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Help it won't run!

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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:30 PM
  #1  
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Help it won't run!

I have an 88 f250 with a 351
just got this truck was sitting for 8 years it starts and runs on starter fluid won't keep running. I dropped the tanks cleaned them thoroughly replaced the tank pump, the frame rail pump, the filter, and the throttle body with new TPS it will start and run for about a minute then seems to run out of gas I can keep it running with starter fluid checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail is
10 with key on, and 30 when trying to run. Has got clean fuel at the rail.
why won't it run?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 88f351
… fuel pressure at the fuel rail is
10 with key on, and 30 when trying to run. Has got clean fuel at the rail.
why won't it run?
Because you don’t have enough fuel pressure.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 04:52 AM
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Your fuel pump might look like this one with the ruptured hose

 
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 10:03 AM
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Assuming the new pumps are good, it could be a bad regulator.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2024 | 11:05 PM
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Help it won't run!

I think I narrowed it down to the
FPR , but is it possible to remove it without removing the fuel rail.
There has got to be a secret I don't kno. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 05:39 AM
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This guy must be using a magnetized bit. If I tried leaving the bit hanging like that, it would fall into some obscure place where I couldn't reach it ...
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 05:52 AM
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After the first thousand you replace they get easier (recall after recall on those FPRs)
I use a bit in a offset 1/4 inch ratchet wrench (school of hard knocks)
The bit I use has some weld spatter on it (purposely) and it will not pass through the offset wrench
You can achieve just about the same effect with tape
Wrap the insert with tape and it will stay in your wrench
Have fun
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 05:54 AM
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I forgot to mention to cut your bit down (make it shorter) that makes the job way easier
 
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Old May 3, 2024 | 06:04 PM
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Help it still won't start!

First thank you guys so much for the help! I've tried everything let's review
I got this truck it had sat for 8 years
when I got it it would start and run on starter fluid but I could smell the bad gas towed it home put a new battery, starter, dropped both tank's cleaned them thoroughly replaced both tank pumps, replaced the frame rail pump and the filter I had 30psi at the fuel rail for several seconds then only 10 psi so I pulled the fuel rail replaced the FPR and put 8 new injectors in (almost forgot replaced the throttle body, TPR and the Idle air valve) same results No start! I guess I should start by saying I'm not a mechanic I was in 1976-83 before
computer's back then a no start was simple Spark/timing Fuel and Compression. I'm at a loss!
 
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Old May 4, 2024 | 09:54 AM
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Fuel injection is not much of a leap for a guy like you
Dual tanks fuel delivery problems with two new fuel pumps means the crossover valve is usually the problem (It still runs on starting fluid right?)
Both rear tank low pressure pumps need to be able to provide the high pressure frame pump with adequate fuel
Take a fuel sample and test the volume coming out of each pump before the crossover valve
Do that same test again after the crossover valve
Your fuel might be black with dried varnish if you did not get the tanks clean enough, it might have plugged both gas tank socks
Keep the fuel pressure gauge on the truck until you get it figured out`
 
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Old May 4, 2024 | 11:04 PM
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Help it won't run!

OK I think I've narrowed it down I have no
fuel pressure at the rail I got under it and pulled the fuel line from the tank to the HP pump, jumped the tank pumps and nothing they are both new pumps I cleaned the tanks really good I'm gonna pull the bed tomorrow, DC the fuel lines from each tank pump jumped and see if it's the new pumps if it's not then it must be obstructed between the tank and the HP pump, I kno I must be getting close! Oh yeah what's that
canister on the frame between the tanks and the HP pump could that be My problem. Thank you guys for all the help especially 007 is that the tank selector valve you mentioned if not whare is that valve located
Thanks again
 
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Old May 5, 2024 | 04:25 AM
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That tank selector canister is the crossover valve
Take fuel samples and do the fuel volume test on both sides of that valve
 
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Old May 5, 2024 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 88f351
OK I think I've narrowed it down I have no
fuel pressure at the rail I got under it and pulled the fuel line from the tank to the HP pump, jumped the tank pumps and nothing they are both new pumps

I cleaned the tanks really good I'm gonna pull the bed tomorrow, DC the fuel lines from each tank pump jumped and see if it's the new pumps if it's not then it must be obstructed between the tank and the HP pump,…Oh yeah what's that
canister on the frame between the tanks and the HP pump could that be My problem. Thank you guys for all the help especially 007 is that the tank selector valve you mentioned if not whare is that valve located…
Does “nothing” mean that the in-tanks pumps are running and you’re not getting fuel or the pumps aren’t turning on? Unfortunately, it is possible the new pump is wired backwards. That canister is the Dual Function Reservoir (DFR). It is a mechanical valve that moves from the fuel pressure provided by the in-tank pump. I agree with disconnecting the lines into the DFR then cycle the key to see if you are getting fuel.
 
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Old May 5, 2024 | 10:09 AM
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What does the DFR do can the truck run without it and where is the crossover valve located?
 
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Old May 5, 2024 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 88f351
What does the DFR do can the truck run without it and where is the crossover valve located?
Already answered in the two previous posts.
 
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