinking tires and a smaller lift will accomplish the same with less work.
I won't armor up this build much. I'm planning on avoiding rock gardens where I can to prevent damage. I high centered my Taco frequently (DCLB on 33s and a 2.5" lift). I would use the hilift and just lift a whole side from the rock sliders to stack rocks and get unstuck. I'm under the impression that's not an option with the 250 because of weight, I haven't seen anything but cab mount sliders.
I'm going to stick with one winch up front due to weight. I see the utility for a rear winch, but don't think my use case justifies the cost and weight. Worse case I can always get out the ****** block and a tree strap to pull from an off angle.
Thanks for the ideas - keep them coming.
Last edited by Synaps3; Apr 15, 2024 at 09:19 AM.
Reason: Updated wheel size
Track bar should be adjustable track bar for the lift. New track bar and drag link do improve ride because the bushings wear out and cause slop in the steering. They make some good 37×11.5 AT tires. The 11.5 tire width gives you better rim width options. New adjustable radius arms are to address caster loss. Can use drop brackets instead. Can try new caster shims too, but best to address caster loss with radius arms. New radius arms are cut to avoid 37" diameter tire rub.
i'm on 37x12.50r17's. skinny and tall. (our 4runner is on 34x10.5r17 pizza cutter gang) stock radius arms. added carli caster shims.
i enjoy the icon 2.5" coils up front. theyve been great. carli track bar and a handful of other carli add on parts. i'm using the add a pack and its great for hard hits but otherwise it feels stock. (retains OEM load spec so no air bags for me)
i went cheap and did fox 2.0's. off the shelf. nothing fancy. they get the job done. id splurge on the big boy shocks though.
oh...tremor sway bar also helped. and kryptonite sway bar drop brackets. the carli ones are dumb over priced.
Just wanted to follow up in case anyone else is looking for feedback for a similar setup.
I ended up getting a BDS 4" kit with radius arms. I'm still dialing things in to get it perfect, but won't be able to until the camper is fully built...
Air Lift load lifter airbags, hooked to OBA with cab controls and a viair agricultural grade compressor (forgot model, I got it for the 100% duty cycle)
SuperSprings SSS-3 spacer to engage the overload sooner
Rough Country 2" wheel spacers (required to not rub wheel on passenger radius arm)
Nitto Ridge Grapplers. 37x11.50r20 on factory wheels
I need to get a beefier set of rear shocks once the weight is final.
Here's a picture of the build so far. I ditched the idea of having the camper removable to save weight and accepted the fact that I'll just daily drive a big RV... I just tow my cargo trailer if I need to carry anything big. I still have a long to-do list on it, but I've been driving it around like this since around June of last year. The configuration above probably has 8000 miles on it.
Just wanted to follow up in case anyone else is looking for feedback for a similar setup.
I ended up getting a BDS 4" kit with radius arms. I'm still dialing things in to get it perfect, but won't be able to until the camper is fully built...
Air Lift load lifter airbags, hooked to OBA with cab controls and a viair agricultural grade compressor (forgot model, I got it for the 100% duty cycle)
SuperSprings SSS-3 spacer to engage the overload sooner
Rough Country 2" wheel spacers (required to not rub wheel on passenger radius arm)
Nitto Ridge Grapplers. 37x11.50r20 on factory wheels
I need to get a beefier set of rear shocks once the weight is final.
Here's a picture of the build so far. I ditched the idea of having the camper removable to save weight and accepted the fact that I'll just daily drive a big RV... I just tow my cargo trailer if I need to carry anything big. I still have a long to-do list on it, but I've been driving it around like this since around June of last year. The configuration above probably has 8000 miles on it.