i have heard that the 347 stroker is a bad motor because of some major problems. what are the problems.

 

347 is good as long as attention is paid to if the wrist pin intersects the oil ring which happens with most stroker kits...gives the motor an oil burner tag. I belive Panhandle Performance in Florida makes 347 Stroker kits with special pistons that avoid that problem. Also I know of builders using seamless piston ring sets that also help oil control.

 

331 is almost as large and has a better wrist pin angle, so you end up with a a "stronger" motor for less $$$. Some people love 347, some hate it. I almost built one, but never did, so I better stop talking.

 

i am not going to build one but i was just curious. what about a 460 stroke to a 514 is there any problems with that.

 

the only thing wrong with stroker motor's are two basic things for the old stroker kits the wrist pin intersects with the oil ring, even on the big blocks. Now days that problem has been solved. another thing is that with the increased stroke comes with an increase 'initial' acceleration angle. What i am trying to say is that you cylinder walls were turn egged shaped faster than a conventional stoke due to increased lateral forces on the cylinder walls. But from personally owning a 347 i would say

 

I have also said the same thing about the 347's being oil burners. But while doing my research for my stroker project lately I have learned about the new designs.

With the 347, look for the pistons that use a 5.315" rod. These have taller compression heights and keep the pin out of the oil land.

Look at this example:
The sets for the 5.4" rod require an oil rail spacer - the sets for the 5.315 do not. Also not the compression heights of the two.
Probe Pistons

And no, I haven't changed my mind about building the 418.

 

I built a 342 (std bore 347) and the oil ring groove slightly intersects the wrist pin hole....I don't have bore scratching as a problem.

the problem with most strokers is that the lands between the ring grooves are closer, making the piston weaker for forced induction applications...making the 331 a better choice for forced induction.

earlier stroker designs did not incorporate the oil ring reinforcement allowing the oil ring to flex excessively scratching the bores and creatings oil control/consumption problems. My pistons/rings came with it so no worries there.

If torque is what you want....in a small block package, 3.4 inch stroke is what you want. There are the slightly shorter rod kits that will eliminate the intersection problem.....for those who are paranoid....

so far, I have not seen any scoring of the bores....

Among my theories of the lack of the hyped problems....
good quality components...
Ross pistons, total seal piston rings, Eagle rods and Crank, tight tolerance machining and lightening of crank with balancing being a must.

bottom line is if you want to do it right, don't cut corners.

I did it right and the engine pumps out over 440hp and just about 400 ft lbs of torque on the water brake dyno, revs freely and instantly...no oil consumption has been noticed.

The 331 is a more ideal build up for people with a std block....I got the high dollar SVO R302 block...which can be bored to .120 inch oversized so wear and tear doesn't worry me.

I think the stroker hype is the result of people going out and buying the cheapest kit they can lay their eyes on.....it is a hard lesson to learn
"you get what you pay for" comes to mind.

Stay clear from Probe and CHP kits....once they have your money, you are immediately a burden should any issues come up. They don't stand behind their product.

The success of any project depends on research and development.

 

what cam are you running lift and duration @50. just wondering.

 

Capone

I agree that you get what you pay for. However, I wouldn't tell anybody to stay away from Pobe piston's. It is best to arm yourself with knowledge from doing all the research you can before making a purchase. Knowing exactly what you want and need will eliminate future problems. I found that piecing together a combo is the best way to insure you get what you want instead of a compromised kit. The only thing 'good' about a kit is they are quick and easy to order...again you get what you pay for, convenience.

 

Moneypit,

re:I agree that you get what you pay for. However, I wouldn't tell anybody to stay away from Pobe piston's. It is best to arm yourself with knowledge from doing all the research you can before making a purchase.
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I made the mistake of going this route....and speak from experience.

I would stay away from these two....and by saying it, I am merely sharing my experience. If you want to give someone your money
and waste your time, go for it.

I also don't like to spend lots of time under the hood, which is why good quality components are the way to go.

Just because you pay for convenience doesn't mean you're gonna get it.

 

I also don't like to spend lots of time under the hood, which is why good quality components are the way to go.

Just because you pay for convenience doesn't mean you're gonna get it.
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My point exactly.
I wouldn't order a kit from them either (or anyone else), but I would buy their pistons if it fit my application.