When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m putting in a brake booster/master cylinder and proportioning valve combo on my 1970 f250 Highboy from Classic Performance Parts. 1979 axle swap to add disks to the front.
I need some assistance in how to go about wiring this brake light warning switch/sensor that comes off my new prop valve. From what I understand it illuminates a light on my dash if my brake pressure drops, right?
Can/should/do I wire this in to what I think is my existing low brake wiring?
Attached is a picture of the existing wiring that came off my old proportioning valve. Wiring to old proportioning valve Old prop valve
New CPP parts
CPP states: “Any two wire light socket will work. One wire goes to the accessory power and the other goes to the warning light.”
For what it’s worth, with the old system unhooked with no pressure in the brake system… I have no dummy lights on the dash, so I don’t even know if I know what I’m talking about and it’s not a low brake pressure warning deal, or my dash lights are burnt out🤷🏻♂️.
Thanks in advance for any help!
ok well I guess this is the indicator light. Guess I need to put a bulb in it first.
How can I go about wiring the single new wire off the CPP setup to this?
Found this in another post. Wiring is not my forte’ even tho this seems relatively simple. I’ll tinker with this after I get a bulb.
Copied from post in 2007:
“OK, here is what I found out. Inline Tube says not to try using the stock switch. They did say to locate the "hot" wire from the ignition on the original pigtail and splice it to the one lead going to the new P-valve. The new one from Inline Tube is self grounding and that is why you only have to use the one wire. I did it and my brake light is working just like it is suposed to. Brakes are now working on ALL FOUR WHEELS again!!! WOO HOO!!! [img]images/smilies2/biglaugh.gif[/img]“
You can also twist the two wires together, to connect to the single wire switch.
I believe doing it this way, keeps the prove-out side of the circuit functioning.
Even these old systems have a “test” function. Every time you turn the ignition switch to start, the light should temporarily momentarily illuminate. This test the bulb, so you can always know when the bulb is burned out.
The prove out, or proof out side of things is usually a small blade connector on the side of the ignition switch. It grounds to the dashboard in start.
Double check what type it is. I know the license lamp bulb is an odd one, but I seem to remember this one being an odd one as well.
Could be wrong, but hopefully there’s a bulb in there so you will know what it is.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
