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Hi everybody. I’ve been finally getting a chance to get back to work at putting together my 1956 f100. I purchased a CPP frame mount brake booster and had the clutch/brake assembly pulled apart. I have it all back together except for the last part inline… the clutch pedal. I managed to get it on and with a little (a lot) of persuasion with a hammer got it almost on. My problem is I have about 1/8” to go in order to get the pin in and no matter what I’m doing I can’t get this pedal to budge. Do you guys have any solutions or tips?
sadly just taking it off and starting again may not be the answer as that I can’t imagine how the hell I took it off in the first place, too tight of a fit.
thanks in advance for your help!
Probably need to test fit the shaft alone through the brake pedal and the bushing in the frame bracket, it should be a fairly easy fit.
Everything fits perfectly with no issue all the way up to the clutch pedal. Equalizer bar, him joint to master cylinder, brake pedal, washers, through frame. The clutch pedal, the “last piece of the puzzle” is hanging me up.
Originally Posted by lshort
Just curious, are you using the stock transmission?
Yes, but also using the stock shaft
Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
To the Op, attach some photos so we see what you’re seeing. That will help us provide some useful info and suggestions.
Will do, I posted this from work. It’s been weighting on my mind haha.
I do have some pics of the everything inside the frame under the cab, please ignore the bolt holing the brake assembly, it is hitting the “equalizer” (?)… it will be delt with. This issue is on the other side of the frame where the clutch mounts.
I think that the way that I did it was I put the clutch pedal on the shaft first which does fit tight on the bench, then slid the shaft through the bracket and then put the spring and the clutch piece on last with the roll pin not saying that is the correct way, I also had the cab off which makes it much easier.
I think that the way that I did it was I put the clutch pedal on the shaft first which does fit tight on the bench, then slid the shaft through the bracket and then put the spring and the clutch piece on last with the roll pin not saying that is the correct way, I also had the cab off which makes it much easier.
I think that may be the way to do things. Stupid question because I’m pretty green here… do I just drill out ones side of that pin and pop the pin out the other side and slide that hook off?
then get a new roll pine and peen both ends to put back on
I think that may be the way to do things. Stupid question because I’m pretty green here… do I just drill out ones side of that pin and pop the pin out the other side and slide that hook off?
then get a new roll pine and peen both ends to put back on
If you have the right size punch, the pin should just drive out without drilling.
So, to complete this for anybody looking for a solution. Of course there is always more than one way to skin a cat but this worked for me. I had a friend come over and we loosened the pedal back off the shaft. One of us held the equalizer bar stable with an adjustable wrench and the other worked the clutch pedal back and forth. Worked it back and forth until it felt a little looser and the applied a little pressure behind the pedal (frame side) with a pry bar while continuing the work it back and forth. Eventually it popped off. Once off cleaned out the hole and the pin hole with emory cloth and chamfered the edges with a carbide bit. Cleaned up the shaft with empty cloth as well. We used a bit of grease and the clutch pedal slid on without much effort. The next area of issue was the pin but that worked in by being able to move the arm back and forth while coaxing the pin in. What was happening was the pin was getting caught around the area where the threads ends and there is a ledge on the pin. I hope this may help somebody else who may run into this issue. Thanks for all the help guys!
Edit: I just realized you don't have the light-duty 3-speed. You might have to modify the shift arms on the transmission or fabricate new ones to get proper alignment. Maybe.
The shift linkage should not be passing through the clutch linkage.
The long arm goes on the front of the transmission, the short on the back. Then the shifter linkages are staggard: Front on the transmission side of the shift arm, Rear on the outside.
Another angle of the shift arm/clutch linkage configuration:
It looks like you're missing the rolled pin that holds the clutch arm to the clutch shaft:
Also: if you flip the bracket on the transmission, it gives you more room to work from underneath.
