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Hello, about a week ago I replaced the injectors on my truck (1989 F250 5.8). Since then it'll run good for a little while, then a few miles later it'll have a loss in power. It sounds like it has a misfire and just overall runs bad. Sometimes when it's running bad it stutters and hesitates whilst accelerating or going up hills. When I roll to a stop sign or stoplight the rpm will drop to roughly 500, the engine died twice. From there it'll run good (like really good), no hesitation or stuttering, until I come to another stop sign/light, rpm drops, and back to running bad. I'll also add that the engine turns over longer than it used too. (Albeit that started after i replaced the TFI module, so probably no related to this.) There's no CEL. Honestly I'm at wits end with this thing 😂. I ordered an OBD1 scanner, hopefully that helps. Until I get that I am open to any suggestions. (Ok enough of my yapping) TIA!
Hello, about a week ago I replaced the injectors on my truck (1989 F250 5.8). Since then it'll run good for a little while, then a few miles later it'll have a loss in power. It sounds like it has a misfire and just overall runs bad. Sometimes when it's running bad it stutters and hesitates whilst accelerating or going up hills. When I roll to a stop sign or stoplight the rpm will drop to roughly 500, the engine died twice. From there it'll run good (like really good), no hesitation or stuttering, until I come to another stop sign/light, rpm drops, and back to running bad. I'll also add that the engine turns over longer than it used too. (Albeit that started after i replaced the TFI module, so probably no related to this.) There's no CEL. Honestly I'm at wits end with this thing 😂. I ordered an OBD1 scanner, hopefully that helps. Until I get that I am open to any suggestions. (Ok enough of my yapping) TIA!
Pull the codes. Troubleshoot the parts flagged by the codes. Don't replace parts until you've done thorough troubleshooting.
Vacuum lines are easy to replace one at a time with 5/32" rubber hose.
Electrical connections at the battery and fender mounted starter relay (aka solenoid) are easy to clean up, and while you're there clean the connection to the engine block and frame ground from the battery negative terminal.
I use the red Haynes manual. There are better manuals out there but that works for me.
It's hard to find a problem that hasn't been solved on forums like this one.
Pull the codes. Troubleshoot the parts flagged by the codes. Don't replace parts until you've done thorough troubleshooting.
Vacuum lines are easy to replace one at a time with 5/32" rubber hose.
Electrical connections at the battery and fender mounted starter relay (aka solenoid) are easy to clean up, and while you're there clean the connection to the engine block and frame ground from the battery negative terminal.
I use the red Haynes manual. There are better manuals out there but that works for me.
It's hard to find a problem that hasn't been solved on forums like this one.
Thank you, now I know where to start 😂. Yeah I'm definitely not replacing anything until I get the scanner. Would I still get codes even though there's no check engine light?
Yes you can. That is why we suggest to run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code display.
So I ran the KOEO and got codes 10, 11, and 33 C. To my knowledge 10 and 11 aren't really fault codes? Anyway I also did a KOER test and got codes cyl - 4, 41 R, 33 R, and 18 R.
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