Stainless lines question
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 500
From: Kenai
SS as said is hard to bend is just 1 issue.
If you dont have a hydraulic double flaring, needed for brake lines, tool forget about flaring SS and cutting is a different story too.
The last is vary hard to get SS brake line to seal because the tubing is so hard the flare dose not crush to seal.
Me unless this is a show car / truck I would use copper / nickle or steel lines.
I have used a pre-bent steel brake line in the engine bay of a 70's AMC car and the fit was great.
Just my .02
Dave ----
If you dont have a hydraulic double flaring, needed for brake lines, tool forget about flaring SS and cutting is a different story too.
The last is vary hard to get SS brake line to seal because the tubing is so hard the flare dose not crush to seal.
Me unless this is a show car / truck I would use copper / nickle or steel lines.
I have used a pre-bent steel brake line in the engine bay of a 70's AMC car and the fit was great.
Just my .02
Dave ----
I put a prebent SS line kit in my early bronco. It was very difficult to get some of the connections to seal. Rounded off many of the tube nuts and had to use vise grips to get them tight enough.
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Texas
When I suggested each line has two ends and to start with the difficult one... Meant the end with least access, especially visibility.
Its likely similar with new Steel lines. Need the last 2 inches of LINE to be perfectly aligned with the destination when you are NOT touching it.
Generally, up in a wheel well with your head wedged into the liner you can only see one "plane", got to get the "free hanging" line perfect.
It also has to be perfect in the plane you cannot see. These are best done first. Usually turning the nut backwards you can "feel"
when it drops on. We're talking 1 or 2 degrees here, grab the line back 6-8 inches and twist, push, pull till its perfect.
Yes, if you force the nut, will cross-thread or goes on with line pulling hard to one side and the seal doesn't happen.
After doing 10 cars, I got pretty good at it. Maybe practice with one end out in the open, any pressure on the line and you may be in trouble.
Nut should turn with little effort, if not back it off.
I imagine the original lines had the same issue. Slide the nut back and get the last 2 inches to float correctly aligned. Apply nut.
Its likely similar with new Steel lines. Need the last 2 inches of LINE to be perfectly aligned with the destination when you are NOT touching it.
Generally, up in a wheel well with your head wedged into the liner you can only see one "plane", got to get the "free hanging" line perfect.
It also has to be perfect in the plane you cannot see. These are best done first. Usually turning the nut backwards you can "feel"
when it drops on. We're talking 1 or 2 degrees here, grab the line back 6-8 inches and twist, push, pull till its perfect.
Yes, if you force the nut, will cross-thread or goes on with line pulling hard to one side and the seal doesn't happen.
After doing 10 cars, I got pretty good at it. Maybe practice with one end out in the open, any pressure on the line and you may be in trouble.
Nut should turn with little effort, if not back it off.
I imagine the original lines had the same issue. Slide the nut back and get the last 2 inches to float correctly aligned. Apply nut.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 364
Likes: 91
Stainless lines...or any other material, can be difficult to get the fittings to seal. Use these and sealing problems will be over.
https://www.zoro.com/parker-316-copp...a&gclsrc=3p.ds
https://www.zoro.com/parker-316-copp...a&gclsrc=3p.ds
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