Pulling right at high speeds
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Cross-Country
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Pulling right at high speeds
2002 F-250 7.3, at highway speeds (I'd say above 60mph), it pulls right. It may be present at lower speeds, but it isn't very noticeable, at least not until your at maybe 40mph.
Had the alignment checked, had steering/suspension tightened; had wheel bearings checked, had brakes checked, had ball joints checked; steering stabilizer is new; brake fluid recently flushed and replaced. I'm told that the parking brake can be the culprit sometimes - that the centrifugal force at higher speeds can start to engage a parking brake that isn't performing well - is this true? Should I try having the parking brake assemblies replaced?
Had the alignment checked, had steering/suspension tightened; had wheel bearings checked, had brakes checked, had ball joints checked; steering stabilizer is new; brake fluid recently flushed and replaced. I'm told that the parking brake can be the culprit sometimes - that the centrifugal force at higher speeds can start to engage a parking brake that isn't performing well - is this true? Should I try having the parking brake assemblies replaced?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Near Yosemite CA
Personally, I've never had a parking brake cause pulling, on my older trucks, I have had the front rubber brake lines that have deteriorated inside cause the brakes not to release completely and drag... centrifugal force is not going to engage the parking brake, as the shoes are stationary and not subject to centrifugal force...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2019
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From: San Diego, CA
I'll put money on that your front right brake caliper is seizing. Common issue unfortunately. You can pull it off yourself and try to push in the piston to feel it. Just went through with this on my wife's SUV.
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Cross-Country
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That's what my initial suspicion was, but I don't think that's it for 2 reasons: 1) It was previously pulling left due to a seizing brake pad, and when it did that, the pad would get real hot and smoke and create a burning smell, plus it would stop pulling when I applied the brakes because now brakes on both sides were being applied. None of those symptoms or behaviors are present. 2) when I had that problem fixed, I had them replace the brake pads, rotors, and calipers on both sides. What else could it be?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2019
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From: San Diego, CA
That's what my initial suspicion was, but I don't think that's it for 2 reasons: 1) It was previously pulling left due to a seizing brake pad, and when it did that, the pad would get real hot and smoke and create a burning smell, plus it would stop pulling when I applied the brakes because now brakes on both sides were being applied. None of those symptoms or behaviors are present. 2) when I had that problem fixed, I had them replace the brake pads, rotors, and calipers on both sides. What else could it be?
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Cross-Country
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Could it be the rear right wheel bearing, or do those never fail? I ask because I had the front ones replaced less than 2 years ago with lifetime warranty TIMKENs.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Stephensville WI
Rotate your tires, check the tire pressure, then test the truck again. A bad tire can often cause a pull at speed.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2019
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From: San Diego, CA
Abnormal wear which usually caused by bad alignment, or just a cheap tire over time. Usually results in vibration.
I'd probably still lean towards a failing wheel bearing. Possibly bad alignment, ball joints or tie rod ends...
I did have a pull once because my track bar was too short and the front axle had been pulled slightly off center after a lift (this was on a different vehicle).
I'd probably still lean towards a failing wheel bearing. Possibly bad alignment, ball joints or tie rod ends...
I did have a pull once because my track bar was too short and the front axle had been pulled slightly off center after a lift (this was on a different vehicle).
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Cross-Country
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I'll have to try swapping the tires then. The tie rod ends, ball joints, and front wheel bearings are pretty new my track bar, however, is adjustable, and I did recently have the truck lowered from a 6" to a 4" lift - is it possible the mechanic didn't adjust the track bar correctly? Is there a way I can fix that on my own?
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Cross-Country
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Tire rotation
Soooo shortening the track bar (by cutting) did successfully realign the axle, but it did not affect the pulling issue.
I rotated the tires (back ones straight forward, front ones crossing backwards), put them all at 55psi, and that had a big impact.
Driving at 60mpg without touching the wheel used to mean readjusting trajectory toward the divider line every 5 seconds, but now it's more like 10. Maybe crossing the (now) front tires over would finish it off, but I'm calling it as it isn't overly annoying anymore.
I rotated the tires (back ones straight forward, front ones crossing backwards), put them all at 55psi, and that had a big impact.
Driving at 60mpg without touching the wheel used to mean readjusting trajectory toward the divider line every 5 seconds, but now it's more like 10. Maybe crossing the (now) front tires over would finish it off, but I'm calling it as it isn't overly annoying anymore.
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GuitarJesus
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Apr 25, 2014 02:48 PM