I’m looking at buying a 1982 f-150 explorer with a 302. The owner is selling it for 3200 but it doesn’t run. The reason for that is the carburetor has been taken off and they have the original one and two others. I just want to know if this is a good deal and if these trucks are simple to fix.

 

It doesn't look rusty, that is good. But you have no way of knowing if the engine or transmission are any good. If they are advertising it, I would let it sit on the market for awhile and see if they lower the price. Then you can go in and lowball them. Even if they tell you the engine and trans are good, tell them there is no way to be sure, the price should reflect the possibility of replacing the engine and or the transmission.

 

It’s been up for sale for like 29 weeks and the price dropped from like 6k all the way down to 3200. They said it runs fine, but they suck at working on carbs. And according to marketplace the miles are just below 99,000 but I know these odometers are only 5 digit

 

They may be ready. Offer them 2000. And then go up from there, they should counter. You may end up at $2500. Just remember, this is a project, you do not need it. Go in with that attitude. Money is getting tighter and tighter here lately also. They may take it.

 

Especially since I’m in high school. But I do thehave funds and people who can help me fix it up for cheap.

 

I was thinking offer $1,500, then I read Franklin says $2,000. To me a non runner should be low balled. New crate engine and rebuilt trans and labor, if needed, would likely take you higher than the original price they listed.

 

29 weeks, I think you are in a good position to negotiate. Some people do not like doing that but get used to it, that is the way the world goes round.

 

New intake manifold new water pump new thermostat new long tube headers Added a fuel pressure regulator New distributor New spark plugs and plug wires
this was the list of new things that are on this truck

 

I am with DaveF treat the truck as a non running & driving truck needing a motor & transmission going in.
If it just needs a carb why are they not installing it? Pretty easy to remove a carb on a motor that is bad and say "it just needs a carb".

With that I dont see it as low balling, tell them till you can hear it run and take it for a test drive it may need a motor & trans and why that price was offered.
Other wise it looks like a nice clean truck and I would start at $1500 and see if they come up to the $2000 that I would not go over for a non running truck.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

First thing I'd suggest is stopping by your local Foot Locker or other store that sells shoes. Have yourself fitted for a quality pair of lightweight track shoes. Put on your new shoes and run from this truck as fast as possible, screaming for maximum effect.

If you've still got a moth/flame desire for this particular truck, go meet the seller. Ask Bubba (I'm sure that's his name) to lift up his beer belly so you can see his belt buckle. You will see a shiny faux bronze beauty confirming his membership in the "Rip out all that pollution crap" club. Please see post #8 in this thread for important considerations if purchasing a vehicle from a club member:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21171246

The workmanship I see in those pictures is disheartening. That engine has been de-smogged at least partially, but certainly not correctly. The big clue that tells me all work was accomplished without any functional understanding of engines:

The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system has been deleted. One of those shiny valve covers should have a hose leading to the intake manifold, just below the carb. The PCV system long predates any emissions devices, and extracts harmful fumes from the crankcase. Heck, my 1948 Jeep has such a system, long before legislators even knew how to spell emissions.

That fuel filter setup looks like a nightmare. The steel line snaking around the distributor is the stock feed line from the engine-driven pump. It threaded into a compact fuel filter which was attached directly to the carb. That cobbled arrangement I see looks like a "Before" picture in a fire department training film. Or maybe it could be Exhibit A in a lawsuit.

Those are just two examples of the dismal workmanship present. It's scary to think of the stuff you can't see.

The truck has factory AC, yet the compressor is missing. It would have been mounted where the ignition coil has been relocated. No idea why he stripped off that important part, even if the AC had quit working. He could have simply unplugged the connector.

Could this truck be brought back to life? Certainly. Within your budget or capabilities? Only you can decide that.

 

Unless it is full of bondo, the body looks very good. If the body is really that good,, it is a desirable quality on this truck. All that other stuff means nothing if you can't hear it run. I see they have a adapter on the intake. About $100 they could have bought a new China knock-off carb and had this truck running if that is all it needed. Why did they not buy a new carb for it?

I see trucks advertised all the time "all it needs is a starter" or "all it needs is a battery". Why don't they buy the starter or the battery and get it on the road and drive it? If they put all those new parts on this truck, why did they stop and want to sell it now?

 

Damn Karl, let me know when you start doing stand-up comedy. I'll sit front row...

It also appears as if the "parts cannon" has been loaded and fired on that engine. I see a new distributor cap (I'll bet rotor, too) and spark plug wires. Additionally, the o.p. says that they have the original carb and two others. So, what's so difficult about swapping carbs, especially if they have three of them?

I have a funny feeling there are other things going on, to which Karl alludes. It's distinctly possible that the carb isn't the real issue and they're trying to make it look like a simple fix. Of course, it could be a simple fix but, who knows? Dave F notes that the body does appear to be in great condition. Poke around under the truck and see what it looks like. But, I don't think much of non-running vehicles. You have no idea what the engine sounds like when running nor how the tranny shifts/drives. I don't think I'd start above $2K and wouldn't go past $2500, depending on the condition of the rest of the truck.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

 

Wear a poncho. My show combines elements of Sea World and Gallagher. On a related note, he used a watermelon in his act. I find durian elicits a stronger reaction from the crowd.



And in doing say, Bubba may have introduced a new fault into the equation. Let's say the original fault was fairly simple like a bad fuel pump, so no fuel was reaching the carb. He was more or less on the right track, thinking the problem was fuel related. Initially he guessed the carb was bad, but after three of those decided to gamble with the ignition system instead. Then he gets the new plug wires crossed or gets a new part bad out of the box. And he may as well start ripping out all these vacuum hoses while he's in there, right? Who needs all those? And so a minor issue turns the truck into a lawn ornament.

​​​​​​​If the body is nice, the truck may still be worth a gamble. You'll need to troubleshoot from square one instead of hoping for a quick fix. And be prepared for the worst, in case compression is shot.

 

I have been reading some of the comments and the guy is a marine and he said he doesn’t have the funds to work on it and he said he sucks at working on carbs, and in my county emissions is not a thing anymore. I’ll talk to a buddy of mine who has an 82 f100 with the 302 to see if the truck is worth it

 

The more I look at this truck the lower my offer goes. I said 1500 but anything over 1000 would be foolish IMHO. I was basing my bid on a straight rust free body and frame. The body appears ok but look at all the rust on the firewall, brake booster and master etc in the engine compartment. That does not bode well for the undercarriage. It's pretty easy to keep the body in good condition in Saltsylvania with washing and waxing but did anyone look under this rig. I wouldn't buy it without a compression test either. Remove the plugs check condition and a hot battery and see if it will turn to do a compression test. I see Bubba only uses the best quality tools with that Harbor Fright tool set on the seat. I'll admit I have one of those kits, but it's my emergency road set, you know the type you don't mind having stolen as another 29 bucks and it's replaced.