We're getting a nice refund from the IRS, so I'll have the funds to start getting serious. One of the first things I need to do is replace all the fuel and brake lines. I've been looking around, there are tons of sources. But it's confusing AF. Primarily, the fuel lines have multiple part numbers and it isn't clear which set I need for my combo. Anybody have any tips on how I can make sure I order the right stuff? How many lines are there for a 2wd longbed with dual tanks? What about the selector valve? All I can find are ones for later trucks which have return lines. Rubber hose is easy enough to get locally.

I don't think brake lines are quite as cluttered with options. But I could still us some tips on getting it right.

 

Inline Tube and just call and talk to some one. https://www.inlinetube.com/

Tech support. https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/tech-support
1-800-385-9452
15066 Technology Dr
Shelby Twp, MI 48315

​​Just a quick look up of options. https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...rd&model=f-150

 

X 2 on inline tube. I just put their ss lines on my highboy. Very close to perfect fit.

 

Stainless is hard to work with.

NiCopp will get you there.

Edit, see post 3---pre cut lines might be available.

If not, see NiCopp.....

 

Inline is one of the venders I was looking at. For some reason, I always have an issue with calling companies to ask about stuff. Probably some sort of social disorder. But that is probably the best way to go. As soon as the money hits the bank.

 

I'm a huge fan of NiCopp. Just not feeling like rolling my own on this. At least, not until I need more fuel flow than the stock lines can handle.

 

ClassicTube also works, each company seems to sell "all", but specializes in certain models more than others.

Always use SS, even for Concours show cars... SS can be polished, but if you leave it semi-gloss it initially looks too
bright, but wait a few years and it looks JUST LIKE brand new Zinc plated OEM lines. SS never corrodes internally...

Okay, most have never "looked inside" OEM steel lines after 50 years. My fuel lines looked fairly good outside, but inside
rust and debris created partial blockages every 6-10 inches. (very long story inserted here... drill, 12ft stranded SS clothes line, PVC)

Most lines from these places seem to be 0.028 wall SS annealed tubing. Buying by the roll is the cheapest way, there
is a tool to straighten these has 5 or 7 rollers. I was too cheap, so spent 2 hrs hand straightening what I needed.

OH, another SURPRISE, upon receipt of the beautiful custom bent lines, ready to install... EXCEPT got to be kidding me?
Yep, perfect lines, then wadded it all up to fit in a box. Not quite as bad as it looks, but needs the extra bends removed.

The FUEL LINES are usually fairly simple, mostly straight, with a nice bender (not those in the auto store)
and some curved objects, like a metal hose reel, etc. you can push the tubing over the round items OR use the bender, bend, move
over 1/2" bend, again, again to simulate differing radius nessary.

For the brake lines its all about the area near the caliper or wheel cylinder, tight bends, goofy fittings, most the longer runs are easy.
I usually buy the brake lines and fab the fuel... "IF YOU HAVE" a mostly untouched truck the existing lines will tell you how much
effort / skill is required. You can start with the simple fuel and see how it goes. ClassicTube has a whole page of fittings for the
brakes. Generally each type of vehicle AND year uses a certain a style of fittings. Usually only 2 or 3 items, buy them in SS.

AND there are usually two ends to each line... one that's more difficult to get to than the other. Get the threads started by finger on
the DIFFICULT END first, do NOT tighten. Now get there other end started. SS is a real bitch and likes to cross-thread, many times
I have to "adjust" the tube near the attachment point to provide a "straight in" alignment. Use you hands with wood to push against.
Otherwise you're sure to kink the line.

Have fun.

 

The way I look at it is if they're cutting corners on their customer support then they're cutting corners on their products and they don't get my patronage.

 

As much as I don't want to roll my own, I think I may end up going that route. Primarily because I have three different vehicles needing brake and/or fuel lines. So the expense of the tools would be partly offset by the savings on the tubing. Aside from the F-250, I have the '59 T-Bird which will need all new lines for sure. And I'm considering new lines for my daily ('99 Mustang GT) to bypass the antilock rubbish. Plus, I could put in bigger fuel lines to handle my intended engine upgrades as well as adding a return line so I can use a bypass regulator. Not to mention the fact my OCD and overanalyzing tendencies would probably scream at every minor flaw in the pre-bent bits.

 

The nicu line is easy to bend and to flare. Do get a good quality flare set. I had a cheap one and it sucked. I bought a better quality one that does double flare and bubble flare and works really well. Sorry I don't remember the brand.

 

I went with in-line ,I mean every frikin contour is right on

 

titan and probably others makes a , it only does 1 size unfortunately- but its right every time , under the truck or on the bench it works wonderfully.
If you decide to roll your own that is.

 

I used the pre bent on a few vehicles, The long line from front to rear is turned 180 degrees in the box but following the instructions it straightens right out. I've bent my own for years but that kit is the was the way to go for me now.

 

SS as said is hard to bend is just 1 issue.
If you dont have a hydraulic double flaring, needed for brake lines, tool forget about flaring SS and cutting is a different story too.
The last is vary hard to get SS brake line to seal because the tubing is so hard the flare dose not crush to seal.

Me unless this is a show car / truck I would use copper / nickle or steel lines.
I have used a pre-bent steel brake line in the engine bay of a 70's AMC car and the fit was great.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

Read carefully, MOST was 0.028 wall "Stainless Steel Annealed"... believe that was true up to the 3/8" fuel line.
(SS uses a thiner wall, increasing the flow area over stock steel & never rust inside)

SS is a whole family of alloys, I'm not certain what "SS annealed" implies, but its vastly more bendable that the usual stuff.

If buying pre-bent, usually with fittings included, the surcharge for SS is not much in the over-all scheme of things. You do
not need any tools, just bolt it on.

SS and Steel can be a bitch to double flare, really need those hand hydraulic flare kit to do it right.
(little $10, 2-piece, auto store metal with various holes in it & a finger wing nut on the end isn't going to cut it)

Have fun.