Couple of Qs

1) Not sure if my 4x4 works currently. Can I put the truck up on all fours and then hit the button to make sure they turn?

2) I see Standard and Premium. Worth the extra to pony up to premium if needed? I think I saw Premiums at $90 a set.

3) To operate, I just turn both to LOCK and then get in truck and hit 4x4 to activate T-case?

4) Do they need to be drive in reverse for 10-20 feet to unlock them like automatics after 4x4 button is deactivated?

5) Reliability. Why are they advertised as stronger and more reliable than automatics?

6) I see a conversion kit listed. Does this have to do with the number of bolts holding the hub? I have 5, not 3.

7) Some websites state that when replacing factory auto hubs a spindle nut conversion kit is needed???

Thanks, I'm new at this. Any other tips, let me know. They sure as hell look a lot nicer than the blank hubs that stick out now.

 

YEAH,TO OPERATE IN 4X4 JUST TURN THEM TO LOCK AND THEN PLACE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL AND THEN ENGAGE THE TRANSFER CASE.DON'T HAVE TO ROLL THE VEHICLE BACK 20 FEET OR MORE LIKE THE OLD FORD 4X4'S.I BOUGHT MINE FROM NAPA AND THEY DID HAVE A CONVERSION KIT OR SOMETHING OF THAT SORT AS I REMEMBER.BUT WHEN YOU GO TO BUY A NEW SET THE VENDOR WOULD KNOW THAT AS THEY SELL THEM ALL THE TIME.I HAVE A 1990 FULL SIZE BRONCO AND HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER WITH THEM.THE HOUSEING OF THE HUB IS A 3 FLANGE .AND YOU USE THE STOCK COMPONENTS ON THE SPINDLE.

 

I got lucky on mine. I have a 90 bronco as well, and it HAD automatic hubs, well while it was still under warranty (i bought it used) the automatic hubs engaged and wouldnt disengage, sooo i took it back to the place that i got it, and by the next day i had manual hubs . But anyway that was off subject, lol.
Manual hubs are stronger and more reliable because when they are free then u know without a doubt, and when u get out and lock them in, u know without a doubt that they are locked. Automatic hubs u have to assume that they are working when u dive off into a deep mud hole only to find out that they arent working at all. IMO id change over to manual hubs whenever possible.

 

1) To test, put the t-case in 4WD, drive forward 10-20', then put the t-case in 2WD, drive forward another ~5', put it in Park/Neutral, set the E-brake, get under the truck, and try to turn the front driveshaft clockwise (as viewed from the rear). If it turns more than 90°, at least one of the hubs is blown.

2) Buy ANY name-brand manual hub locks with a lifetime warranty - they're all equally good. I use MileMarkers with the best lock body and the cheapest (black plastic) ****, and they were only $60 at O'Reilly. They've taken a LOT of abuse (including towing in Front-Wheel Drive) for over 150Kmi.

3) Yes.

4) Manuals can unlock instantly or within a few inches of reverse-direction driving. They really only need the strain taken off them so their springs can push the lock out. Same for engaging - within a couple of inches.

5) Autos are much more complex, but occupy the same space, so their parts are necessarily smaller & slightly weaker. It's not the actual lock mechanism that breaks; it's the automatic mechanism.

6 & 7) Auto hub locks with only 3 cap screws have a special spindle nut that's not compatible with manual locks. 5-screw locks use standard nuts. Click my signature and look in the Brakes & Hubs photo album.