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Pulled threads out of block on headstud install???
Been doing this a long time and have never had this happen, never really seen it and cant recall a single thread across dozens of forums...
So my son picked up an E99 F250 for 3k a few months ago, not a bad looking truck, very nice interior with new seats and such. Had oil in the coolant so I told him easy fix, oil cooler.
Got the truck home, did the oil cooler and had lots of pressure in the degas bottle. Its studded, has "injectors", AD pump and such. I'm telling him 7.3's dont blow head gaskets, and they really dont for the most part, especially studded. We pulled the motor, me thinking someone must have jacked up a stud install or something.
Get the motor out and pull the head, crack right through the cylinder wall into the coolant jacket. I cant say I have ever seen this. I would guess it was filled with water at some point and froze, but even that does not make much sense.
None the less that motor is out, cant find a machine shop to sleeve it in a timely manner so he picked up a used 2000 motor for $1200 bucks.
We get that stripped down, washed and are swapping parts over. I am a one stud at a time kind of guy with a factory sealed block so we remove one bolt, install stud, TQ to factory 95#. Do all and then move to final TQ of 125# per ARP spec. He is half way done on one side and I hear a snap. Been doing this a long time and I cant recall ever hearing that noise. Threads pulled out of the block.
Anyone seen or experienced this? Time sert? Helicoil?
Seen a cracked cylinder like that on a 02 I bought. The guy I got it from said the engine went out so he was having somebody replace it with a good take out motor, but evidently it never made into the truck. The truck set for several years, halfway in the middle of pulling the engine. Basically it had no intake system other than the manifolds, radiator was pulled as well as most of the accessories, then it was abandoned. So I couldn't say if it got water in the block and froze or it was something pre existing. I did find ether in the cab so it's anyone's guess at that point. Have you dropped the pan to see if there's any clues to be found in the rotating assembly?
Seen a cracked cylinder like that on a 02 I bought. The guy I got it from said the engine went out so he was having somebody replace it with a good take out motor, but evidently it never made into the truck. The truck set for several years, halfway in the middle of pulling the engine. Basically it had no intake system other than the manifolds, radiator was pulled as well as most of the accessories, then it was abandoned. So I couldn't say if it got water in the block and froze or it was something pre existing. I did find ether in the cab so it's anyone's guess at that point. Have you dropped the pan to see if there's any clues to be found in the rotating assembly?
Honestly not that concerned about the motor with the cracked cylinder, we have it palatalized and will send it to get rebuilt at some point. Trying to figure out the stripped head bolt issue.
Honestly not that concerned about the motor with the cracked cylinder, we have it palatalized and will send it to get rebuilt at some point. Trying to figure out the stripped head bolt issue.
The only option I see there is a thread repair insert. Personally I'm not a huge fan of helicoils. I've used them and they do work for the most part but I wouldn't trust them in this application. The Timeserts seem popular and are sold specifically for the application but I don't have experience with them. Another brand is Keysert. Again haven't tried them but I do like the locking feature they've got. I would likely try contacting some of the engine machine shops you trust for recommendations on what they use and the track records they've got with them.
The only option I see there is a thread repair insert. Personally I'm not a huge fan of helicoils. I've used them and they do work for the most part but I wouldn't trust them in this application. The Timeserts seem popular and are sold specifically for the application but I don't have experience with them. Another brand is Keysert. Again haven't tried them but I do like the locking feature they've got. I would likely try contacting some of the engine machine shops you trust for recommendations on what they use and the track records they've got with them.
Did you find a timesert kit for 1/2-13 with long threads? Trying to find it myself.
Did you find a timesert kit for 1/2-13 with long threads? Trying to find it myself.
I see the 1/2-13 x 1" long inserts, but doesn't include the tap or instillation tool. The inserts that come in the kit are .650. Even their website doesn't offer an option to "upgrade" a kit to a size that you want. That's an upcharge and the deceptive *******s list a per piece price but won't sell less than 10 individual inserts. That is some shady chicken s**t tactics in my book, but I'll leave the soap box where it's at. Their prices match Amazon the only difference maybe in shipping charges. I didn't look that far into Time Sert's shipping fees.
I see the 1/2-13 x 1" long inserts, but doesn't include the tap or instillation tool. The inserts that come in the kit are .650. Even their website doesn't offer an option to "upgrade" a kit to a size that you want. That's an upcharge and the deceptive *******s list a per piece price but won't sell less than 10 individual inserts. That is some shady chicken s**t tactics in my book, but I'll leave the soap box where it's at. Their prices match Amazon the only difference maybe in shipping charges. I didn't look that far into Time Sert's shipping fees.
I found those as well...
Emailed timesert to see what the longest 1/2-13 they have. I read they will make what ever you need, you just have to order 1000 pieces... LOL
1.5's is the longest they list on their site. They were over $7 a piece though so not exactly a low buck option, but I would think that would be plenty.
Having been a long time Time Sert customer who used them to repair blown spark plugs on aluminum cylinder heads, they work great for that. But I think a helicoil may have greater holding power if you can find one that is as long as the threads that you are repairing. The helicoils are made out of some pretty strong stainless steel and I've seen helicoil cored nuts on those old air cooled VWs rust away to a round blob and they are still holding the muffler onto the exhaust port with only 5 or 6 threads with the helicoil part of it rust free.
Timesert guy got back to me again, basically suggesting counter boring the timesert into the block. Not a bad idea.
That got me thinking, I could do the same thing with a helicoil as well. Use the longest 1/2-13 3d helicoil and seating it at the bottom of the block hole...
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